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Old 06-17-2014, 01:23 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Chiburbian View Post
Maybe mods split this out? I feel like I want to ask more questions but I will only be cluttering up the BEGI thread.


It's my thread, do what you want. Post cats, dicks, spew obscenities everywhere, i don't care in the slightest.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:01 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
335/325 out of a GT2560R @ 19 psi? you're smoking crack. That's like 70 more ftlbs than the max i've seen.

******* cool as hell though.
Your comments make me LOL. I was wondering why my nitrous bottle was empty. It's a BP-Z3 is installed in a Lotus7 replica. Packaging is much better, exhaust is MUCH better. Motor is well prepped, not stock.

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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Right. My 2554 holds up top better than that. And better than the 2560 on that chart.

Those torque numbers don't gel either. Smells like FM's dyno.


Ben, are you sure those numbers aren't like.... those turbos on an F2T?
How do the torque numbers "not gel"? You know that horsepower is derived from torque and RPM, right?

There's no level of impropriety in the plots; I don't sell turbos or have an agenda. If you feel like an EFR is a good choice for you, go for it. In this test, the EFR lost power, both on the actual and butt dynos. The car's owner is registered on this forum and he'll post up if he feels like it.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:07 PM   #43
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Theres just no way, no matter how good your exhaust is, that you can make a 32lb/min turbo make 325whp on a heart breaker dyno, especially not with a BP. And that you can fail to beat that with a much more efficient 53lb/min turbo is just mind boggling.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:12 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Your comments make me LOL. I was wondering why my nitrous bottle was empty. It's a BP-Z3 is installed in a Lotus7 replica. Packaging is much better, exhaust is MUCH better. Motor is well prepped, not stock.

How do the torque numbers "not gel"? You know that horsepower is derived from torque and RPM, right?

There's no level of impropriety in the plots; I don't sell turbos or have an agenda. If you feel like an EFR is a good choice for you, go for it. In this test, the EFR lost power, both on the actual and butt dynos. The car's owner is registered on this forum and he'll post up if he feels like it.


I know how horsepower is derived, i'm just saying that the torque number you got out of the 2560 is pretty much unpossibru, and it's weird that it falls so hard. I can't understanding losing almost 100wtq from peak to redline on a built BP with any EFR.

I actually remember you posting a similar 2560 making 325whp in a Locost/Lotus/Caterham thing awhile back... this the same car?
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:45 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Packaging is much better, exhaust is MUCH better.
Can you get permission to post pics of the manifold and exhaust? I want to see what better and MUCH better looks like.

I bailed on a GT2560R in favor of an EFR6258 specifically because of the limitations we've traditionally seen out of the 2560. The information you've posted does not match what we've seen out of either turbo, so please do not take our skepticism as personal attack. We are just trying to understand.

How much power did Paul make on his 2560 & AbsurdFlow setup? AFAIK that's as good as it got with a 2560.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:50 PM   #46
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+1 to all of what G said
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #47
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Paul's best was somewhere around [email protected] on a dynojet with 93 octane, MS2. '99 engine, BEGI cast intake mani. but 304rwhp at 14psi at the same day, so it was at it's limit. I think torques were around 260's.

E85 + MS3? I don't know. I trust Ben but that's nuts.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:58 PM   #48
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If legit, i want to drive that car. I bet it's horrifying.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:22 PM   #49
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Red line is Soviet's car on gas IIRC. 84mm bottom end, stock BP4W head, EFR6758, [email protected] Just sayin'
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:28 PM   #50
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I thought 400whp was at something closer to 26-27psi (maybe even 29psi) for soviet on pump gas.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:30 PM   #51
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No, that was the max power ALLOFIT run.


Look at the top of the picture, gives details on the red line run.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:36 PM   #52
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It is HRK's locost that Ben is talking about and this is the build thread for the locost7. Here is the original dyno thread from last year where the 2560 dyno was first shown.

Last edited by shuiend; 06-17-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:17 PM   #53
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Wait, this manifold or something else?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrk View Post
1.5 MM overbore actually, block filler used in water jackets up to waterpump to add stiffness .
Wiseco pistons with 8.8 compression ratio after decking and adjusting the squish and compression ratio.

turbo info on my for sale ad:
The compressor has GARRET A/R 60 M24 1-1 on the casting.
The bearing housing has
HJ 01 06J
14411-69F00
466541-1
Turbine housing has Garret 2
turbine inlet flange is 72 mm x 45 mm with holes for 10 mm studs. T25.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...ops-etc-69843/

Same log manifold made from weld-els used in this setup.


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Old 06-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post

Red line is Soviet's car on gas IIRC. 84mm bottom end, stock BP4W head, EFR6758, [email protected] Just sayin'
6758 may be a better choice, but IMO the 6258 leaves something to be desired.
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:00 PM   #55
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I think the big question is, what makes your experience so different? Normally a 10 PSI 2560 setup makes about 220 whp. But a similar setup at 10 psi on the 6258 bends rods.

Why?
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:07 PM   #56
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I'm also wondering why a 6258 on a "better" built motor would spool shittier than a 6758 on a somewhat half-assed motor (no offense to Soviet.)
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:15 PM   #57
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because math

oh wait
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:24 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I'm also wondering why a 6258 on a "better" built motor would spool shittier than a 6758 on a somewhat half-assed motor (no offense to Soviet.)
Our dynapack doesn't seem to let little motors spool up as well as actual driving does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
I think the big question is, what makes your experience so different? Normally a 10 PSI 2560 setup makes about 220 whp. But a similar setup at 10 psi on the 6258 bends rods.

Why?
What 6258 setup bends rods? Who else has done a comparison, same car, same dyno, same motor?

I have complete faith in the dyno results because I was there. Everybody expected the BW EFR to blow away the Garrett. Everybody was surprised when it didn't.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:26 PM   #59
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Pretty much everyone on this site who has put any EFR on a stock motor has ended up with bent rods, regardless of boost level.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:34 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Our dynapack doesn't seem to let little motors spool up as well as actual driving does.
you can fix that you know. dynapac gives you to power to hold the car for a second or two before starting the pull and it allows you to control the length of the pull. When I dyno'ed at a spec miata shop on a dynapac they only had it setup for SMs and I really didnt want to make a 25 second long 4th gear pull, with 7 a second hold at the start of the pull. So I think I dropped it to 3 seconds and a 15 second long pull because those were the numbers I pulled out of my *** on the spot.
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