I kind of recall that with my Fidanza.

Went to the shop today and picked up everything. Everything looks great and we talked about and clarified the "problems"
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372437119

This honestly looks like a good reason to oil squirters
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372437119


This was exactly what he was talking about, but he didn't want to mess up anything of mine by threading it or forcing it in.
As you can see it's a very tight fit. They are not threaded either.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372437119

At the end of the day, the importance of balancing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372437119

what pistons are those?

Weisco

Sexy huh?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372438922

Actually, the holes on those pistons are a good reason not to have oil squirters. They allow more oil than usual to enter the oil control ring, and are really designed for motors that do not have oil shot under the piston.

Compare those pistons to stock pistons, and you will see what I am talking about.

I may not understand how more oil to that hole = bad. lube = good in most cases.
But I was also talking about the oil relieve ports on the side of the piston. I figure they'd benefit from oil squirters.

When I got my rotation assembly I decided to inspect things. Mainly how they put my harmonic balancer together.
I l was wondering if it seems right? Also there are 2 markings on the balancer which I'm assuming are timing marks?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372653416

The "marks" are around the 5th tooth in the picture.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372653416

Yup, those are the timing marks in the last picture. Paint marker them a contrasting color so it'll be easier to set timing. They're harder to see than the marks in the stock wheel.

Is there suppose to be 2? I don't remember that on the stock wheel.
You can get a paint marker from Wal-Mart? I was just going to use white-out.

Yes there are 2 stock. IRRC one should like of with the T and the other the 10 if the timing is on factory. White out might be hard to see. I think I used black sharpie on mine.

This video is private.

Well the engine is being put together. Hopefully I'll have it back on the road next week, well more like the week after thanks to the good ol military.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373555177

I hate how small the ihi rh55 is:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373555177

I'm sorry about all the shit phone pictures. The whole engine build has been capped with a real camera though so after everything is finished I'll make a histogram/progress collection of all of them. Depending if I'd ever not be driving it. :P

So I was expecting to be finished with the motor and put in the car buy Friday/This weekend.
But the machinist doing some headword is taking Thursday-Sunday off for his birthday. Selfish bastard! :facepalm:
Bottom end is all together though. So smooth you can turn it with your hand.
So next week will be when I can complete everything.

I've been wondering about converting various line to AN but I don't believe it would be worth it at this current stage. Thoughts?
Is there any knowledge anyone would like to pass on?

I been gathering various other maintenance items as well. I got Trackspeed Engineering sending me SS clutch line and 2 qts of Amsoil MTG for my 6 speed. I always cringed going into 3rd.

I acquired my "harbor freight det can" awhile back but still require the resistor, audio wire, and sensor(not sure if I want to use my old one). It's pretty nice gadget though comes in a nice case too.

So here's some porting/engine porn:

Porting:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496

Engine assembly:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374119496

looks like an awesome build I cannot wait to see how that EFR turbo works out. Did you decide to keep the squirters or not? I would be interested to know. On a general scale I have not made up my mind on squirters in a stock application they work great with the pistons they were designed for. I can say for an old honda engine I had with wiseco pistons with the same holes you have I belive the oil squirters caused the oil rings to get gunked up super fast as in 25,000 miles. It was a mild build NA on stock rods with high compression pistons I put new rings in it after they failed the first time and blocked off the squirters and put another 50k on the car before it was sold never smoked again so I dont know if I would trust them. Just a thought.

I'm keeping the oil squirters. I'd say the piston's oil relieve ports will make use of them. Also keep the temps down a bit maybe. Removing something that's meant to help makes no sense to me.

In for "my car makes too much power for the drivetrain"

What fuel will you be running?

Haha :P aren't you running an 6-speed too?

I want to run e-85 but the AirForce base doesn't offer it for POVs. Only government vehicles :/ I'm going to try and send a request up to our base commander though. Till then I'm running on dinosaurs.

well you got pistons and rods and headwork to work even with dinosaurs so no biggie.

but if you really wanna start testing the torque capacity of that 6 speed you need to get with dat corn :party:

Yeah! no kidding they have places here in Tampa with it but none close to me everything is pretty out of the way :/ I still have to do some more reading on converting a fuel system to E-85 anyways.

I won't be able to run ALLOFIT :( Need dat corn fed.
I was thinking water/ meth injection though.

Is this how you do it?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375236067
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375236067

My valve cover is amazing.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375236067

Ah, everything looks so clean before you start abusing it

I took leave all this week to get this thing running.
and of course my luck shows.

I haven't taken the final pictures yet but here I took during the week:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292

The finished product is a lot better then those pictures make it to be. I need to get rid of those danmed red vacuum lines.

There's a while list of things that went wrong.
missing hardware because people fucked with my shit. Luckily we were able to acquire said hardware.
So after everything was bolted up and rechecked torque. Filed with coolant. Leaks, leaks all around the back. Coolant reroute w/ Kai waterneck and spacer.
So I figured we needed to just torque it down more. Yup it snapped. going to just a Fuck ton of RTV next time.
Also, no first start. I got ignition twice and that was it. the connection between my laptop and Megasquirt was compete shit. my laptops charger is broken now and also.
We forgot about the oil pressure sender.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292

No luck ever getting the MS to connect to the computer again. So I put it on the trailer and took it tu my place till I get the parts I need and this sit happens.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375563292

Front strap broke then back strap broke trying to hold it during those giving mountains of speedbumps.

So I've had a GREAT week with the car.

Holy crap well I hope it gets better from here.

Well I just got the car to start.
Something is fucked though, I have to keep my foot on the th so it doesn't die and my AFR gauge is leaned out 19.9 jumping to 14.8 sometimes, and Megasquirt isn't getting an AFR signal.

Sounds like a wiring/ fuel problem to me.
Also my gas gauge since I put the Walboro in is saying empty :/
I hate automotive electrics.

Here's a video of what my fucker does on start up.
I have to hold the RPM with the throttle so it doesn't die. Horrible idle vaccum. Oh also I checked timing with the help of someone holding the throttle...

In my .msq my timing is set to fixed timing 10 degrees...
My timing like is showing my timing at 0 degrees, As in:

Block indicators:
|-----10-----T------------|
My crank timing points as my timing light shows
|------------10-----T-----|
Exactly like that.

Also as you can see in the video my AFR Gauge is giving me a [3] which is " an sensor error code. Please check if the sensor is disconnected or defective."
So I guess my wideband went out. Figures. It wasn't giving a really good reading before.


So as you guys can see, My luck never stops with cars. I may burn her to the ground.

Looks like its running on 2 cylinders. Check if all cylinders are sparking and getting fuel. Put like, a credit card or something under the throttle stopper so it holds idle and unplug spark wires to see if it changes in idle.

Also, ETA on 7163?

Okay, I thought it sounded weird but thought it was because of the idle. I'll check that out, plugs are new and I wouldn't think it only firing on 2 cyl would cause the timing to be +10 degrees.
It may be my ignition settings also. 32-1 toothed wheel and such.


It this continues like this probably never haha. I don't know though. They were suppose to "release" this month and then ship out September I haven't gotten any word about them though.

I'm thinking all this is from my toothed wheel being mounted wrong..
I'm not sure since when I asked for help on the tune and if the machine shop assembled this right no one said anything.

Old pictures:
10 Degree and T (note crank key slot)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376377128


Missing tooth location (note crank key slot again):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376377128

This doesn't seem like my missing tooth at 80 degrees BTDC setting. Which I was afraid of this since I wasn't sure if the superdamper + tooth wheel can only go together one way
Also if I'm only running on 2 cylinders like it sounds, it seems I'm in the same boat as this guys thread "https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...linders-68724/"

Have you done reading up on tooth wheels and how an ECU reads them?

If you have don't read the below as it's teaching you how to suck eggs..

The ECU sees the missing tooth and goes "right, coming up is TDC"... it knows where TDC is due to what you program it to do. Crank the engine by hand with a 22mm socket on the crankbolt, imagine what the sensor is seeing - is it seeing the missing tooth shortly before no1 is at TDC? If so then you need to look at your settings in tuner studio.

You can get an engine to run with the missing tooth say 320degrees before tdc but you're relying too much on the engine swinging round that far without the ECU loosing sync - in practice with voltage drop etc an engine that has the missing tooth more than 120degrees before TDC can have issues on low battery voltages whilst starting (I do a lot of complete loss race cars here in the UK and even when running on a low battery voltage some ECU's crap themselves if they have to hold sync for too long).

I'd say check the above, check your settings and THEN look at spark outputs etc - you don't want to petrol wash those bores...

Dan

Looks like a solid project.

No machine work on the block?

Thanks, Yes I've done a lot of reading of the missing tooth wheel ignition. I just made the mistake of relying on the balancing machine shop on the install of the trigger wheel.
Could you explain the petrol wash the bore though? I understand if the ignition is wrong it won't fire and will run rich. And therefore flooding the engine? ( if that's what your getting at)


Medicine work on block and head
If you look at the pictures of the block you'll notice diamond bore and hone. Really awesome stuff.

When you have a misfire like this due to ignition, you wash the cylinder walls with raw fuel.

Which is bad.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332754515

This is the trigger wheel (OEM 36-1) I run and the setting is somewhere 80-100*, I don't remember. You're forgetting that the crank sensor is offset, so when engine is at TDC the sensor is at like 60*

I'm removing the pully once I get off work. I need to make sure for safe of mind.
Mine just looks like its wrong for missing tooth at 80° (the setting I have)

By the looks of yours it has that key way, I remember if mine has that. Also mine may be mounted backwards if you notice my pictures the missing tooth is on the opposite side of yours.
I may be paranoid. When I checked timing 1-4 fire fine. Very stable flash from the timing light.
2-3 is erratic. I did this just to check if my coils were firing.
MSM coil over plug wasted spark system if anyone didn't know.

Is the crank keyway facing up at TDC? <-- Stupid question I know figuring we just but my engine together.

Here's how it looks with timing marks lined up:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376543668

I'm acquiring a puller tomorrow to remove it.

Are you sure your timing belt is on correctly?

I can always double check when I have the pully off. I watched it go on and we caught it being 1 tooth off before. Everything lined up from what I remember.

What happens if it's off by a tooth? I haven't ever read up on it.

1 tooth isn't likely to cause the issues you're seeing. It'd have to be pretty wrong to do this. I somewhat doubt it's your issue, but it's pretty easy to check just to rule it out.


My race motor was timed really wrong, and ran something like this. Only ran on 3 cylinders out of 6. (Front bank only, back bank just backfired and shot fire out of the throttles.) Turns out it was running at all only through dumb luck.

I kinda doubt you could fuck up timing a BP bad enough for that, though.

True, I'm defiantly going to check every is correct again.

For now though my question is how the hell do you remove the super dampener?
I rented a puller from auto store. The bolts aren't long enough, and pretty sure that enough force will just strip the holes.

Did you get a 2/3 jaw puller?

Yup it only came with 5/16ths 18x2" thought. I went tu the hardware store thought and hit a 2 1/2", pulling it off right now

Is this true? I never did this
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...e2/#post976776

So, the missing tooth needs to be at 80° after the sensor at TDC. and I need to grind off the 2 teeth on the cam wheel. maybe it's because of that and my settings set up for sequential (needs cam signal) that it ran like shit? I'm checking timing marks for TDC and this what I got:
TDC:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376611353
Cam timing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376611353

Fuck.

Batch fueling doesn't work. Starts then instantly dies.

I may take the leap and just grind those teeth off.

Though I found out the output>ECU from my AFR controller took a shit. Keeps reading 1.6v or -1.2v and shit. Going to talk to prosport about it when I can.

Dude, you need to read & understand megasquirt trigger wheel settings. The car should run in batch/wasted spark. If it doesn't run in batch/wasted spark, you have issues. Get it running in batch/wasted spark first.

Megasquirt-3 MS3 Trigger Wheel

Yeah I know it SHOULD run on batch.
I've read about toothed wheel over and over again, I have a form understanding of it now.

I believe my Megasquirt got fried :/ it's showing 0.30 AFR at -1.24v with my AFR controller signal at 5.12v when the ignition is on. Which may be another result of my cigarette lighter going out frying my laptop's charging cable.
This really sucks.. it's a MS2PNP for 99. I'm sure there's a way to take it apart and check. off to take it out.

Sequential and batch logs..
The car battery died today from all the starting. Had everything in batch and started and ran for about 5 seconds though it's progress. But you can see I get sync loss reason 2. Missing tooth in wrong place.

I had sync loss when my cam sensor was wired in reverse. You may need to change 'rising edge' to 'falling edge' or vice versa.

Run the trigger logger. you should see 35 bars, gap, 35 bars, gap, etc...
MS2/Extra - Tooth and trigger loggers

Yeah in the composite logs I posted I have that 35, gap, 35, gap.

I'll give that rising edge or falling edge a try. when ever I find out whats wrong with my actual MS. :/ The circuits may have gotten damaged. The only one I know for sure isn't working is reading AFR input.

Any experts on the schematics and what shiuld be tested?
I'm wondering if DIY will do a warranty type swap on it or if that just doesn't exist.

Change the rising edge/falling edge and see if it works.
Also you might need to adjust the pots on megasquirt.

I found this fucker. DB15 pin 14 (O2 sensor) leads to this..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1377127848

I learned my lesson to get the programming first, on a naturally aspirated motor before going all out on a build.

Its too late, the build looks good, be patient, if this is your DD, you should start checking CL for another to get you from point A to B.

Good luck on the build

I feel ya for the wideband, the same thing happened to me. Had to unplug/ disconnect everything and send it back to warranty. It pushed me back about a week, and similarly I had taken time off from work, I was furious. Moments like that you have to let go, and stop working on the car else it will end in the "part out" sub-forums.

The programming was fine before. I don't know what you're trying to say by "it's too late". I chose to build it out 7-8 months ago after it ran fine.

Shit happens and you gotta fix it.

Well, I can now run sequential.
Still waiting on DIYautotune to send back my ECU. I suppose they are still testing it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378336424

It does not sound that way by the questions you are asking...

Explain

Alright so,
I have idle problems consisting of oscillation and/or stall/dying.

Been doing some research on the subject but if anyone would like to point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.

I still get sync loss reason 2, and now reason 5 (first tooth failed test) but I think reason 5 is from my battery dying once again from cranking.
:facepalm:


I know the attached log is pretty horrible but my battery died. My idle is for sure "surging" or "oscillating" though. can't seem to figure out why or what to do.

Idle tuning is tricky. Anything being off will kill idle. Do a bit of VE analyze live in order to make sure your general fuel map is OK, injectors work etc. Then get to the idle.

By idle you mean idle control valve? Can the car idle with just the adjustment screw? That should be the first step - disconnect the idle control valve and just the screw.

Good to know that grinding those nubs off the cam wheel works. As far as I know, you're the first one who actually did it.

VE live is about impossible to do since my AFR takes long to calibrate when turned on. I need to source an external one/tail pipe sniffer.

I did the idle valve test. nothing changed with idle. Bad IAC Valve?
I'll try unplugging it just for kicks. if I can Getty it to idle somewhat I'm going to check for vacuum leaks too.
I'm doing a fresh slate install right now; reload firmware, reload basemap tune.