But now that he's failed, its going to cost him an extra $10 to have a coated manifold than it needed to if he just did it right the first time.
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1 Attachment(s)
I've never seen any of the home coating kits work worth a fuck. There's no way around it, you're farming the job out if you want it done right.
I didn't do Swain, but my shit is rated to 2500F, and i made it very clear to the shop that if this shit flaked off, they were in for a world of hurt, since it's coated inside and out, and i don't want that shit going through my turbo. They pretty much said "Do whatever the fuck you want, you aren't damaging that shit." $205 for the pieces you see there, including prep/blasting. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403617760 |
$10 says the coating flakes of the inside of the manifold within 2 months.
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and what happens when some of it flakes off somewhere on the inside where you can't really see that it broke off? you cry about it, threaten "world of hurt" and they just laugh and tell you to pound sand.
I see no point in coating the inside of hotparts. that said, its still 2 billion times better than what OP did |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1142760)
$10 says the coating flakes of the inside of the manifold within 2 months.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1142761)
and what happens when some of it flakes off somewhere on the inside where you can't really see that it broke off? you cry about it, threaten "world of hurt" and they just laugh and tell you to pound sand.
I see no point in coating the inside of hotparts. that said, its still 2 billion times better than what OP did Please note: I specifically voiced my concerns about coating the insides when i dropped off the parts, since i felt the same way, and was assured that it would not be a problem. They guaranteed the coating for life of the motor, with the idea that if i exceed the temp rating, my motor is fucked anyways. This isn't exactly a small time shop with no experience. They handle the coatings for most of the motors and stuff coming out of Gasoline Alley. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1142761)
and what happens when some of it flakes off somewhere on the inside where you can't really see that it broke off? you cry about it, threaten "world of hurt" and they just laugh and tell you to pound sand.
I see no point in coating the inside of hotparts. that said, its still 2 billion times better than what OP did |
Name of shop please. Would like to know all of my options.
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I've never actually seen rust inside that manifold, coated or not. For whatever that's worth.
Also hadn't rusted at all even on the outside since the last time i blasted it 18 months ago. The BeGi stuff on our Thooper Red Miata has similar looking coatings on the same parts, and it's holding up just fine. Not sure if the insides were done, though.
Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1142780)
Name of shop please. Would like to know all of my options.
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awesomeness
man, your build is like a rollercoaster...it goes from yay, to awww to ouch to damn to yay |
Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1142780)
Name of shop please. Would like to know all of my options.
Will be doing my coating. Small business guy, hard to get a hold of but, amazing work. (He did my roll bar) In all honesty this was just something to do for the downtime of the car. But put a blanket over the housing and don't have to worry about it :P
Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN
(Post 1142823)
awesomeness
man, your build is like a rollercoaster...it goes from yay, to awww to ouch to damn to yay Yup, that's my life. Just like my overheating issue now. And Fab9 CoPs spark blowout. Anyone selling an awesome radiator? I did a compression check today 140, ~130, 140, 115-120 :/ I'm a little upset about the numbers on this pretty new engine. But may have been due to not tightening the tester all the way (it got stuck in #1) |
those numbers look very low...and have more than 15% between them...right?
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Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN
(Post 1143287)
those numbers look very low...and have more than 15% between them...right?
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formula is CR*Atmospheric Pressure = Cylinder pressure
so 8.1*14.7(1BAR)=119.07psi so, you should be good... |
Except the swing between highest and lowest is still over 15%, which is not good.
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Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN
(Post 1143509)
formula is CR*Atmospheric Pressure = Cylinder pressure
so 8.1*14.7(1BAR)=119.07psi so, you should be good... |
i may have just took that out of my ass...
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Originally Posted by Alejo_NIN
(Post 1143526)
i may have just took that out of my ass...
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:laugh:
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i think it is also dependant on ring gap..being turbo having a loser gap is better for heat expansion a sopposed to na which benefits from tighter gaps.
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Test again on warm motor.
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