So you just deburr the blades by hand and rebalance eh?

 

Not really. All new bearings and new turbines.
Let's just say I am not paying retail for parts.

 

How damaged are the turbine wheels/housing if you are replacing those too? Looks like just the compressor wheels are slightly damaged.

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I was just replying to Tim about the scope of a proper rebuild.
We will be replacing the compressor wheels and bearings at this point.

 

Don't be sorry, we don't all have English as a not-first language.

Screw the little compressor wheel onto your oil fill cap please.

 

Bad news:
Both turbos were shot.

Both were oil starved in addition to the obvious compressor wheel damage.
Apparently, oil passages on the bearings were blocked by dirt.
Bearings were toast. Shafts were sorry looking. Cartridge end plates were junk. Compressor wheels... You can see them in my above posts.

Good news:
They are completely rebuilt and balanced. Better than new.

Concerning news:
This is the second time dirt has found its way into the turbos. I need to do something.


This is how I had set up my oil pick up for the turbos:





Right from the sandwich plate, through the engine, and to the turbos...

That was not very smart. Unfiltered oil and all...

So, the new plan is getting the oil from the sender port.
There is a potential problem with that approach. Screw an adapter in the sender hole, add a T fitting, and hang the sender at the end of it, and it may break off. Carnage.

I came up with a plan to eliminate such a potential risk:

There is a threaded hole (M6) at the bottom of the intake manifold:








I will make a small oil manifold out of 30x20 mm aluminum stock



It will look like this, with 2 1/8 NPT holes in the back, one 1/8 BSP hole in the front, and one 1/4 pipe thread hole on the side (facing the rear of the car)

I will bolt this manifold to the bottom of the intake manifold, so it will take up all the weight.
A 1/8 BSP to 1/4 pipe thread adapter will be screwed in the oil sender hole in the block.
Then, a large diameter hose will carry the oil to the manifold - minimum ID 5.5 mm. Because I am feeding two turbos.
After that, two hoses with 90 degree swivel heads will be connected to the rear, and will carry the oil to the turbos - they will be routed through the engine.
And the oil sender will be on that manifold, as well.


I made a mock up of the oil manifold location, so I could measure for the hoses:











I believe that will be a clean, decent solution to feed filtered, clean oil to the turbos.

Can't wait to finish this bit now...
I have all the measurements. All I need to do is get the 3 hoses made, buy the BSP adapter, and bolt it back together, install the IM, assemble the turbos on their housing on the bench, install them in the car, change the oil, and clean the garage.

I have another engine rebuild on an NA Miata, and a complete teardown/rebuild on a 360 Modena after that.

Oh, rebuilding both turbos cost me $42.95. Just the wholesale cost of parts, and no labor.

 

This is what you need. You can stack them without issues, I have in the past many a times.

 

I would be afraid of this cracking; cantilever with the sensor weight hanging plus engine vibrations. I like Hakan's solution a lot though.

 

I'm not worried about that piece cracking because it is stainless steel and not brass or something weaker.

 

Please remember I need to hang two lines and a sender on such an adapter.
That's why I chose the method I came up with.

 

Meh, I have had 2 stacked stainless steel fittings like that for 5+ years. No way it is less safe then the single brass fitting's miata's used there for years. Godless's way is definitely a bit quicker then getting a few sent over from the US.

I think this is similar to what spec miata people say about the stupid intake manifold brace being there.

 

Did you add an in-line oil filter and double-down on protection?

 

+1 on this, you can get an in-line oil filter on your turbo oil feed. Added benefit of protecting the turbo if the engine starts slinging bearing material.

 

I'd like to respond to these questions with a response from @Joe Perez in a related thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...87/#post924829

 

Progress...

Here's the manifold I made. 30x20x70 mm aluminum bar stock.
I specifically decided to use 6013 aluminum for the manifold, because it was the only thing I could find on a Saturday.

One 1/4 oil inlet, Two 1/8 npt outlets for the turbos, and a 1/4 port for the sender unit.
The sender uses a 1/8 bsp female- 1/4 male adapter because I did not want to buy a 1/8 bsp tap.





Here is the back side (towards the engine block)
There is also a 6 mm hole to mount this thing on the bottom of the IM.





Final mock up before the assembly.
I was too generous with the length of the large feed line from the block, hence the weird loop. I can always shorten that.
Minimum ID on the large line is 5.5 mm.

Since I have a proper oil pressure gauge, I figured this sender will be sort of "dedicated" to the turbo oil feed pressure, which is an added benefit.




Finally, oil lines connecting to the turbos, going through the engine.
They will have their heat sleeves before I fire up the car.




All lines and fittings are custom made.
Hoses are rated at 28 bar operating pressure, and can take much higher temps than what I can throw at them.

 

@TurboTim, were you serious, or just kidding?

 

Yes I'm serious. What else are you going to do with it?

 

the first three compressor miata

 

Consider it done...

 

Just please don't create an oil leak.