Please excuse my ignorance, but exactly what kind of a video should I be shooting?

I will post my logs (and msq) when I have a chance, and I'm pretty sure you will be pointing out some glaring mistakes when I do that.
I do look forward to being corrected, btw.

 

Probably just a video of it driving arround and accelerating.

And yeah, I had the same thing going from a JRSC on my 1.6 to my turbo setup. But that was exhaspersted from removing the cat I destroyed learning to tun the supercharger set up at the same time I put the turbo in... But, even at 11.5psi on the super, when it was doing well, the turbo felt just as quick at waste gate which is... 5psi.

 

You can get on Vlad's good side by posting a video of the dash while you run up through the gears. Sounds like it will be a short vid.

So glad the project came together.

I have a co-worker that married a lady from Madagascar. He had been stationed there for something resembling his military / non-military duty as a French citizen. They go back for a few weeks every other year, and basically fall off the earth for that period.

We missed you at MATG. Did have representation from Iceland, however.

DNM

 

Sorcery:

Your air inflator can fill a tire with 30 psi, but that doesn't make it a good option for boost in a car because the air mass flow rate is very low.

A leaf blower has more mass flow but is in capable of serious pressure

A turbo combines both into a high flowing compressor.

A supercharger is similar, but is flow limited because it can only spin so fast because of physics. It also requires direct engine power to drive it. Turbos are driven by the waste heat energy of the exhaust which is less parasitic.

 

Another update:

I'm getting just over 20 mpg in the city.
That's just a hair better than what I was getting from my perfectly stock '99 in city driving conditions.

 

I will be replacing my entire exhaust system (everything behind the downpipe) soon.
Current exhaust system is 3" into 2.5". DP is 3, and the rest is 2.5, well, more like 60 mm.
The whole thing is about 9 years old, and my Borla muffler makes funny noises when I bang on it with the back of my hand.
There are also a couple less than ideal bends where the piping contacts the body or the suspension under certain conditions.
New exhaust will be 3" all the way, with custom silencers, because it is a cheaper solution in this part of the world to have things custom made.
Flanged cat for inspection time, and a flanged pass through resonator instead of a test pipe, because quiet is nicer.

Question: Does a dual exit setup (like the pic above) actually provide any benefits, or is it purely a cosmetic deal?
We can design the silencer for a true dual outlet if it is really advantageous.

Also, how would a 3" setup affect my K04 (the large turbo that comes on later) compared to a 2.5" (or 60 mm) exhaust?

 

My understanding is that it's pretty much all cosmetic, other than in V config engines where you may have a separate pipe run for each bank of cylinders.

Any real benefit would be that two pipes would flow better than one, so if space was tight it may be easier to route, but the fact that the stock bumper cutout can easily take a 4in tailpipe means you can get heaps of flow from just one pipe.

(i have no idea about exhaust velocity etc though, so maybe that makes a difference tc?)

 

One more question...

It seems like my cranking settings could be better. Way better.
Takes about 8 to 10 cranks for the engine to catch, and once it fires, rather than "coming alive", the engine starts a little "reluctant". İt does not die, at all.
I am attaching my .msq. I firmly believe it needs a second opinion, because I think I am missing something obvious.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

 

In my very limited experience, on vehicles with only one header (4 cly engines), there is no performance gain in a dual exhaust.

 

Without looking, I'd guess you're very slightly rich. Try removing 5% of your cranking AND separately your after start enrichment and see what happens.
Violating the one variable rule, do both then add either back in if it gets worse or stays the same. when you figure out which one contributes, continue to reduce it until you observe a different result, then iterate and change back by half the previous amount until perfection.

If after start is too lean, you'll notice it just slowly dies.
too rich, and it sputters until it gets going.

 

Once you get it starting nicely, but with long cranking times; or stated chronologically, once long cranking times produce a startup that is clean (per y8s above); Add Priming Pulse until it does that good fire-off with fewer cranks.

I presume by 8-10 cranks you do not mean key cycles, but engine cycles.

EDIT: I have looked at your MSQ. You have some pretty heavy Priming Pulses already. I think you may wish to circle back, reduce the Priming Pulses to about 4mS across the board. Then start the re-tuning process on CP and ASE. Then add back PP as needed.

 

@18psi

 

@y8s and @DNMakinson I followed your advice and there is already quite a bit of improvement.
Thank you!

And I guess I will not be bothering with a dual exhaust on a 3" setup.

EDIT:

Now that I think about it, I remember having to remove a ton of fuel from all over the fuel map after switching to turbo from SC.
I guess the car needed a ton of fuel in that configuration.
I never stopped to think the fuel removal thing would apply to cranking settings, too.

 

Only benefit to dual exhaust is if you have twin collectors in a V engine and separate mufflers for each bank. Or you're pushing so many horses through your 4-banger that a single exit won't do, but if that was the case you'd be running a massive midpipe too. Basically if the pipe into the muffler is smaller or equal in sectional area to each pipe exiting the muffler, there's no point in dual outlets.

 

For the record, I just found out I made a very stupid mistake.

Went through months of research, cooked up a management scheme for the two turbos, came up with all kinds of weird solutions, double checked everything...

And then, I picked the wrong symbol from a drop down menu.
">", instead of "<"...

Which meant, my IWG was closed in cruise conditions, and I was opening it at 95 kpa and above.
Which meant, I was trying to make boost with the damn wastegate open.

Large turbo was making 11 - 12 psi at 5000 rpm. With the WG open.

Stupid.

I am correcting and double checking every single step and detail at the moment.

 

Well at least you found it!

 

It appears I have some foreign object damage.
I guess that explains why the small (HP) turbo just stopped producing boost.
Funny thing is, fresh air enters the small turbo THROUGH the large one.
Meaning, any foreign object entering the system would damage the large turbo more than the small one.

Maybe something just came off the large one and entered the small turbo.
I really do not know.

They are both getting rebuilt.

Here is the damage:

Small turbo:














And the damage on the large turbo:





































I took as many pics as I can to make sure all details are visible...

What do you think?

 

Maybe a hole in your air filter

 

I'll take my prize.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/miat...7538804519469/
my comment half way down.

enough gloating. that sucks.

 

I know. I kept thinking about your comment as I was taking them apart.

It actually did work for a while, and quit altogether a few days ago.
There is shaft play, too.
If I spin it by hand, makes a buzzing noise and stops abruptly.

Takes about an hour, and 30-40 bucks to totally rebuild them. That includes computerized balancing...