Twas warm, but it was after letting it cool so I could do CoPs.

I want to do it all again though, with a new tester (this one day in my trunk for a while), universally tightness, and no darkness/mosquitos passing me off.

I had to change my GM temp sensor that day and my coolant temp sensor too, but my coolant gauge in my cluster still wants to be on the downs.

Time for aftermarket 40mm?

But first things first, ignition issue needs solved. Or may be going back to stock coils for the time

My cluster coolant sensor didnt work either I somehow had a cut wire in the harness like way back where its 1 big tube of wires all taped up. No idea how the fuck it happened.

Really?
Yeah mine seems picky and choosy when it wants to work.
Most the time it's when engine is off, as soon as I start it it just plummet so I think its due from the vibration messing with the wires or something. Is funny sometimes it's in between working and not and goes crazy.

But I actually lied.
My main concern at this point is overheating, I need a ballsy radiator now, I have fans and going to get shroud fabbed up.

Also thinking about ducting the 2 smaller holes in my bumper to the radiator to bypass my massive intercooler

Yeah, thats what mine would do.

What did you end up doing, good sir?

I pulled on the wire on the harness side and found it pulled out, then I unwrapped the harness until I found the other end and connected it back together.

Yeah, noo. It's 93° out right now
I hear a 40mm gauge fits in there. And from what I remember the begi coolant reroute adapter has plugged sensor ports

Or if one is purely looking for rust-protection, Cerakote is a great option. Cheaper than Swain and super durable, you just won't get much (if any) thermal benefits.

-Zach

I ended up putting a VDO gauge in my cluster. And during the install is when I found that the wire was broken and not that the gauge was borked.

i wonder how shitty is this radiator?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

Dat weld for the rad neck. I would say it looks exactly like the ebay one except for that ugly ass weld. Just offer $110 and free shipping on a godspeed one on ebay.

i mean mishimoto should be the way to go...but on a budget...can't see how this isn't better than stock :)

I mean its got more thermal mass than stock but thats about it. I'm not convinced the ebay rads are actually any better at cooling than stock.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...adiator-78937/

No association but... 4 bills for a 4 month used NB TSE right here in our classifieds. Duct the shit out of it and win at radiator. No provision for AC fan doe...

You can fix that enough with one of the slim fans from silicone intakes.

Yep. Any halfass Clever Dan should be able to figure out how to make something work ;)

lol wut?
you do know 50% of the shit we do to our miatas are DIY half ass shit cuz nobody else makes it...

we are all "Clever Dan"s one way or another.

lol Leafy pointing it out ;)

I'm not on a budget. I want a ballsy radiator. But 400 is pushing it for a radiator even though they are 600 new.
I might as well find a place to buy the core. Everything else on my car is custom welded so far.
Anyone know any place for quality cores?

Yeah, I got 2 slim fans already. I should mount them to the stock rad for now but just seems like a waste.


My gauge decides to work when I turn off the car usually. So sick of not being able to go more than a 5mi radius.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403846554https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403846554

Stuck Thermostat?

do your fans come on? or does that only happen when the car is off too.

your car always seems to have had funky electrical issues.

how's your cooling system routed?

dude, you should know how to troubleshoot cooling system at this point. you're a big boy now!

Here are the top 6:

1. Upper radiator hose is warm but the coolant gauge is showing overheating?
   thermostat stuck closed
   
2. Idling the car the temperature climbs but driving is fine?
   fan don't come on
   
3. Car overheats at highway speeds but fine at idle?
   duct that shit
   
4. Car overheats at track straight while WOT
   get bigger radiator, duct that shit
   
5. Feet sprayed with boiling coolant?
   heatercore cracked
   
6. Replaced everything but car somehow still overheats?
   probably blew your headgasket

I personally never saw a water pump fail on a miata fail but its also possible

7. Your monstrous IC blocks the entire rad opening:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ss1fgeyi8-jpeg

IMO you should duct some air around your IC to get some fresh air to the rad since you will need to anyway even if there are other problems.

or get one of those begi pooper scoopers

ahh i see...i actually...i see no radiator.

air is supposed to go through the ic not around it. but if there's no shrouding it just goes wherever is the least resistence, and with that uggo gaping hole front bumper and no shrouding, I bet its a recipe for having a bad time

this is when too big is a bad thing ;)

but yea, needs more duct tape...duct tape to make ducts...

Hood needs more extractor as well. Think about it as adding more lightness!

And post hole digger to make holes for posts. /River

If there are ways for air to go through the mouth and not also go through the radiator then it is broken.

Not only that, but there needs to be a way for air to go through the mouth and NOT go through the IC before it gets to the rad. Right now it looks like everything that goes through the mouth will go through the IC. That means when you're in boost, your rad is being fed air that is approximately the same temp as the air entering the IC. It's hard for the rad to cool your coolant to 200F if it's only being fed air that is 200F.

the intercooler is not nearly that effective, the air will not be 200F after intercooler.

Asphalt temperature is 130 degrees easily here in the summer.

QFT

Also props for Firefly reference

The intercooler isn't your problem. If you can't drive the car more than ten miles out of boost and it's overheating, you've got something seriously wrong that ducting or whatnot can't fix.

Now if you're driving like a madman and overheating that's a different story. But if you can't piddle around without going over 210 then there's something else wrong. Go down Soviet's list and report back.

The intercooler absolutely is the problem. Before huge intercooler, no overheating issues. After huge intercooler, overheating issues.

That doesn't mean it can't work with the new IC, just that you need to get some fresh air to the radiator in addition to sealing it to the mouth. You don't need much, it's a HUGE opening you have there. For a wild ass guess I would say duct the bottom 2 inches of the mouth below the IC straight to the rad and it would be enough, but it's gotta see some fresh air. Look at the size of the opening Crusher uses, it's not very big and that's an endurance car.

what about radiator nitrous sprayer...

I still think if you're overheating with fans on within 5 miles of reasonable driving, you've got another problem, not just the intercooler.

Like... as a serious solution? Not a joke?

Dude just take one of the windshield wiper sprayers and relocate it to in front of the rad. Then when the car overheats, just hit your wiper sprayer and cool it down!

Or even better, everyone knows that an expanding gas cools as it goes from high pressure to low pressure. Well you have some high-pressure gas right in front of your radiator! Just drill a hole in the back of your intercooler to release some high pressure gas in front of your radiator and cool it down!

I hate when you try to reply using your phone and it just resets everything.

I'll reply back when I can address all.

I pretty sure it's airflow.

Fan (singular) wired constant. Because fail.

Typical coolant reroute

YOU'RE RIGHT I AM A BIG BOY NOW! hahahah come on Soviet, I'm not that :noob:.. everything gets HOT. Waterpump and thermostat are all practically new (almost everythings been replaced on this fucker)
It's airflow. With stock radiator, and AC condenser in the way, with one fan, and massive intercooler.

Exactly what I mentioned doing in an earlier post. I'm going to use the side port in the bumper and see if we can duct them.

I actually reealllly want to do this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403915195

Exactly nuge, but it is a new hot side setup too, coolant lines and stuff, but i doubt they're being superheated.

There isn't a bottom 2 inches to the mouth of the bumper. The IC LITERALLY mounts to the bumper(top and bottom) and creates ducting.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403915195
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403915195
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403915195
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...pseaevsa8p.jpg

There's always a way to clear out some space :fael:

You need to duct to the front of the opening of the mouth. Connect the radiator to the mouth, connect the intercooler straight back to the radiator, and duct the intercooler to the bumper too. BUT make 2 flaps that go to the front of the mouth from the intercooler that only end up with an opening 1/3rd the size of the intercooler core. You'll still get enough air through the intercooler but you'll get WAY more air to the radiator.

is that a stock radiator too?

That's what I think he said. Insert the emoticon for shooting yourself in the head.

yes, it is the stock one...lol.

The bumper is ducting into the intercooler. I just need to duct the radiator up to the bumper I think.
The IC is flush mounted to the bumper so all that is ducted into it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404057732
Except for around the end tanks and the 2 side holes in the bumper
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404057732
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404057732

All that room for ducting!
IC <space> AC Condenser > Radiator (with 1 stock fan).. It has to be airflow. I didn't think it would be this bad
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404057732


The car is drivable just have to use the heater and keep out of highway speeds. But this is Florida and I can't :dealwithit:


Other then that. The car is doing awesome with the stock coils.
My EWG has a huge spring in it though, I thought it was a 16psi one but I was hitting 20psi, before letting off, when actually going WOT.

Perhaps you should go full Bosozoku and just put the radiator in front of your bumper. When you think about it, it makes sense. Why put a nice radiator in the engine bay where girls can't see it? Plus, your dirty clothed fabricator can probably make you a tailpipe in the shape of a six foot tall penis. You can't lose!

:O He actually tossed me the idea of making my oil catch can in the shape of a penis.

I like the way you think!

No I mean you need to make flaps on the IC that come from the sides of the core and angle in so that only 1/3 of it is open to the air, thats still enough air for the IC but it'll direct more around it.

That's sounds awkward and bazaar. I can see how it would work. Have you seen any examples?

You're gonna have a bad day.


Any time you can see the ground in front of the A/C condenser you are going to have a bad day.

Winner winner chicken dinner!

How would you guys wire in the fans?

Preferably with electrical wire, power and ground works pretty well for me. :party:

Delphi Weatherpack connectors with crimp + solder on the pins. Though solder under the hood usually causes wailing and gnashing of teeth from the peanut gallery around here.

Since my MS doesn't like to turn the fan on, I was thinking constant on with ignition w/ relay supplied with main power from alternator or engine fuse box to run fans.
Eventually wiring in the MS to turn them on with coolant temp. Whenever I'm not lazy, which will be never for wiring.

Ohhhhhhh, Okay! Where get electrical wire? ARTech make it? :P

you could set the temp lower on the ms to turn on the relay sooner, can't you?