noticed I didn't upload any photo, sorry :rofl:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411322416

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411322416


obligatory:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411322416

Are the tips of the compressor vanes bent or is that just a stain?

no, it's only a little bit of oil, heritage of oil vapors recirculation. When I bought the oil catch can I plugged the hole.
PS: hopefully, there is not axial play.

I'm really thinking to buy another chinacharger and disassemble this one just to find out if any of the garrett journal rebuild kits are compatible with this one

They are.

why would you want to do that vs just buying a used journal garrett needing a rebuild?

I have nothing against chinachargers, but if I was sinking brand name money into a rebuild kit I'd be doing it to a brand name turbo and know that both will work with each other.

^truth. Particularly when you consider how cheap used Garretts are.

really?
That's a goooood thing
60$ rebuild kit
rebuilded journal chrubo potato
profit
:dealwithit:

I live in Italy, and all named "garrett" are really expensive!

example: new potato

I didn't find anything used on egay europe...

Yeah, that's a new spud, they are just as expensive here, and that's a ball bearing unit, I was talking about a journal bearing garrett, there a tons of those, and they are cheap both here and there.

I think you are right, but wat's the journal garrett with closest dimensions?
I really like how it's running the engine with this chrubo, it has a very high top end, and I prefer to mantain car as it is

I also did several sixth gear pulls with no issue at all, maybe I've found the perfect turbo for NB's? :jerkit:

Ebc done.

Tomorrow I will test the ALLOFIT button

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPqE...ature=youtu.be

it works!!!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411580328


For the test I unscrew the waste actuator down to 5.8 psi: the allofit button rise the pressure to 7.5 psi almost instantly
I laughed a lot while driving, other people may thought I was mad :giggle:

next step is to make it on a board and set it to 8 psi normally and 12 psi with "allofit switch" :hustler:

I forgot the source:


19.5 Hz test:


40 Hz test:

I forgot to post the allofit button test video:



news: I cleaned the car
Pics:

Attachment 184652

Attachment 184653

Attachment 184654

Attachment 184655

Attachment 184656


and of course a pic of one of my cats, this is Renato, with headlights on:

http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...pse1a8a6b8.jpg

Back to work to find a massive manifold leak

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330

This will be replaced with a 2.5" dynomax turbo muffler

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330


Here it is!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412602330

I have to shave all...

Yikes. to destroy a MLS gasket like that you had to have stretched a stud or two, or the surface wasn't straight to begin with.

both.

I'm thinking to shave and leave without gaskets, it shoud works
did exists inconel bolts+studs?

I was also advised against using a gasket there for that very reason. I've got mine bolted with hardware that cost me a total of under $20 and its been holding. I'd see signs of a leak on my manifold but nothing.

By the way I'd replace some of the clamps you have for your charge pipes. T-Bolt are the best but some of those really thin worm drives you have are not good at all for boost.

Also: ironically, "turbo" mufflers are not good for turbos. You want a large, straight through muffler. The turbo-labeled mufflers have chambers and bends inside which are not good for turbocharged vehicles.

really?
I've bought it because I think is pretty much a straight pipe with two chamber, there aren't restriction of any type, all internals are 2.5", and my exhaust is 2 1/4" (60mm)
All I want now is a silent exhaust, I can't drive with that loudness anymore...
Can it flow decently or is a very bad idea to put it on?
consider that I don't have any cat, resonator, nothing at all: only a 60mm straight pipe from the turbine to the muffler


source:

Attachment 184651

Can it flow decently? Sure. Is it optimal? Not even close. Can you get similar muffling with better performance? Yes.

The straight through Magnaflows are really what you want, that's why everyone here uses them. They're not as cheap as the "turbo" mufflers though.

^Paid infomercial.

Look, yes, it will be quiet. Yes, it will slightly degrade performance. No, it won't be terrible. There have been plenty of quiet factory turbocharged cars that use the same style of muffler. Removing them usually makes the car spool faster and make a bit more power. But it isn't the end of the world. Just don't complain if you lose 10-15whp.

^ yup

well, it's a price I can pay to get a silent muffler... Thank you for the advice!

shaved, back from the machine shop

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412970447

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412970447

my new toy :party:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412970447

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412970447

last but not least:
bammm, surprise!!!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412970447

internal diameter is now the same as the stock exhaust...
I have 2 choices
-remove the internal metal mesh
-remove the joint and weld a straight pipe

problems, problems everywhere
:vash:

Replace with part that doesn't suck. You do typically need some flex. You may reuse the flanges and just get a flex joint that doesn't suck.

There is nothing straight through about that muffler in the cutaway. In fact I don't even see how the gasses get from the inlet to the outlet.

Magic.

But seriously, that's a bad angle to see it but the ends of the tubes are open right through those internal bulkheads.

I can't get anything better in Italy, I temporarily leave it without internal mesh. If it resist, I call it a day. In the other case: rigid joint

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413051353

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413051353

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413051353

I want the car back!!!
:party:

blue line shows exhaust gas route- it passes around the middle inlet. I used one for a while, but yeah it makes a mess of exhaust gasses since it just dumps into the big can.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...4-24-13-pm-png

I will try it, if I loose too much hp on the butt dyno, I will search a better muffler
... or I will splice the exhaust in two 60mm pipes with two "turbo mufflers" :vash2:

but for now, magnaflow straight muffler :fawk:


some photos of the baby:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413144093

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413144093

and, for lurkers, the massive compressor wheel

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413144093

http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psce8f85ab.jpg

new oled display

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413876002

It's very cool: I don't need to delay the refresh like with the lcd one, and it's 100% visible from any condition (angolation, light/dark, etc)

aaand: turbo muffler installed

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413876252

As you all told me, I lose something on the butt dyno, expecially at high revs (over 6500)

I'm pretty curious to dyno the car with/without the muffler, to see how much I lost

Then dna said, "Let there be track"; and there was overheat.


only one lap before hit 100°C, but the car was great!
I have a LOT to learn on a track, but next time I need at least a 50mm radiator.

Will this be ok?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/400763045502?...84.m1423.l2649

o this one is better?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/131099412197?...84.m1423.l2649

the most important thing is the slim fans: I have 2.5" intake line

100*C (212*F) is not overheating. That is normal. If it gets to 230*F then you must slow down and cool off.

External oil coolers are a good idea as well as the bigger radiator. I don't have any opinions about the two radiators you listed other than the fact that having a fan shroud is a good thing.

Agreed- that's not hot. I like having an oil temp gauge. Should we assume you have taken all the preliminary steps to improving the stock cooling systems as posted on this site?

At the end of the second lap the temperature rises to 120°C (248*F)
I've only done a reroute and the radiator ducting, and on the road the maximum temperature I can see is 100°C

I really hope I can solve with a bigger core...
the oil cooler is really necessary? It's my daily car, I plan to go on track maximum 2-3 times a year

I like the 20hp sticker.

A larger core will help both in thermal capacity (more coolant volume takes longer to heat up) and in more surface area to aid in heat transfer.

An external oil cooler isn't a big deal to install if you've already done things like adding a reroute. They make a difference.

news: if I stop the engine at 100°C around half a litre exits from the coolant tank.
Cooked head gasket? Maybe is the overheat problem cause...

Compression test

Bad radiator cap?

Tomorrow I will see


It's a new 1.2 bar silicone cap

yesterday night the exhaust gases started to smell like burning oil when in cutoff from high revs -.-'
Tomorrow I will dyno the car on 4th gear, just to be sure that the power is at a safe level
and hopefully I will do a compression test on the warm engine

no compression test, I forgot that

disappointing results:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414345833

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414345833

236hp is good but the spool up seems a little slow for that size turbo.

236 hp is 183 rwhp, that's not good...
My exhaust flanges are actually 2" ID even if the exhaust ID is 60mm (close to 2.5")

Boost is at 8.7 psi, I'm thinking to raise the pressure to 10 psi, and with the allofit button 12 psi (not a big raise, but safe)

I hope to reach at least 200rwhp in this way

edit: dyno run was made with the 2.5" turbo muffler

I forgot about that. The small pipe and muffler explains the slow spool and stifled top end. I didn't realize they were computing engine cavallos and not wheel cavallos.

News:
I will upgrade the exhaust to a 3" without cat. converter.
I'm thinking to put a magnaflow 3" muffler, like this one

MagnaFlow Polished Stainless Steel Universal Exhaust Round Oval Muffler Silencer | eBay

For the flanges I will use v-bands, precisely 2 of them: one at the end of the downpipe and the other just before the muffler.

I've only one doubt: the design of the first part of the downpipe.

this style (hammer and welding skills will help, forgot the vband, I don't have enough space to fit it):
3" Guss V-Band Hosenrohr Flansch / Kit Garrett GT25 GT2860 GT2871 GT2876 GT3071 | eBay

or this style (way more complicated):

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414690442

After that I MUST have better response :vash2:

t25 flange

Flangia Scarico Downpipe Garrett GT25 GT28 5 bull acciaio gomito Turbo Turbina | eBay

and, if I piss off with the hammer:

Flangia Linea Scarico Downpipe Garrett GT25 GT28 5 bulloni acciaio gomito imbuto | eBay

wohohoho!!
maybe I found the problem... :loser:
I forgot to reinstall the compressor housing o-ring :party::party::party:

soooo...
60mm exhaust line with 2" restriction + turbo muffler + emanage blue (dunno the exact timing) + massive boost leak from compression housing + pretty hot engine = creepy spool and shitty power :facepalm:

hahaha I like this guy :laugh:

I just find out this "ghetto street/racing" muffler

FlowTech Warlock Racing Mufflers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Why not use a 50$ sr20 downpipe elbow? These were standard issue on no hit block kits and unlike the manifold hold together ok.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414756801

^:werd: 2" is a choke hold

that ^ ghetto muffler is what you just bought- all you need to do is cut a hole in the body adjacent to that entry pipe end. Then fab up a removable/swappable cover plate and insert for straight through flow. Do it :bigtu:

http://fe3miata.com/site/wp-content/...4-muff-mod.png

that's an idea... thanks!


With an air grinder the 2" flanges can quickly become a 2.5" ID, it will be the next step before the 3" exhaust.
about the ghetto muffler: I don't wanna do that way, my ideal muffler is a straight-through, free flowing but at the same time very quiet at idle and low load conditions. The closest seems to be the dynomax vt

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414866702

but I'm a little skeptical: when do I need a straight-through? when I'm not still on boost, but on WOT, expecially at low revs. On this situation the valve is still closed because there is no enough flow to open it... meh

on the other hand, this is a free-flowing muffler, but I'm scared of the cruise situation: too loud?
Dynomax 17220 Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded Mufflers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Which muffler do you use?

Ah, no, that's not correct. At that point you need some backpressure. You need a straight through muffler when you're flowing more air = on boost at higher RPM's.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414872975


I can think of no operating condition in which either a turbocharged or naturally-aspirated four-cycle gasoline engine will benefit from an increase in exhaust backpressure owing to a restrictive muffler.

This myth, so far as I am aware, was started many decades ago when it was observed that the installation of extremely oversized headers and exhaust systems caused a decrease in engine torque at low to mid RPM conditions. As exhaust pressure was observed to be lower in such designs than their predecessors, it was, at the time, concluded that this decrease in exhaust pressure was responsible for this decrease in torque.

This conclusion, however, failed to account for the fact that gas flow through the exhaust system is pulsed rather than continuous.

What happened is that by increasing exhaust diameter, exhaust gas velocity was decreased. This led to a reduction in the scavenging effect of an otherwise properly-tuned exhaust system, with a corresponding decrease in volumetric efficiency. Without the high-velocity pressure waves traveling through the system to suck the last of the fumes out of the cylinder at the top of the exhaust cycle, more exhaust gas remained in the cylinder, and cylinder fill during the intake cycle was therefore decreased.

So while it is true that an exhaust system which is optimized for maximum VE at low to mid RPM operation will exhibit higher backpressure at high RPM than one optimized for high RPM operation, this observed backpressure is a side-effect of the reduction in exhaust diameter, and an undesirable one at that. The most optimum muffler for any engine is the one which causes the least restriction to exhaust flow under all conditions while still providing an adequate level of sound reduction. The fact that, on the street, straight-through mufflers are more commonly found on turbocharged engines than naturally-aspirated or supercharged engine owes merely to the fact that, the turbocharger itself providing a high level of noise reduction, it is possible to run mufflers with little to no baffling while still achieving acceptable sound levels.