does your FM bov sound like a turkey
#24
Come to think of it, the valves that I'm assuming that you prefer, ie those with proprietary flanges like a Blitz or a GReddy or an Apexi or an HKS, all of those are universal and require the purchase of weld-on mounting flanges or fitting kits. Another way to get money out of the consumer... Just a different viewpoint
And just as an FYI, we make over a 100 different valves, and quite a few have hose style connectors...
#27
It looks like it has a brass piston... does it have any o-rings? If the seal between the top/vacuum portion of the valve and the piston shirt isn't tight enough its possible that that is causing the flutter. Basically at idle the spring is enough to keep the valve closed against the diminished vacuum (of course), and during boost even though the top is leaking it, along with the spring is enough to keep the valve closed. Right at lift the differential is enough to open the valve but as pressure drops there isn't enough vacuum to keep the valve open so it closes, and opens, and closes blah blah blah.
Another cause beyond the spring tension that can cause the flutter.
Another cause beyond the spring tension that can cause the flutter.
#28
I had the turkey gobble when I first installed my turbo. I diagnosed the problem as follows:
1. Removed the bypass valve and plugged the ports on the charge pipe and intake with duct tape. Drove car. RESULT: Turkey gobble remained. This confirmed that the gooble sound was actually the vac pressure backing up on the turbo.
2. Removed the duct tape and installed a heater hose directly connecting both ports with no bypass valve (fully open). Drove the car. RESULT: No gobble sound, concluding that the bypass valve can't be operating correctly.
Later solved the problem with a new BOV.
1. Removed the bypass valve and plugged the ports on the charge pipe and intake with duct tape. Drove car. RESULT: Turkey gobble remained. This confirmed that the gooble sound was actually the vac pressure backing up on the turbo.
2. Removed the duct tape and installed a heater hose directly connecting both ports with no bypass valve (fully open). Drove the car. RESULT: No gobble sound, concluding that the bypass valve can't be operating correctly.
Later solved the problem with a new BOV.
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