500* F is low for a running turbo hotside. Nothing is wrong with it.
The FACTORY uses metal heat shields completely around the exhaust pipe all of the way to the tailpipe tip. I'm sure they were just bored and looking for ways to waste money and resources. |
If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your tunning.
|
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 1049156)
If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your timing.
FTFY. |
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 1049156)
If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your tunning.
Thiat said, the car has no AC, no carpet, no insulation, no OEM shielding, and a bolted on hardtop... even with the stock 1.6 the interior was like an EZ-Bake oven. I don't like being hot. |
Hi Fellas ! :party:
I really don't think that I have an EGT problem. I have a good AFR table, have done a lot of TS tuning with a calibrated LC1 etc. Also haven't spit exhaust valves out of the tail pipe. :giggle: So far all I've done is sand and wire brush the down pipe and coat with 2000 degree spray paint AKA poor man's powder coating. The previous barbecue paint was flaking off in spots. :bang: I found by testing that conventional fiber glass mating is safe to lay on the turbo hot side without bursting into flames. I took a drive with a piece right up against the turbo and it got too hot too touch but it was not burnt. I made a small blanket to wrap my LC-1 by spraying the fiber glass with the high heat paint,adding thin aluminum and covering the gage module Hope to add the header wrap tape to the down pipe and modify the turbo heat shield tomorrow. |
Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
|
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 1049202)
Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
|
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 1049202)
Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
|
4 Attachment(s)
I added a back semi enclosed section to my old heat shield.
I'm not happy with it but it should work. |
Originally Posted by poobs
(Post 1049283)
True ! Me thinks also lean mixtures.
|
I just went to test drive my heat shield. Surprisingly and considering that it is made up of at least 3 types of metals with somewhat different coefficient of expansion – it did not rip off its mounting bolts
The infrared thermometer aka laser pointer/favorite cat toy says that a single sheet of metal in places making actual contact with the turbo cuts the temperature by ½ at the surface of the metal. Firewall is about 140 degrees behind the turbo. I don’t think it was worth the effort considering the amount of work it did not substantially reduce the temperature behind the turbo but for a doz. to a couple doz. degrees but I did increase the area that is protected. For an encore I’m probably going to use that header tape since I already bought it and see what that does. Header tape is said to promote rust on the pipe (BAD) :violin: |
I just put a sheet of ReflectX from Menards, lay a layer down and tape it into place to secure it. It's like corrugated plastic (like PC anti-static bag consistency) A/C duct insulation. I covered everything from the outside edges of the floor, up a foot on the firewall for both seats and up and over the transmission tunnel under the center console. It works so well I only see heat in the foot wells under heavy boost, and only during the boosting.
My next plan is to put a home-made heatshield between the downpipe and transmission tunnel by the peddles, I think that'll stop any residual heat. |
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1050531)
I just put a sheet of ReflectX from Menards, lay a layer down and tape it into place to secure it. It's like corrugated plastic (like PC anti-static bag consistency) A/C duct insulation. I covered everything from the outside edges of the floor, up a foot on the firewall for both seats and up and over the transmission tunnel under the center console. It works so well I only see heat in the foot wells under heavy boost, and only during the boosting.
My next plan is to put a home-made heatshield between the downpipe and transmission tunnel by the peddles, I think that'll stop any residual heat. It is not intended for cars but I carry a good fire extinguisher ;) Ironically it has been too darn hot to work on the car :vash: |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by poobs
(Post 1050640)
It is not intended for cars but I carry a good fire extinguisher ;)
|
OMG!!! That's an awesome pic !!:bowrofl:
Ok I'll get an even bigger fire extinguisher :noes: |
Originally Posted by poobs
(Post 1050640)
I picked this up Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1050658)
That's the stuff I've been telling people about. It works well.
I'm also messing around with regular glass mat painted with high heat paint. I lay it right on the turbo and it does not burn. It gets too hot to the touch but I don't know if it serves any purpose like that. I guess that if it gets that hot it does radiate heat. It might act like a single sheet of metal heat shield (?) :hsugh: |
Originally Posted by poobs
(Post 1050669)
How big a piece did you use and where did you stick it. Did you place it right above the DP ?
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1050928)
On the firewall and trans tunnel adjacent to downpipe/exhaust. I cleaned the surface with solvent to degrease it, then stuck it right on. That was over a year ago and it hasn't moved.
|
Funny : I bypassed the heater core when I dropped in the turbo because I never liked the heat always on and after the turbo install, the proximity of the heater hoses to the turbo.
In the winter there has been enough residual heat coming in the cabin. Once I get all this insulation stuff on I may just be cold in the winter. :) |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:01 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands