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ooh, nice :likecat:
you'll be able to break so many more things now :giggle: |
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Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
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22 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1325315)
ooh, nice :likecat:
you'll be able to break so many more things now :giggle:
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1325336)
You going to build your own DP or wait for the TSE one?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 these are the water ports https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 And... done! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461271687 The only way to install the downpipe is from the upside, removing the rod under the gearbox. That's the only thing required to install it, after that it can be reinstalled
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1325370)
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
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hahaha this guy doesnt wait
he will have broken and rebuilt his 4 times by the time some of the other people will just be receiving theirs |
Nice! :drool:
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Can I send you the springs or something?
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Kitty awarded for TSE trubo kit pron.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1325370)
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping. A good shock will be good on the street and track. A 450/300 rate with Bilstein "Hard S" valving was the best combination I have used for controlled comfort and some track driving on treaded tires. You only need stronger springs with gummy slicks. I wouldn't steer you wrong. And it will work fine at stock height.
I run 700/400 spring rates on my car, and I seriously would be OK daily driving it. If you want a truly sweet street ride while still having good track performance, going one step softer to 650 or 600 front and 350 rear would likely be a very very nice setup. I will not do a flat rate shock setup again now that I've seen how effective adjustable shocks can be in terms of comfort and performance. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1325370)
Adjustable shocks for for people with incorrect spring rates and bad shock damping.
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The people I have encountered with adjustable shocks on a street car always have too little spring and they end up overcompensating with damping which leads to jacking down. Or they have too much spring for the car to be comfortable on the street and dialing the adjustable rate down only makes the car uncontrolled on rough pavement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass. It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable. Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement. |
Just finished to tune just the ve table and wow... it's... wow
I thought my car was fast but, now... well it's another thing
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1325875)
The people I have encountered with adjustable shocks on a street car always have too little spring and they end up overcompensating with damping which leads to jacking down. Or they have too much spring for the car to be comfortable on the street and dialing the adjustable rate down only makes the car uncontrolled on rough pavement.
Ideally, one would have shocks and springs set up perfectly for the particular track, or adjustability to fine tune for the track surfaces (Xidas). But if he is looking at cheapo Chinese adjustables (MaXpeedingRods) or adjustable Teins set up for something that isn't a Miata (392 Front/336 Rear for $830) I would say he will be very unhappy and should either save for Xidas or if the budget won't allow, go budget Bilstein. I don't know if you have ever driven in Italy, but many roads there make rural roads in south Georgia seem smooth as glass. It was a generalization about cheap adjustables and poorly matched springs commonly sold on them and not expensive, properly matched racing adjustables tailored specifically to fine tune for track duty (which the OP was not discussing). He is daily driving on street tires and poor roads where he needs big ground clearance and driving to the track on the same tires. I would say save for the Xidas with helper springs, but if you can't do it, go budget Bilstein instead of Chinese adjustable. Excuse my over-generalization that was not intended to cover $2000+ adjustable racing shocks, but rather the under $900 type the OP was particularly discussing purchasing. I should have been more succinct in my statement. Do you think that the tein flex have a wrong spring ratio for the miata? |
2 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461439475
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461439475 and this without tune at all, and a big pressure drop at 5000 |
why doesnt the virtual dyno boost match the log?
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if you look veeery close you can see the red line drop from 240kpa to 205kpa I don't know how to rescale the boost graph, it never worked with me
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Yes, the Tein has bad spring rates for a Miata. There should be a greater difference between front and rear. That setup would likely generate significant oversteer with most sway bar combinations. Unless your trunk has a spare engine block in it they would be bad.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1326139)
Yes, the Tein has bad spring rates for a Miata. There should be a greater difference between front and rear. That setup would likely generate significant oversteer with most sway bar combinations. Unless your trunk has a spare engine block in it they would be bad.
Tonight I was tuning open loop ebc and just the ve table, this is the result: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461451124 red is the very first log There are three possibilites: -the tyres are slipping in 4th -the clutch is gone -I'm really making 466hp at 21psi :giggle: I just ordered a new clutch, hoping it's its fault :burncash: |
probably clutch slipping
you're making proper power now :likecat: congrats man |
very nice work sir. I think you're the first person to actually pour the boost to a TSE kit, no?
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well, yes I think
you know, it's the first time I'm more scared than happy for a power increase, and it's have potential... now the boost duty is at 40% :giggle: |
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double post... Why
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461530112
Will that hose rip off when the engine torques under load? |
nope, it is flexible enough, I mean, it's working so far
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1326292)
nope, it is flexible enough, I mean, it's working so far
For the ic coupler, we are using a 60deg bend that fires straight down next to the ac compressor, but yours works too. It's definitely tight in there but doable. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1326205)
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...-thread-78451/
Summit Racing Coil-Over Springs - 7.000 in. Coil-Over Spring Length (in) - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing 2-1/2" I.D. x 7" Coil-over Springs On Sale at Pit Stop USA 2-1/2" I.D. x 8" Coil-over Springs On Sale at Pit Stop USA |
Oh, I forgot to say, since I'm using the internal 250 kPa map sensor I've turn the boost down to 200kPa because stayin at 245 makes it hit boost cut with the colder air.
Well, I turned down to 180kPa and it's creeping at 250+ after 6000rpm anyway, what the...? I've got the medium boost actuator set to 8 turns of preload, the manual says it's around 10psi, so ok, it's 10 psi, but the creep is real. Anyone experienced this? I cannot drive on track with that kind of power, it's too much Oh, a 4 bar map sensor is on the to-do list:eggplant: |
yep, the cause of the creep was just... me
the preload was 14 turns, instead of maximum of 7, the wastegate was simply... close :noob: oh, and I can reach 18psi at 3200rpm :jerkit: |
14 half turns :)
My instinctive logic told me pulling out the spring, by preloading, would 'help' the boost-preassure push open the wastegate. your kind of pulling it towards opening the wastegate  pic from turbosmart.com but looking at the physics: Newtons III. law F= Pressure * Area = Hooks Law = konstant * x (spring displacement) increasing preload = increasing x ==> must leads to an increase in Pressure to overcome equilibrium qed |
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Originally Posted by omnia
(Post 1326519)
14 half turns :)
My instinctive logic told me pulling out the spring, by preloading, would 'help' the boost-preassure push open the wastegate. your kind of pulling it towards opening the wastegate pic from turbosmart.com but looking at the physics: Newtons III. law F= Pressure * Area = Hooks Law = konstant * x (spring displacement) increasing preload = increasing x ==> must leads to an increase in Pressure to overcome equilibrium qed https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461610950 |
I have been thinking about putting my new breather can in that same location.
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just here giving cats.
:inout: |
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1326614)
I have been thinking about putting my new breather can in that same location.
Yesterday I decided 220 kpa was not enough for... well scare me again, so I've made my first pcb using eagle :party: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461936099 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461936099 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461936099 I'm using the 12v supply for the wideband, analog GND for reference and the external map pin for the reverant ms2, oh and it's a 400kPa sensor :eek5: tomorrow I will find out what 260 kPa seems like on a efr 6758 :giggle: |
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Today I didn't had time to install the 4 bar map sensor, but I tuned ve table for lpg on wastegate and it's making over 200whp, I'm very happy with the result
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462053422 |
Why didn't you just swap the on board sensor out for the 3.5bar drop in one for like $10?
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this 4 bar sensor is a drop in replacement for the 2.5 bar I have, but I don't know if I can change the values for the internal one
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1327663)
so I've made my first pcb using eagle :party:
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LPG, like, propane? wat?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1328245)
LPG, like, propane? wat?
I think is the fastest lpg miata in sardinia :giggle: |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1328167)
this 4 bar sensor is a drop in replacement for the 2.5 bar I have, but I don't know if I can change the values for the internal one
Let's change it :cool: |
Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1328174)
I've been trying to teach myself to use eagle lately and it has made me a sad panda.
On day to day basis I use Cadence Allegro, which is quite expensive. For personal use and hobby use I prefer to use KiCAD and I advise everybody to do the same. Having said that: KiCAD is not perfect and completely logical either, but better than EAGLE in my opinion.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1328245)
LPG, like, propane? wat?
Especially here in the Netherlands LPG is much cheaper per litre compared to petrol. Downside is the yearly fixed tax, which is much higher for LPG cars: so you have to do at least ~15.000 km/year to make up for the difference. Not completely sure about the prices in Italy, but I know it is very popular there as well. DNA54: how are your exhaust valves and seats doing when driving on LPG? I know the later Mazda MZR engines and alike do not like LPG at all and wear out their exhaust valves within 100.000km when driven hard. The later BP-4W engine with the fixed lifters does not make for a great LPG engine is my fear. Do you run some valve saving liquid spray setup? |
Originally Posted by DaWaN
(Post 1328415)
Yes, there is no default EDA tool which everybody likes. Me being an EE spending quite a lot of my time designing PCBs I have tried many of the available tools and there is not a single one that fully satisfies me.
On day to day basis I use Cadence Allegro, which is quite expensive. For personal use and hobby use I prefer to use KiCAD and I advise everybody to do the same. Having said that: KiCAD is not perfect and completely logical either, but better than EAGLE in my opinion. Yes, it is a very common fuel in Italy, Netherlands and other European countries. It is Liquid Propane Gas. Especially here in the Netherlands LPG is much cheaper per litre compared to petrol. Downside is the yearly fixed tax, which is much higher for LPG cars: so you have to do at least ~15.000 km/year to make up for the difference. Not completely sure about the prices in Italy, but I know it is very popular there as well. DNA54: how are your exhaust valves and seats doing when driving on LPG? I know the later Mazda MZR engines and alike do not like LPG at all and wear out their exhaust valves within 100.000km when driven hard. The later BP-4W engine with the fixed lifters does not make for a great LPG engine is my fear. Do you run some valve saving liquid spray setup? Well, a little update: yesterday I accidentaly shorted the 5V rail to gnd and the ecu is gone, time for a new one... but all my budget is around 100 euros, so the car has to be stopped for a while! |
Send it in for a fix?
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Solved! It was the voltage regulator, at first I thought it was something worst
Swapped for a LM1575-5.0 and it's back on road! I also used the external 4-bar map No luck for the medium boost actuator... maximum boost I can reach is 235 kPa after 6000 rpm, ebc solenoid closed. I need the high boost actuator asap :noes: |
I'm beginning to be scared every pull because of the stock oil pump and engine damper...
Because I have to pull the engine to change it, I think I will change the supertech rings for the wiseco and rebalance the crankshaft/flywheel too, and finally raise the rev limiter to 8000 :vash2: |
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I went to a trackday at Modena, never run such a big track, the straight ends at around 200 kph (with a different driver, even more :giggle:)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464940309 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464940309 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1464940309 oh, and there was around 20 fd's :noes: I'm torn on selling the miata to buy one of these or finish the project... :cry: http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psjp8soddr.jpg Attachment 183720 |
After some research I find out that my 350hp intercooler is causing a huge drop after 5k rpm, like 55 kPa at full boost!
Since I really want to buy an fd3s I ordered another chinese ic, a 450hp one and a set of slx coils This is the third time I change the toyota cops, I can run them for around 3000km before they start to missfire and I have to gap the spark plugs to 0.6mm |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1338809)
After some research I find out that my 350hp intercooler is causing a huge drop after 5k rpm, like 55 kPa at full boost!
Since I really want to buy an fd3s I ordered another chinese ic, a 450hp one and a set of slx coils This is the third time I change the toyota cops, I can run them for around 3000km before they start to missfire and I have to gap the spark plugs to 0.6mm |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466713266
IC is arrived, really bigger, not double the size of the core, but almost there Now I'm struggled with the air conditioning... Has anyone installed a big intercooler keeping the a/c? |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1340802)
IC is arrived, really bigger, not double the size of the core, but almost there Now I'm struggled with the air conditioning... Has anyone installed a big intercooler keeping the a/c? |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1340839)
I ran a 20x12x3 core IC on my 99 up front. It fit with a/c, but it blocked a ton of airflow so even though it "worked", the car's cooling for the radiator took a huge hit because of it. I ended up moving the IC up some to get more clean air to the radiator, pulling the a/c condenser, and putting the a/c condenser in the trunk so that I could still have a/c, while not killing my air or coolant temps in the process. There is no easy button to have it all, you stack 3 big heat exchangers up front and try to make them share the airflow, and effectiveness suffers.
I mean, how did you move the condenser? Any pics of the work? Here in sardinia the a/c is a must, expecially since is my daily car, so I'm opened to all the solutions |
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1340843)
Really?
I mean, how did you move the condenser? Any pics of the work? Here in sardinia the a/c is a must, expecially since is my daily car, so I'm opened to all the solutions Few pics: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466723025 |
Wow.. it's really a LOT of work
Since I've got the lpg tank and a big muffler my solution will probably be something like modify the condenser to put the ic really close to it and ducting... maybe it's a good solution to separate the flow in the mouth , up to the radiator over the ic, and down to the ic itself oh and a new extractor to create a low pressure area after the radiator I hope it works, will update soon |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1340863)
Wow.. it's really a LOT of work
Since I've got the lpg tank and a big muffler my solution will probably be something like modify the condenser to put the ic really close to it and ducting... maybe it's a good solution to separate the flow in the mouth , up to the radiator over the ic, and down to the ic itself oh and a new extractor to create a low pressure area after the radiator I hope it works, will update soon You can see in this pic that air can go under and around my IC, so that clean air can get to the radiator. Ducting of course to force that air to the radiator. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466727192 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466727192 |
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Update:
I had to move the condenser, because this ic have the same width of the radiator, I bent the lower pipe too, and removed the condenser mount. Now there is enough space to fit it very close to the a/c radiator https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 now that's "clean" https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466937668 that's just to see if the condenser interferes with something, and the answer is no :party: Now it's time to do the mounts for the condenser, p/s radiator and ic |
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double post
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Now that's almost finished, last thing is to finish the ducting and mount the undertray
new position for the ps radiator http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...psus8w7f51.jpg and for the horn Attachment 183712 I'm starting from the oem ducting this time Attachment 183713 Attachment 183714 Attachment 183715 Attachment 183716 not pretty to see, but functional. After the undertray, time for a new clutch |
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From now on the car is for sale in Italy, if I didn't found a buyer it will be part out, so expect some pretty stuff on the classifields :giggle:
Oh, thanks to curly I have now the last piece needed to finish the build: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467229826 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467229826 billet gears for vvt and a donor vvt pump, gears are in good shape Now I can build the engine again to install billet oil pump, wiseco rings (supertech ones burns oil) and a new 6 pluck clutch! Oh, and the intercooler ducting is complete, I can tune again with the 450hp core :party: |
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The ducting is awesome! I'm running with mat 15 over ambient (35+ celsius) and coolant 85 cruising and 95 driving hard... never be so cold, even this winter!
Only big difference is the undertray, it's the first time I installed one. C6 coils are arrived with pigtails, just bought the spark wires too https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467398883 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467398883 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467398883 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467398883 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467398883 |
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