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I swapped the gr2860rs for a BW efr6258.....
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Do you remember the whistle?
Well, this is the result: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1438972912 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1438972912 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1438972912 Now I put an open diff with 4.1 ratio holy one wheel slip!! Almost every corner... I'm finding a 3.636 gears, but for now the car is usable, whell, it moves! |
did you set the lash incorrectly? or was that an un-opened diff?
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1255063)
did you set the lash incorrectly? or was that an un-opened diff?
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Do you have the diff protected form the heat of the new exhaust pipe? You are making a lot more heat than stock now and the heat destroys the fluid. How long since you had changed the rear diff fluid?
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1255103)
Do you have the diff protected form the heat of the new exhaust pipe? You are making a lot more heat than stock now and the heat destroys the fluid. How long since you had changed the rear diff fluid?
Well, actually no... The pipe is running very close to the diff The oil had around 1000 km when it started to whistle. This evening even this open diff started to whistle... fresh oil of course It lived three days |
Something isn't right. You're destroying parts that normally don't just fall apart for no reason on our cars.
There's people with 400whp on stock diff and no problems |
Maybe it can be the use of the car?
I live in the middle of a place that is very similar to a track. Almost every night is like a 15 minutes session, and the last two days I abused my mx5. Hell, I did several second gear launches... around 3 seconds wheelspin (not joking) |
lol
well that explains all the broken parts |
that's the second gear (without launch control) yesterday night, just an hour before the whistle :facepalm:
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BTW
10* btdc at the last row (sub 20 kPa) && 12:1 afr without fuel cut == backfire. A lot of backfire. I'm happy |
diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
I suggest the differential might last longer if it is cooler, regardless of abuse.
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Man, that looks like a really fun drive home from work, lol.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now. |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1255216)
that's the second gear (without launch control) yesterday night, just an hour before the whistle :facepalm:
YouTube |
Originally Posted by 90civichhb
(Post 1255301)
Man, that looks like a really fun drive home from work, lol.
I figured you just beat the crap out of your car when I noticed how much you broke so quickly. Looks like a fun time driving the car like that and just doing repairs when it breaks. This is probably one of the more enjoyable builds to follow right now. Maybe the crush sleeve is the cause of the broken diff(s)? from Weir Performance - Solid Pinion Spacer Kits Our solid pinion spacer kits are over 3X stronger than the typical o.e.m. crush sleeves. What does all this mean? What these parts do when correctly installed is set the distance between the inner and outer pinion bearings (bearing preload). At the same time, these parts also locate the pinion gear relative to the ring gear within the casing. So, why does the crush sleeve fail? It fails because it is too weak to resist deflection when high pinion loads are applied. This is why we often hear people say, “my ring and pinion finally blew up”. The failure is not instantaneous as it would be if the gears were over-powered. The failure happens over time, due to repeated hard driving. High pinion loads deflect the pinion gear over and over until the o.e.m. crush sleeve becomes “loose” and cannot properly maintain the bearing preload. This also allows the position of the pinion gear within the casing to move causing misalignment of the ring and pinion gears. Over time, this leads to “howling” gears followed by “ground up” gear teeth and eventually destroys the gears. Protect your ring and pinion with one of our high strength steel solid pinion spacer kits. All kits come with instructions and shim sets. |
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A little bit of aluminum heat wrap!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 The other brake lines are a little bit cooler because of the shielding a little inspection: still zero shaft play, even now after 11.000 km of rape https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 I also found another 3.636 ring&pinion, seems ok. I can have it next week. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439571310 |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439888291
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439888291 DW200 installed, the afr didn't changed with the rx8's at 100%, so the oem pump wasn't at his limit. I also installed the rc's 820cc. It is possible to idle at 14.7, but very rough.. 14.0 is fine Now it's time to tune all the map, again :fawk: |
Tuned for 11-11.8:1 and 250 kPa. I cannot go any further because of the 250 kPa map sensor. I can reach 220 kPa in first gear (spinning) :dealwithit:
Maximum duty cycle of the RC's: 56% :fawk: |
diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
Can you please try to find another inexpensive 3.636 ring and pinion for me? I need one too.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1258700)
Can you please try to find another inexpensive 3.636 ring and pinion for me? I need one too.
I can ask |
diy "turbo no hit block" '00 BP miata
Any luck on the 3.63?
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yes, 120 euro + shipment. Want?
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<p>Helluva deal, that.</p>
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1263405)
yes, 120 euro + shipment. Want?
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Greddy boost meter installed. Very cool
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I have gears from Emilia Romana. Grazie!
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Third r&p damaged. This time the second day after assembly.
Brand new bearings, oil seals, good oil and used but almost perfect r&p. fuuuu |
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1268063)
Third r&p damaged. This time the second day after assembly.
Brand new bearings, oil seals, good oil and used but almost perfect r&p. fuuuu I also have the Weir crush sleeve I bought a while back. My guess if anything is failing in your diff, it's the OEM crush sleeve moving, letting the gears walk and destroy themselves. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1268067)
Who is assembling the diff? Given the short life, I'm really thinking it's not setup correctly since you're the first person I've ever heard of going through 3 diffs this quickly!
I also have the Weir crush sleeve I bought a while back. My guess if anything is failing in your diff, it's the OEM crush sleeve moving, letting the gears walk and destroy themselves. about the weir's solid spacer: I asked them a couple of weeks ago (16 days actually) and never get the answer. They don't have an e-shop, just mail contacts Now I'm finding another r&p... I'm hopeless |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1268068)
The assembly was made by the local machine shop.. following the mazda specs
about the weir's solid spacer: I asked them a couple of weeks ago (16 days actually) and never get the answer. They don't have an e-shop, just mail contacts Now I'm finding another r&p... I'm hopeless I would question them setting up the diff since it's failed for you so soon. You can buy this paint they sell for checking the pattern on the gears, and check it yourself when you get the diff back to verify that the gears are meshing correctly. You'll need a 6-7" micrometer to measure the caps to check those. |
I just called weir, told him I blew up a diff and had a race in 2 weeks and I got the tracking number later that day.
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1268063)
Third r&p damaged. This time the second day after assembly.
Brand new bearings, oil seals, good oil and used but almost perfect r&p. fuuuu https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442771878 :noob: |
Originally Posted by Pepino
(Post 1268229)
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Nooooooo!
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The car was still waiting the fourth diff (on its way to home, I hope the adventure is finished)
the only mod that I've done is an ld bluetooth module for the ms2 and an egt sensor fron depo racing. Cool gauge: uses a stepper motor like the greddy one I choose to read the cilynder #4, as close as possible to the head https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446154733 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446154733 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446154733 The gauge, painted black (was silver) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446154733 couple of days ago: my car at the center, the one at the right is a BP supercharged (stock engine), at the left a stock B6 prepping for turbo build (stage2 clutch and lightweight flywheel), and the silver one is stock (for now :giggle:) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446154733 |
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Today I linearized the oem oil pressur gauge, because I've bought a 100psi pressure transducer a couple of mounths ago and now it's the time to install it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446406375 I choose the oem gauge because is cheap and easy to use. The concept is intuitive: the gauge has three terminals: 12v, GND and oil pressure. If you put the third terminal to gnd, the gauge indicates zero, and if you leave the terminal open, it indicate the maximum. Since the transducer is an active 5v sensor (like the mpx4250 map sensor) the simplest interface is to use a micro. A cheap one, like the attiny85 is way more than enough. A BC639 will put the terminal to gnd, but using pwm we have a resolution of 256 steps. Here is a video of me using a pot as an analog input: A led is lit up when the pressure is under 1 bar (14.5 psi) o whatever pressure you want. what I used: stripboard, an attiny85, a 78L05 (or L7805), a BC639 or equivalent, a 220 and 1k 1/4W resistor,and a led. Tomorrow some updates |
Badass.
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it goes to high for a couple of milliseconds when I turn the key to off position because I have an apexi turbo timer |
The differential is whistling. Again.
It's like the fifth in a row, this time it lasted 16 days Any advice? I think I have two choices: -overbuild with a stronger differential but without the ppf -lower the pressure -change the turbine with something bigger (less torque) -sell the car Since option #2 is not possible what would you do? |
Find out what you are doing wrong that is destroying the diffs.
And it's not just sheer torque. Bundy just posted about how his is still fine and he blew up 15 transmissions from pure torque and super hard track use, so I highly doubt your failures are from just too much power. Either something is mis-aligned, or they keep getting put together wrong (if even taken apart, that is), or bad fluid, or something. |
Excessive wheel hop?
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802
(Post 1285164)
Excessive wheel hop?
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I'm guessing incorrectly set tolerances or it's angled too much or janky fluid.
Just guesses Shock loading will violently shear things, not "wear it out" like OP seems to be experiencing |
Agreed. Something isn't right here. It's not just power or whatever.
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I'm honestly demotivated.
I done what I could, but the differential assembly isn't a thing that I want made myself, and this time I want to be sure is the last one. What if I give the differential to another machine shop and it brokes again? I don't want this happen. The only thing that I can do is unbolt the old unit and put in another one. It's pretty much straightforward, I don't believe that is my fault... I even torqued everything to mazda specs... The last time I reinstalled the oem suspensions, trying to exclude even the uncorrect shafts angle (it was too low) I honestly don't know where to smash my skull :sad2: |
oh, and by the way, holding the brake in sixth gear I can reach 7psi (0.5 bar) since 2500 rpm and 21 psi (1.5 bar) since 3000 rpm.
Yeah, yesterday I was bored during a 400km trip |
Can't blame you there -- this would be seriously demotivating.
Would you please summarize your diff adventures into one post? Lots of info spread over several pages. Tell us what diffs broke, when, and how you fixed/replaced them. |
first: mazda oem unit 3.636 + torsen, never opened.
Good until I tuned to 21 psi and it started to whistle. (from here I still ran 21 psi) second: mazda oem 4.2 open, never opened. Two days and the left shaft escaped about 10mm out from the diff, letting the oil exit from the seal: wasted the third day. It was installed perfectly, I don't know why happened. Bought new elastic rings for the shafts, oem of course. Raised the car with the oem suspension to exclude the excessive shaft angle. Third: my first case with torsen, new r&p, new bearings, new seals and new crush sleeve. One day after installation started to whistle. Fourth: same differential, same case, just adjusted the tolerances (local machine shop) lasted around six hours and started to whistle again Fifth: same case, new r&p. The bearings had less than 250 km, we leaved them. This time I sent the case to another machine shop far away (very good reputation here). It lasted 16 days. Now it's whistling again. This saturday I will dyno on a mustang dyno, just to see how much torque I'm putting down. Sure enough I'm under 300hp, but the torque is real |
Third, 4th and 5th COULD be errors in adjustments or parts. Second lost its oil, so it makes sense why it went pop. First diff... how was it a 3.636 but never opened?
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot. But a Getrag upgrade is balleur. |
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1285272)
First diff... how was it a 3.636 but never opened?
I agree. Getrag |
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1285272)
Third, 4th and 5th COULD be errors in adjustments or parts. Second lost its oil, so it makes sense why it went pop. First diff... how was it a 3.636 but never opened?
I think it's worth a try to snag a low-ish mile, OEM Torsen that's truly never been opened and give it another shot. But a Getrag upgrade is balleur. |
Did you put it together with new bearings and a new "distance piece" or "crush sleeve"? If the bearings are worn it could make the diff not keep its tolerances.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1285474)
Did you put it together with new bearings and a new "distance piece" or "crush sleeve"? If the bearings are worn it could make the diff not keep its tolerances.
I want to try the last time. Oem 4.1 open diff with just 40.000 km on it. It's the less used one I found It seems to be in great shape: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448725517 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448725517 |
Are you taking the correct measurement on the end caps with a 7-8inch micrometer? Then setting your backlash or are you setting your backlash and then taking the cross measurement?
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Originally Posted by 90civichhb
(Post 1287679)
Are you taking the correct measurement on the end caps with a 7-8inch micrometer? Then setting your backlash or are you setting your backlash and then taking the cross measurement?
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That "1 bar" sensor it's actually the mpx4250 (0-250 kPa) , not the 0-110 kPa one |
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