Ok, time for me to start fine tuning my spark table too. I really have only focused on a few very narrow regions.
So yeah, my table is not very refined but it works well at the drag strip.

 

18PSI is about right. My margins are extremely low. They only exist if I don't count my labor as an expense. I build turbo setups out of wanting something cheap and decent being available on the market for miata people. If I was to go to any other production method costs would go up enough to not justify going with my setups. So the trade off is that my setups are cheap, but I am slow with building them.

 

Thanks Lars!
You have our everlasting gratitude.

 

thank you for the bone. but am i missing something?.....your math would put me at 3* at 12psi?

 

Even easier: 12* at 12psi row. Interpolate everything in between to 27* at 0psi100kpa

I meant every row/breakpoint. My bad (see how sonofthehill's is scaled above)
Usually in ms we have a row for every 2-5psi

 

Yeah mine is good above 3000 and 160 kpa and up. But like I said it might be a bit high in some areas, I think I pulled half a degree here and there whenever I would see a knock on a hot day or something.
The rest needs a lot of work but I am lazy.

 

My MS2 gives me a pretty crappy low res spark table compared to MS3.

 

Meh don't even sweat it, you don't need much more resolution than that.
I always laugh when I remember how many set points we had with the adaptronic, such a waste of time and didn't contribute to any additional smoothness. The hydra is just like it. Really silly

 

Yeah, I remember reading some old post by Brain about, it just extrapolates. It works fine for me.
I will still work in refining my 70-140kpa ignition cells.

 

yeah honestly, you could scale your boost spark table with two rows.

27° at 100kPa like 18psi said, then like 16-17° at around 200kPa.

As far as the MS is concerned, this:



is the same as this:

 

my plan is to start adding timing in my 10-14psi cells from 3000-6000rpm. Ive been trying to wrap my head around how jeremy has this base table set up and the best areas to start making changes. Based on my "research" and looking at countless timing maps on here, there is no reason i shouldnt be able to use 4 or 5 more degrees in the midrange

 

You can use that. Or even more. But without knowing where you're at, you can get carried away and have to rebuild your engine like I did back in 08. All 4 rods were bent, gt2860, 13psi.
You should at least get a baseline dyno or track trap speed, like I keep telling you.

 

Im going to. I found a dynojet in my area that i need to set an appointment at. The guy with the Mustang dyno scared me away. Im really confident i have more headroom. The car doesn't feel crazy fast. And wont even spin my RS3s in first gear.

Where your cylinders damaged from the bent rods?

 

One of them had a small chunk of ringland missing, the others were perfect. Honed the block, new pistons and h-beam rods and then I was happy.

 

change of plans. the guy with the mustang 10 mins from my house can get me in tonight. 3 runs for $125. First run will be how the car sits now-13 psi and FM base timing map. 2nd run will be same psi but with 4 degrees more. 3rd run maybe ill add a degree or 2 after 6000rpm

 

Pricey, the dynojet place next to me charges $75 for 3 pulls, or $100 an hour if i want to rent the dyno.

 

I have seen prices for 3 runs anywhere from $50-150, depending on the dyno type and operator and such.

 

Has the guy ever had a stock Miata or n/a Miata on that dyno to compare the numbers to?

That's the tricky things bout Mustang dyno's, they can be manipulated so easily that you NEVER know if one is reading low or high. They do not all read low like some people falsely think. You need something to compare to, something to base your numbers off.

Otherwise if it's truly set to read low, you'll see 180whp, get disappointed, start throwing boost and timing at it, make 220 and think you're good, when you're really at like 260 DJ and basically past the limit of your rods.

Just some things to consider.

 

this is my fear. I think mustangs are great for tuning.. but for power numbers while pushing the stock engine, dynojet is the way to go. I have a DJ appointment set up for September 3rd unless "more important things show up during that week" I hate living in an area full of GM v8s and giant diesel trucks.
anyway, that will give me some time to make sure everything is right and talk to jeremy before the dyno. I also want to make a few timing maps and test them on the street w/ my knock sensor. Then i can quickly load them up in between runs if I want more jam

 

can anyone tell me why most forged pistons for the 1.8 are bigger than the standard bore? fab9, trackspeed, 949...all their choices are .5mm over. weisco, supertech, je, etc.

the ONLY off the shelf pistons ive found that are the standard 83mm bore are CP. and they are expensive as hell.

Im going to build that "rods only" engine but if I could do a quick hone at home, why not throw in some stock bore forged pistons?