How R you keeping the heat out of cabin?
#82
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 810
Total Cats: -6
I don't think the aluminum tape nor the glue on it will burn much especially on the transmission...
Check it when you change oil etc to make sure it won't come loose and ball up on to the drive shaft
Last edited by poobs; 09-06-2013 at 08:46 PM. Reason: clarify
#83
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
Crusher is not exactly a fair weather car or a trailer queen, those guys are not afraid of getting it dirty or driving in the rain. I agree though, I too am curious as to how its held up, or if he has any other materials recommendations. The Crusher thread would probably be the place to ask. Emilio is usually pretty good about answering, but I think they are still out in Utah?
#85
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,664
Total Cats: 3,013
I use exhaust wrap on my downpipe also. And some re-purposed factory heat shield tin from the Miata and others. A lot of pickup trucks have 2.5-3in diameter exhaust with factory heat shielding at the u-pull-it junkyard.
#86
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 810
Total Cats: -6
The OEM style tin shield held directly by the pipe itself is a great move. I looked at my stock exhaust pipe and considered removing the shield but it looks like the shape and diameter will be a problem.
Right now I'm not too keen on using header tape.
#88
Here's a solution for the transmission tunnel from a local miata shop.
Mainly works on street cars, so sounds like this is a cheap easy and effective way to go.
What it is: http://www.designengineering.com/cat...und-insulation
Where he's selling it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miatamecca-I...-/390436403927
Last edited by Nagase; 09-11-2013 at 03:46 AM.
#89
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,664
Total Cats: 3,013
You should protect the throttle cable, speedo cable, and maybe the dipstick handle (mine melted and ruined my oil pump and turbo bearings). The brake valves and lines are important to keep cool also.
#90
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
That's pretty slick. I would imagine starting on the drivers side (possibly at the fraimrail) would be more effective, especially with the big *** unshielded 2.5-3" turbo exhaust. He didn't cover cleaning surface prep though, and that would be my big concern.
If/when I pull my front subframe out, I'm definitely putting a sheet of that stuff in the tunnel, and cutting up another one to run up the firewall.
If/when I pull my front subframe out, I'm definitely putting a sheet of that stuff in the tunnel, and cutting up another one to run up the firewall.
#92
Elite Member
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Very NorCal
Posts: 10,441
Total Cats: 1,899
I wonder how the edges hold up over time. I'd be tempted to seal them up by folding over the edge with DEI Cool-Tape to keep it from delaminating, or use a sealant like what's used on firesleeve:
Of course, I tend to overthink and over complicate these things
Of course, I tend to overthink and over complicate these things
#94
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 810
Total Cats: -6
The stuff I used is a $22. and change at the local Home Despot.
Mine was a bear to install because of the stuff in the way.
Agree - the Miata has always needed more insulation and tends to be hot even with the top down.
Mine was a bear to install because of the stuff in the way.
Agree - the Miata has always needed more insulation and tends to be hot even with the top down.
#96
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 810
Total Cats: -6
I tried a small strip right on top of the turbo heat shield and went for a few errands on a 90 degree day ....
When I got home I popped the hood real quick and took some readings.
So basically the foam coated insulation did not melt despite getting placed right on top of the turbo hot side of the heat shield. It also cut down the temperature by about 100 degrees. Note that the piece that I stuck on top of the heat shield is about 1 inch wide so I'm guessing that some heat goes around the material.
Still, the R value is only 3
I'm planning on doing the entire heat shield.
Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot
When I got home I popped the hood real quick and took some readings.
So basically the foam coated insulation did not melt despite getting placed right on top of the turbo hot side of the heat shield. It also cut down the temperature by about 100 degrees. Note that the piece that I stuck on top of the heat shield is about 1 inch wide so I'm guessing that some heat goes around the material.
Still, the R value is only 3
I'm planning on doing the entire heat shield.
Frost King E/O 12 in. x 15 ft. Self-Stick Foam/Foil Duct Insulation-FV516 at The Home Depot
#98
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 810
Total Cats: -6
I'm going to slap some more when I get a chance.
See pic if it loads
Last edited by poobs; 09-19-2013 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Adding photo
#100
I used similar stuff made by Thermotec on my tunnel. I didn't trust the adhesive to hold up on the track so I put a small pop rivet and fender washer at each corner. I don't like the full location of his install because it leaves bare metal right next to the header/downpipe where your right foot needs to be. I folded mine down around the floor a bit and concentrated on where the radiant heat from the downpipe would be closest to my right foot and leg.
Keeping the heat from soaking into the tub should be the goal to keep overall cabin temperatures down but the NBs (perhaps other generations too?) have a nice foam and foil insulation piece that is formed to the inside of the tunnel next to the driver's right leg. It is attached to the carpet and pretty rigid. I harvested it from the carpet set of the donor car and taped it to the tunnel with foil tape.
Insulating both sides of the tunnel took me from heat rash on my right calf during early shakedowns to relative comfort and only cost a few ounces of low center weight.
I also have scraps of the thermotec material on the master cylinder reservoir, brake line, throttle cable and heater hose return. The most impressive results were to wrap the air box and intake into the turbo. With a DIY dryer duct from the air dam to the air box, I am getting ambient IAT pre-turbo. If I let it idle hot, it will soak up a few degrees but go right back down when the car starts moving again. A few pics:
Keeping the heat from soaking into the tub should be the goal to keep overall cabin temperatures down but the NBs (perhaps other generations too?) have a nice foam and foil insulation piece that is formed to the inside of the tunnel next to the driver's right leg. It is attached to the carpet and pretty rigid. I harvested it from the carpet set of the donor car and taped it to the tunnel with foil tape.
Insulating both sides of the tunnel took me from heat rash on my right calf during early shakedowns to relative comfort and only cost a few ounces of low center weight.
I also have scraps of the thermotec material on the master cylinder reservoir, brake line, throttle cable and heater hose return. The most impressive results were to wrap the air box and intake into the turbo. With a DIY dryer duct from the air dam to the air box, I am getting ambient IAT pre-turbo. If I let it idle hot, it will soak up a few degrees but go right back down when the car starts moving again. A few pics: