DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

does your FM bov sound like a turkey

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-25-2007, 03:40 PM
  #21  
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Trent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,651
Total Cats: 39
Default

i was waiting for someone to post it.

where is your BOV located? is it nearer the throttle body or the turbo? BOV flutter can be alleviated a bit by installing the BOV (or BPV in your case since you have it recirc'd) nearer the throttle body.
Trent is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 03:49 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
jwarriner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 564
Total Cats: 1
Default

Originally Posted by jayc72
How does the method of attachement really matter in how it performs?
Just a general indicator of quality. It's not a trump card, mind you, but it tells me they are more concerned with market share than functionality. With aftermarket car parts universal is often times another word for mediocre.
jwarriner is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 03:54 PM
  #23  
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Trent's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 1,651
Total Cats: 39
Default

btw, i run a 1G dsm valve, and it leaks a bit on idle. just something to think about.
Trent is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 04:13 PM
  #24  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
PAT!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 464
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by jwarriner
Just a general indicator of quality. It's not a trump card, mind you, but it tells me they are more concerned with market share than functionality. With aftermarket car parts universal is often times another word for mediocre.
Actually the valves with skin crawl inducing hose connections are almost universally application specific, its only recently that they have been marketed heavily to the universal market. 25mm ports will be replacements for 25mm Bosch valves such as in a Saab or VW, 34mm would work well on an EVO or 2nd Gen Eclipse. A valve with a 28mm pressure port and a 25mm discharge would be just dandy on a Pulsar GTiR...

Come to think of it, the valves that I'm assuming that you prefer, ie those with proprietary flanges like a Blitz or a GReddy or an Apexi or an HKS, all of those are universal and require the purchase of weld-on mounting flanges or fitting kits. Another way to get money out of the consumer... Just a different viewpoint

And just as an FYI, we make over a 100 different valves, and quite a few have hose style connectors...
PAT! is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 04:33 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
jwarriner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 564
Total Cats: 1
Default

Yeah, I was speaking more of "easy to install" rather than universal but needs welding.
jwarriner is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 06:39 PM
  #26  
Junior Member
 
ak47bravo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 209
Total Cats: -1
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
ya that is the one
ak47bravo is offline  
Old 04-25-2007, 09:04 PM
  #27  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
PAT!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 464
Total Cats: 0
Default

It looks like it has a brass piston... does it have any o-rings? If the seal between the top/vacuum portion of the valve and the piston shirt isn't tight enough its possible that that is causing the flutter. Basically at idle the spring is enough to keep the valve closed against the diminished vacuum (of course), and during boost even though the top is leaking it, along with the spring is enough to keep the valve closed. Right at lift the differential is enough to open the valve but as pressure drops there isn't enough vacuum to keep the valve open so it closes, and opens, and closes blah blah blah.

Another cause beyond the spring tension that can cause the flutter.
PAT! is offline  
Old 04-27-2007, 11:26 PM
  #28  
Junior Member
 
retro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 0
Default

I had the turkey gobble when I first installed my turbo. I diagnosed the problem as follows:

1. Removed the bypass valve and plugged the ports on the charge pipe and intake with duct tape. Drove car. RESULT: Turkey gobble remained. This confirmed that the gooble sound was actually the vac pressure backing up on the turbo.

2. Removed the duct tape and installed a heater hose directly connecting both ports with no bypass valve (fully open). Drove the car. RESULT: No gobble sound, concluding that the bypass valve can't be operating correctly.

Later solved the problem with a new BOV.
retro is offline  
Old 04-28-2007, 06:15 PM
  #29  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
left field's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hartville, OH
Posts: 173
Total Cats: 0
Default

problem mostly resolved. switched to another vac port with a bigger signal line. much more quiet and proper sounding.
left field is offline  
Old 04-28-2007, 07:49 PM
  #30  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

that can do it.
Braineack is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
nick470
MEGAsquirt
7
06-16-2017 01:53 PM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
09-30-2015 02:44 PM
itsMikey
MSPNP
3
09-28-2015 06:40 AM



Quick Reply: does your FM bov sound like a turkey



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:27 PM.