nope. the c-clamp holds the backing plate to the chra. the comp cover is held on by bolts
that o-ring is between backnig plate and cover
unless I'm completely mistaken about what turbo he has

*edit:

like this
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409770416

yea, you are right.
i was thinking more of a turbo that doens't have those bolts on the back...sorry..carry on.

hello impuls you are going to need the matching mazdaspeed compressor A/C bracket in order to fit the smallerMazdaspeed compressor unit in your NB. The compressor pulley in mazdaspeed compressor is about an inch longer therefore it will not align to the crank pulley , trust me on this dude.

Yeah I thought I had the MSM bracket but on my inspection today it turns out I don't :(
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409945255

I also wanted to look closer into my now returned weird noise. Since I stumbled upon another person with the same issue and he replaced his pinion outer bearing. But the noise comes from the pinion area for sure.
So I put the car up in the air to look at everything and went through the gears
A bit rich on decel and at 2:30 nice pop and the only exciting thing
[Url]
Looked closer and after going through gears and hearing it start out it in 5th and idle to keep speed.
[Url]

nasty shit is nasty...holy fuck dude...

Yup, how do you think I feel. That shit was gorgeous when it went it.

Fuck oil pan gaskets.

lmao...RTV nig

Has that. Still decided to leak.

Now me and the mad scientist have to rip apart the block, and replace the gaskets that never sealed.
Also clean that bitch off.

oh fucking sucks....

No gaskets other than OEM end seals.

I also recommend this stuff:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410312292

Of course, you may never get the pan off again :giggle:

its sucks not doing something correctly from the start.

but that's what this whole thread is about, and now you're learning :)

Shouldn't there be a bolt right under that water pump coolant pipe? I swear there should be a bolt there securing the oil pump if you are missing a/c. might not be your oil pan gasket, but oil leaking from that hole

If you have a/c there, there's generally a bolt there as one of the bolts holding the compressor on.

That is a very good point. How long has the compressor bracket been off the engine? You may be seeping because you are missing said bolt.

Checkit: https://www.miataturbo.net/1337-spea..._______-34796/

My 1.8 VVT engine with factory installed oil pump started leaking because I didn't replace that bolt when I removed the AC compressor bracket. Started out very slow but is now coating that corner of the engine quickly. Replacing that bolt is now on my to do list.

I personally like the Ultra Black series of sealant. That's what's been used.
For whatever reason something didn't seal or hot blown out when I was trying to start it for 3 weeks straight and when it finally started it leaked.


Meh, I didn't put the oil pan on.
So there's a lesson there.
I'll be happy if someone can pull anything out of my build. Helping each other is what it's about.


The bolt idea is interesting, I never noticed any oil from there though I'll check though thanks for the heads up.
One question which one are you talking about? The one facing forward on the engine?
I thought my bracket was still on there but I'm guessing that after the machine shop ranked it and what not it disappeared.
Attachment 184687

?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410558085

You see that round thing jutting out of the front of the engine block on the left of this picture? Its the aluminum colored thing. Yeah there should be a bolt going though it. Its like M8x1.25x85mm JIS.

Its suppose to be an M8x1.25 x45mm

correct. you're missing one of the oil pump bolts

Well shit, thats not cool at all. O.o
I wonder if one of these will work?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410577481

if you're hoping to use the same bolt that you had in there that was holding the compressor bracket, you'll either have to cut it down, or just get a new, shorter one.

get what fail wagon said to get and you'l be good to go

I just used one from my bucket of bolts and cut it to size.

I have you all beat in the "jesus christ you are a lazy fucker" department

2am solution:

Attachment 238883

:party:

:laugh:

Propz sir. Brilliant.

It was actually Gesso's idea, the 11mm socket is on his Exocet :party:

45mm is the correct length. Longer than that will bottom out and require a washer or two.

IIRC I just ordered mine from mazda because its a specific length and the standard sizes to either side are either too long or too short and from mazda it was the same money as buying the 5 or whatever I would have had to get from mcmaster.

gimme your paypal, imma send you 5$

I put a 40mm bolt in there right now barely threads but the hardware store wasn't open.
I'll get the 45mm but you guys are scaring me with this.

I found a boost leak yesterday while over at some miata buddies house, they were doing 1.6>1.8 breaks, I was fucking off like usual.
The little VTCS electric valve I think or something on the back of the intake manifold was leaking boost bad. So I plugged the ports going to that.
Still only 10psi, Maybe wastegate spring "settled"?

BUT
Also, when all else fails I developed a weird issue...
Usually only after start up and drive for a bit, hit boost a few times and it goes away. But tonight coming home from work after idling to jump a persons car it did it ALL the way home. (like 1.7mi :P)

But partial throttle, AFRs skyrocketed.
It also did this the night I looked for my boost leak. After I left my friends house to go home. Car jerked and bucked. Didn't see too much AFR's then though.

I never fail you guys! Issues ALLTHETIME.

Do yourself a favor, buy a new whole car wire harness and put it in your car. replace the whole thing.

all of these issues you've had over the last.... since OP.... could have been avoided since you have ratty wiring.

I don't see how anything correlates to "ratty wiring" when it's just a stock harness. :facepalm: O2 system is wired in fine. That's the only thing I could imagine messing up anything. Nothing else has been modified really besides extending the coolant sensor wires.
Don't get me wrong, I'd love to just tear apart the car and start new. But no garage.:crx:

The car is undrivable now. Vacuum leak or something.
Was going to go grab that 45mm bolt go to start it and datalog see if what happened last night will happen after cold start and... yeah you can say it did
I took a datalog of idle then I tried to drive around a bit

Just pops and putters with load. I tried looking for a Vacuum leak by spraying around everywhere with no luck.

If you don't have a MAF, vacuum leak won't/shouldn't do that.

It's air density/MAP only.
What would cause -14inHg idle?

I'm going to test fuel pressure as well.

I'm going to be pissed if this is just "bad fuel" since I just switched gas stations I fill at.

A vac leak could cause those numbers at idle, but it probably won't make your car actually idle like shit.

Now on the other hand, your car idling like shit can and will give bad vac numbers.

Fun, huh?

Y u do dis 2 me?

I'm checking fuel. Double checking timing and spark plugs.

This seemed to be a progressive thing the past 3 days and now today it's just bad.

you check for leaks around the injectors? like an o-ring?

-14 at idle is not good, and sounds like a pretty massive leak

Yeah I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. Upper manifold, TB, braje booster lines, injectors/rail, vacuum lines even all the way inside to the MS.

It seemed like I could hear a hissing but it could of been the shit idle.

Just for shit and giggles I started disconnecting coils.

Get to #4 > disconnect > runs better > connect runs worse > disconnect again > runs better.
Still have to check it out. Going to pull the plug and probably get an inspection camera in there, along with typical compression check and shit.
I'm a little scared now.

So it runs better on 3 than it does on 4?

/boggle

-shrug-

Cyl #4
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410987532

Spark plug #4
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410987532

time for comp/leakdown test

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411012908

I then tested spark. Fun little tool in MS I must say. Played with dwell and rpm.
#4 spark plug is very shitty spark.
All the others were spot on. I increased dwell and it cleared up some carbon and made #4 spark well but the engine still runs like shit.
I should of switched the plug around to test.

Tomorrow I'm going to compresson test ALLOFTHEM and probably replace the plugs with IK22's or BKR7Es that are cut to fit the coils.

Interesting fact: I found another plug to use besides BKR7E's where the insulator and actual end are different. Same 7 heat range but doesn't come out as far. The v8 drag guys use them here.
Here's the part number and link for info. NGK 4091 R5671A-7 Racing Plug

can you please tell me in what universe comp testing 1 cylinder alone has any meaning whatsoever?

do you seriously never do anything properly?

you literally half ass EVERY single thing you do.

lol don't take this the wrong way, I'm not even mad. its just really amusing

Listen here bitch. :dealwithit: It was 11pm at night and I wanted to be sure the cylinder has compression.
And fuck mosquitos. hard. sideways.

Haha, I never have time for shit these days, nor the patients.

:laugh: patients?
are you a doctor?

I might be.
You wanna fuck?

I thought so.

So, I'm having an awesome day. Car didn't start now, laptop won't connect to MS, and I'm not liking my compression numbers right now.
I expect the starting problem is from flooded cylinders of seaform so I'm letting them "air out"

Time to a leakdown test.
JUST TO MAKE VLAD HAPPY:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411147682
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411147682
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411147682
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411147682

So, it does seem like cyl 4 is a little bit sad... What did the leakdown test show? Or are you just saying it's time for a leakdown test now that you properly did a compression test?

lol I think he called the comp test a leakdown test

he just loves it when I correct all his mis-types and posts :giggle:

yeah, doesn't look too good, bummer.

I'm guessing that's a low reading tester too, but still doesn't change the fact that there is a 20% variation in #4

did you even do the compression test with WOT?

No I haven't been able to do a leakdown test. It's been raining all day here in Tampa and I had to deal with other things.

Swapped in some IK22's.
Started up fine. Did some seafoam, and found the manifold/turbo flange gasket blew out. So time to remove that gasket anyways the flanges were already trued so it was kinda pointless to have the gaskets.
Drove the car around and it runs pretty lean anywhere in WOT load, So I didn't do many pulls though.

aren't you supposed to run the comp test with a warm engine?
your rings won't seal as good with them cold.

also, throw in some oil and see if comp gets better.

Yup.

What, did you want me to rub the engine till it's warm?
It's probably why the compression numbers were so low.
It runs now but has misfire still going to gap down the plugs more.
Do a warm compression test and get around to this leak down.

About the oil thing.
Supposedly, the Mystery Oil stuff works best to do that.
An engine builder was saying instead of the seafoam(I was using to clear up carbon) use it and it's what all the guys around here are doing. Helps the rings seal or something.

He meant put oil in they cylinders during the compression test to see if it brought the numbers up. ATF works better than MMO if you're trying to do a top end ring soak.

Okay that's what I always thought. Using ATF for the rings. I did a dab in each cyl when the engine was built for break-in.

So warm compression numbers are here and not looking any better. :/
Attachment 184672


Also got a video of the now very shitty idle and smoke out the exhaust(when rpms decrease) meaning valve/seals, correct?

Also have video's of how it doesn't like blipping the throttle or increasing the rpms.

that motor needs to come out and apart.

you blew that engine..