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There you have it folks. This is why I love this forum.
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With similar intentions, I just made a turn down that I swapped out at the flange right behind the diff. Mine was a 3-bolt, but a v-band would be ideal. Turn downs work wonders for reducing measurable sound track side and the vband would allow "tuning" via direction. You could also include a bullet type muffler for more sound reduction.
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It really sounds like the op needs the MONSTER magnaflow that half this site runs. Anyone got the part number?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1180382)
It really sounds like the op needs the MONSTER magnaflow that half this site runs. Anyone got the part number?
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thank you guys for all the info!
About the backpressure: (take me as a noob, I began to learn about turbocharged engines this year) I said that the situation that requires less back pressure is wot+low revs+no boost (yet) because if a backpressure is present, the difference between manifold pressure and downpipe pressure (the only thing that gives energy to the compressor wheel) drops, and the rpm boost threshold goes up. This backpressure also increases the turbo lag at all rpms. So the dynomax VT muffler is not ideal for me, expecially because my manifold is made in stainless (quick heat transfer) and is long enough to lose quickly heat: heat drop across manifold==>less pressure. Same story: I need a straight-thru muffler... Please, feel free to correct me if my english is incorrect, I prefer to not be misunderstood... |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1180567)
Magnaflow 12589.
now I have a full list of what I need to build a 3" v-band straight-thru exhaust line :brain: |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 1180255)
With similar intentions, I just made a turn down that I swapped out at the flange right behind the diff. Mine was a 3-bolt, but a v-band would be ideal. Turn downs work wonders for reducing measurable sound track side and the vband would allow "tuning" via direction. You could also include a bullet type muffler for more sound reduction.
is this one what you are meaning? JEGS Performance Products 30292 JEGS Flowpack Bullet Mufflers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS |
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Not two- you just swap it out at the track (or at home) with a single vband connection as pictured.
Yes- but that one is probably too long. This: Dynomax 24249 Dynomax Race Bullet Mufflers - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415197155 |
My .02: turn downs are stupid loud. Like, unless you're deaf or love to wake the dead, I wouldn't run one. Bullet mufflers are not really good at "muffling" either, they just soften the raspiness. For a proper muffler you want lots of packing. For a proper muffler you want no bottlenecks. The Magnaflow we keep talking about does both of those things, which is why we love them so much. You get maximum sound redux with minimum backpressure. win/win. No need to really swap anything or do anything. Weld one on and never worry about it again.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1180908)
My .02: turn downs are stupid loud. Like, unless you're deaf or love to wake the dead, I wouldn't run one. Bullet mufflers are not really good at "muffling" either, they just soften the raspiness. For a proper muffler you want lots of packing. For a proper muffler you want no bottlenecks. The Magnaflow we keep talking about does both of those things, which is why we love them so much. You get maximum sound redux with minimum backpressure. win/win. No need to really swap anything or do anything. Weld one on and never worry about it again.
All this business of swapping mufflers is just added complexity for the sake of loudness. The Magnaflow mufflers referred to above (such as 12589) consist of a perforated straight tube surrounded by packing material. No baffles, no louvers. If you look into one end, it's like you're staring at Hustler's anus- just a big, gaping hole that you can see clear through to the other end of. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415201761 Such a muffler is no more restrictive than a cherry-bomb / bullet style muffler, merely quieter. |
but but but joe that extra 10 pounds positioned in a favorable place is going to have such a huge effect on my lap times.
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In the interest of cheap- he could have what he wants (quiet daily, loud track) since he already has both the track/bullet muffler and the quiet street muffler. All for the cost of a flange. I would debate the bullet muffler and turn down dropping sound levels as I have used them successfully on countless race cars. Of course I wear ear protection on track and assume others would also. Of course my track cars have always been separate from my street cars- and my street car runs a giant magnaflow for all the reasons cited. And this was coming from a turbo muffler. But then there's this:
Originally Posted by dvcn
(Post 939552)
A friend with a 400whp S2k unbolted his straight through Magnaflow while on the dyno and picked up 21whp. I didn't believe it until I removed my muffler. Significantly more power everywhere, spool happens sooner and less abruptly so the tires don't get shocked as badly.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 1180977)
And that's not the first time I've read or seen this on boosted cars. Though I never got around to testing it myself, it was on my list. In the end my general feeling is that driver is always leaving more on the table than something nominal like a muffler change, even if it's not that much work. And if you're not competing what's the point?
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magnaflow 12589 ordered, as v-band flanges, s13 downpipe, flex joint, spill free funnel and things.. many other things.
Today I've done a compression test: warm engine, new compression tester (gauge style), very low battery. c1: 75 psi c2: 74 psi c3: 70 psi c4: 72 psi but... the car is running great, and standard values are around 135+ I don't get it... really! bent rods? |
Possible causes of low numbers on a compression test:
1- Battery not fully charged. 2- Throttle not open during test. 3- Low compression. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1182398)
Possible causes of low numbers on a compression test:
1- Battery not fully charged. 2- Throttle not open during test. 3- Low compression. I'm running most of time on LPG with low boost and low revs, but I'm thinking about a little bit of valve leak. (cranking was slow even with a second car) Sure the compression is low, but 85 psi is toooo low... |
You left out number two. Throttle must be held wide open.
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I also left out #4, which was "Compression gauge inaccurate / malfunctioning."
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Consistency between cylinders is the most important attribute when compression testing anyway.
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enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it started on the very first try! :party:
bung for the gm iat sensor https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 3" flex joint https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 :dealwithit: contemplating the massive difference between 2.5" and 3" https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416236066 first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome! (I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet) http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/...ps04ccaddc.png |
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Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1183521)
enhanced ms2 is an awesome product: very intuitive, and most of all it starte
first log: no changes at all, only starting map. Awesome! (I didn't find the compressor o-ring yet) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416239944 Going for the Enhanced MS2 vs the Basic MS2 was also a worthy upgrade in my opinion. |
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the car is running very well
I did some refinement, expecially for the low revs and medium loads Oh, and I pulled a lot of fuel in boost (from under 10 to 11.9) strange thing: with 18° advance some knock is present.. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416351649 edit: it's a 5th gear pull |
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another 5th gear pull: this time with the compressor sealed
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416695001 Needs more tune at low loads, but it's running fine. With this pull I saw 900°C at the manifold, it's the reason of the 11:1 but..... I can't use launch control and flat shift!!:crx: simply.. doesn't work! I wired three switches to ground for: table switch, launch and valet limiter (my mom drives my car too):blah: The table switch works, valet works too, but the launch don't start at all. The green light appears when I switch to gnd, and stays on even when I open the switch, but nothing else is happening. The launch+flatshift is active, but I think the ms don't recognize the clutch switch. I tried to close the contacts of the clutch connector manually, but nothing changed (the clutch switch is in good condition) What's wrong?!?!? I'm sure is a minor thing, but I can't find out alone :hustler: |
To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.
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Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184679)
Does the CLUTCH indicator turn green when you depress the clutch? How about the NEUTRAL indicator when you the gearbox is in neutral?
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I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).
You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184687)
I think you have one of the NB cars that has a single wire for both clutch and neutral, and only goes to 1V (brown/white if I remember correctly).
You will need to cut the wire that goes to pin 1V and insert it into 3I instead. you intend to splice the br/W from 1V together with the 3I, right? I'm doing it right now |
Correct.
Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1184719)
Correct.
Also, If I'm right, there should be no wire in your harness on 3I. So you will need to remove a wire/pin from something unused and put it in 3I and then splice it to 1V. Now the clutch indicator is always on, even if the clutch connector is unplugged. When I enable the L.C. switch the launch is active, but the clutch switch is always on, so I cannot use it
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1184636)
To get my clutch switch to work right I had to disconnect the neutral switch on the tranny.
Can you tell me which is the plug on the gearbox? I can check it now |
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I did it from inside, it's dark and I don't have a garage
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 new coilover kit from a friend of mine https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 coudn't find a new compressor o-ring, so: 300°C silicone sealant :party: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 aaand reinforced the manifold welds https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 after that: another fifth gear pull https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416769632 |
Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.
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It works!
At the end it was really the neutral switch :party: launch control is useless on first gear (wheel spin) but very cool flat shift is very funny, but slower than a "classical" shifting maybe I have to change some parameter, but for today I am satisfied :giggle:
Originally Posted by Schuyler
(Post 1184736)
Are you sure a rigid brace was the best idea? I'd worry about the runners cracking when things to hot.
If you watch my second post (1st page) you can see the same brace but with no penetration (low amperage). It lasted 10.000 km This time I tig welded it with 120 A :naughty: |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416903195 The car is running better day after day, but the clutch is beginning to slip (while I don't lift off the right foot) when I change gear with flat shift damn egg smell soooo: flat shift disabled :giggle: |
I'm planning to build my engine: it's 10.000 km of chrubo stress, I want to be sure that I won't broke anything (and raise the pressure)
Is that enough or I need something else? Eagle Rods Wiseco Pistons MIATA 1.8 TURBO K553M84 CRS5233M3D | eBay :drool: Whitch clutch would you buy for 250 rwhp? or... is a waste of money for that power and all I need is only ebay rods and stock pistons + new rings?? CXRacing Mazda Miata 323 1.6 1.8 B BP H Beam Rod Rods + Bolts | eBay I need your opinions!! :vash2: |
Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.
Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name. Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range. |
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1185294)
Ebay rods are fine. Get Supertech pistons from 949 Racing. I'm using the ACT XTSS and like it but there are many good choices from FM and others.
Put your location in your profile so it shows under your screen name. Spark map looks good but you can usually go up to 29-30 in the higher end of the 101kpa range. Supertech pistons? I will take them. Thanks for the advice ;) this is the last piece I need to make the 3" exhaust: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417036149 made in china, shipped in east coast (usa) and then shipped in Italy (wat) |
Cx racing rods ordered.
Cheapest rods, in the world. I temporary run with stock pistons + cx racing rods and new rings and bushings By the way: which ring would you like to buy? like, are those good enough for a temporary use? *CHROME PISTON RINGS* Mazda Protege Miata MX-5 1.8L DOHC L4 16v 'BP' 1990-2005 | eBay consider that I would buy 9:1 pistons, but now I don't have enough €€€ |
Originally Posted by DNA54
(Post 1185549)
By the way: which ring would you like to buy?
like, are those good enough for a temporary use? Do you rebuild your engine every few weeks for fun? |
I'm confused: I want more power but to stay under 300 whp
I've read that stock pistons are 300 hp capable (I have 8 more stock piston in my garage), but... I want reliability. Once I build the engine I want to do it once. Are stock pistons 300 whp capable for a long time or I have to put 8.8:1 wiseco or supertech? also: which clutch do you consider for that power goal? |
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Did you notice the direction of the exhaust?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292077 There is clearly something wrong. |
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Really
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 but, there is nothing you can't fix with a hammer https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 before vs after :giggle: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417292393 |
you ballooned your muffler? :laugh:
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well, time for 3" :fawk:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417354793 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417354793 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417354793 last 3-4 flatshift was fatal, but pretty epic wooooooo-BANG!-BRUAAAAAAAAA :jerkit: |
lolol yeah crimped mufflers do not belong on turbo cars, especially if you are doing anything which makes explosions in the exhaust.
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This thread delivers :D
Thank you for those awesome pictures |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1186038)
This thread delivers :D
Thank you for those awesome pictures |
Too many 3step JDM open diff burnout launches yo.
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because I learn from my mistakes
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417458492 my car lifter is broken (chain), I have all the necessary for fix it, but goddamn it's heavy!! I can't do all alone aaaand... I want the car back on the road, so: another turbo muffler. |
why wouldn't you put on a good muffler?
turbo mufflers are awful for turbo cars. |
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1186264)
why wouldn't you put on a good muffler?
turbo mufflers are awful for turbo cars. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417467755 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417467755 tiny differences :crx: |
Seems it'd be a better idea to not waste money and just run it without a muffler for a few days?
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1186487)
Seems it'd be a better idea to not waste money and just run it without a muffler for a few days?
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Those crimped "turbo" mufflers are only $20-30 so I'm sure he's not out too much cash.
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Along the lines of "why not run without muffler?"
I am seriously considering making a muffler delete section on my next exhaust. My magnaflow is so quiet and when I ran straight downpipe to midpipe for a a day last year I didn't really mind it. I hear the SRT Neons ran mufflerless from factory? Just thinking out loud. |
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1186487)
Seems it'd be a better idea to not waste money and just run it without a muffler for a few days?
Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1186508)
Those crimped "turbo" mufflers are only $20-30 so I'm sure he's not out too much cash.
also I alredy have another one in my garage, so why not put in while I build the 3" ? btw: warm engine + kitten https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417551093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417551093 finally ready: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417551093 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1417551093 now I need time :2cents: |
Pretty sweet progress so far. Did I read that right and you're running it on LPG or propane? I'd like to know more about that conversion, how it runs, etc.
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Oh man this thread is entertainment. Thanks for all the pics. You know you are doing some interesting things with the arduino. Im surprised you are not developing things and selling them on here to fund your build. Which also led me to wonder why you didnt build your own MS. Nonethless thank you for all the work you have done here. This thread is very enjoyable. How much longer do you think the ebay manifold will last?
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