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Old 08-30-2013, 11:42 AM   #61
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500* F is low for a running turbo hotside. Nothing is wrong with it.

The FACTORY uses metal heat shields completely around the exhaust pipe all of the way to the tailpipe tip. I'm sure they were just bored and looking for ways to waste money and resources.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:16 PM   #62
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If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your tunning.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #63
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If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your timing.

FTFY.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:47 PM   #64
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If your exhaust is getting that hot where you need a floor shield, a ceramic coating, heat wrap, and another shield, you should look into your tunning.
Well, last time the car ran (6 years ago) it had a Begi rising rate and a bipes ... so yes, one can assume my tune was 'off'.

Thiat said, the car has no AC, no carpet, no insulation, no OEM shielding, and a bolted on hardtop... even with the stock 1.6 the interior was like an EZ-Bake oven.

I don't like being hot.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:20 AM   #65
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Hi Fellas !

I really don't think that I have an EGT problem. I have a good AFR table, have done a lot of TS tuning with a calibrated LC1 etc. Also haven't spit exhaust valves out of the tail pipe.

So far all I've done is sand and wire brush the down pipe and coat with 2000 degree spray paint AKA poor man's powder coating. The previous barbecue paint was flaking off in spots.

I found by testing that conventional fiber glass mating is safe to lay on the turbo hot side without bursting into flames. I took a drive with a piece right up against the turbo and it got too hot too touch but it was not burnt.

I made a small blanket to wrap my LC-1 by spraying the fiber glass with the high heat paint,adding thin aluminum and covering the gage module

Hope to add the header wrap tape to the down pipe and modify the turbo heat shield tomorrow.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:41 AM   #66
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Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:53 PM   #67
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Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
This.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:33 PM   #68
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Timing is what will affect egts greatly.
True ! Me thinks also lean mixtures.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:26 PM   #69
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I added a back semi enclosed section to my old heat shield.
I'm not happy with it but it should work.
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How R you keeping the heat out of cabin?-copy-img_3314.jpg   How R you keeping the heat out of cabin?-compressed-img_3315.jpg  

Last edited by poobs; 08-31-2013 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Added photo
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:04 AM   #70
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True ! Me thinks also lean mixtures.
Not in cruise. There just isnt enough heat.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:12 PM   #71
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I just went to test drive my heat shield. Surprisingly and considering that it is made up of at least 3 types of metals with somewhat different coefficient of expansion Ė it did not rip off its mounting bolts 

The infrared thermometer aka laser pointer/favorite cat toy says that a single sheet of metal in places making actual contact with the turbo cuts the temperature by Ĺ at the surface of the metal.
Firewall is about 140 degrees behind the turbo.

I donít think it was worth the effort considering the amount of work it did not substantially reduce the temperature behind the turbo but for a doz. to a couple doz. degrees but I did increase the area that is protected.

For an encore Iím probably going to use that header tape since I already bought it and see what that does. Header tape is said to promote rust on the pipe (BAD)
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:27 PM   #72
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I just put a sheet of ReflectX from Menards, lay a layer down and tape it into place to secure it. It's like corrugated plastic (like PC anti-static bag consistency) A/C duct insulation. I covered everything from the outside edges of the floor, up a foot on the firewall for both seats and up and over the transmission tunnel under the center console. It works so well I only see heat in the foot wells under heavy boost, and only during the boosting.

My next plan is to put a home-made heatshield between the downpipe and transmission tunnel by the peddles, I think that'll stop any residual heat.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:08 PM   #73
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I just put a sheet of ReflectX from Menards, lay a layer down and tape it into place to secure it. It's like corrugated plastic (like PC anti-static bag consistency) A/C duct insulation. I covered everything from the outside edges of the floor, up a foot on the firewall for both seats and up and over the transmission tunnel under the center console. It works so well I only see heat in the foot wells under heavy boost, and only during the boosting.

My next plan is to put a home-made heatshield between the downpipe and transmission tunnel by the peddles, I think that'll stop any residual heat.
I picked this up Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot

It is not intended for cars but I carry a good fire extinguisher

Ironically it has been too darn hot to work on the car
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:10 PM   #74
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It is not intended for cars but I carry a good fire extinguisher
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:27 PM   #75
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OMG!!! That's an awesome pic !!

Ok I'll get an even bigger fire extinguisher
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:03 PM   #76
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That's the stuff I've been telling people about. It works well.
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Old 09-05-2013, 06:21 PM   #77
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That's the stuff I've been telling people about. It works well.
How big a piece did you use and where did you stick it. Did you place it right above the DP ?

I'm also messing around with regular glass mat painted with high heat paint.
I lay it right on the turbo and it does not burn.

It gets too hot to the touch but I don't know if it serves any purpose like that.
I guess that if it gets that hot it does radiate heat.
It might act like a single sheet of metal heat shield (?)
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:00 PM   #78
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How big a piece did you use and where did you stick it. Did you place it right above the DP ?
On the firewall and trans tunnel adjacent to downpipe/exhaust. I cleaned the surface with solvent to degrease it, then stuck it right on. That was over a year ago and it hasn't moved.
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Old 09-06-2013, 01:27 PM   #79
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On the firewall and trans tunnel adjacent to downpipe/exhaust. I cleaned the surface with solvent to degrease it, then stuck it right on. That was over a year ago and it hasn't moved.
Thanks that's good news !
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #80
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Funny : I bypassed the heater core when I dropped in the turbo because I never liked the heat always on and after the turbo install, the proximity of the heater hoses to the turbo.
In the winter there has been enough residual heat coming in the cabin.
Once I get all this insulation stuff on I may just be cold in the winter.
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