Again, wouldn't it be cheaper to piece the rebuild kit separatly? If you're on a set budget like you keep mentioning, you should piece togethet the gaskets to see how much money you might save.

The mishimoto radiator will work but you might need a adapter radiator hose so that it reaches the radiator inlet. Something like gate hose # 22382 might work. I don't recall how tight the squeeze was.

+1 for Scroggins, I just picked up my short block from them 3 days ago. They do excellent work.

Edit: If you want, I can look for the "new" oil pump that I got from the PO of my short block. I will have to look to see if I still have it.

 

Okay so new oil pump.. Conflicting on the pistons though. I'm going to stick with the stock ones, I don't plan over 300whp to keep my 6-speed in one piece. But I'll add main studs to the list, the Manley rods already have ARP bolts included.

Well I can get a gasket set from Jim Ellis Mazda, that would save me a lot since I already have a new timing set and I'd still have everything I need. The kit from them is $202.50, I would just have to buy the ACL bearings, spark plugs, and sealant separately. Thanks for the hose part number, I'll reference it if I end up needing it. I'll look into the condition of my oil pump and see if it needs to be replaced, if so I'll let you know!

 

Check priority mazda parts in Tyson VA - I usually find them to be cheaper.

 

Would you look at the condition of your condom before you used it again?

Get a new oil pump like the pro said. Please.

 

Use once then leave it off for the next go round. So just leave the oil pump off when you go to run the new motor.

 

Well, that was nice while it lasted.

 

I've debated whether or not to post anything. Your machine shop will tell you if you need to bore the block or can get by with a hone after they measure it. Then they will tell you how much of an overbore you will need, just like they will tell you if you need to turn the crankshaft down or not.

 

I just threw up in my mouth a little bit but jesus point taken on that

 

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I'm giddy with excitement for the obligatory melted piston photos!

 

Please video the first couple passes with boost in 5th or 6th gear. Some good pulls from 1k rpm on up. Dont puss out.

 

Don't forget to use these Supermiata HB ARP head studs to hold all that power in. Just torque to 90 ft-lbs like the instructions say

 

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you want 9.5:1 pistons for 93 and e85 mixed use.

pump gas only you want 8.6:1

11:1 will knock on pump gas with any respectable amount of boost, so running e85 is pretty mandatory.

have you ever seen any one run 11:1 pistons here??

who cares if you up the boost by 1-2 psi to compensate for the lower compression? boost is free, pitted/melted pistons from DET are not.

 

9:1 will give you NA8 stock power with plenty of room for timing and boost. 11:1 is ****** insanity

 

No, that's not the heavy duty one. What Supermiata is advertising is the Chrysler 2.2L 4cyl headstuds to be used in miata heads. Thicker diameter stud. Tested up to ludicrous boost according to their site.


I use the ones that you linked, but I'm low compression (8.6:1) and not pushing ludicrous boost. Had I known I'd have access to e85, I'd have gone with higher.

 

So, uh, does anyone want a set of 90-05 Miata ARP studs? I feel like I always buy expensive parts just before better options come about.

 

11 to 1 is for naturally aspirated engines or e85 only. 8.6 is used for 93 octane and big boost. 9.x will cause your timing map to be more detonation limited on 93.

 

It was mainly in jest. You should be fine

 

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