Wut?

My AFR gauge has to calibrate everytime you turn it on and it doesn't idle long enough before it dies. Plus using VE live to tune idle is stupid. Wut is teh problem? :dealwithit:


I tested idle with and without the IAC. It idled and stays running with the IAC disconnected.
Video for better explanation.. be warned horrible quality.
IAC Disconnected actually holding idle.


I'll supply tune file and the datalogs if it helps.
I checked for vacuum leaks, whilst idling, with carb cleaner. I got nothing.


It's kinda funny looking at scatter plots of the idle making an oval..

Could be spark, ve, afr.
Try and get it somewhat stable at around 1300 or so by cracking the throttle open using the set-screw. Idle valve disconnected.
Then slowly lower RPMs and keep tuning.

Alright so!
The car runs and drives now, ended up being a multitude of things and at the very end just being needing to scale the VE higher.
Thanks Stefanat for that suggestion on my other thread.

From all the cranking my front crank seal kinda.. have up? leaks like crazy when running:

And I'm wanting to track the reason down why my MS interprets my AFR signal as crazy oscillations.
Here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...57#post1066557

Changed shifter bushings and whatnot so since I have 6 speed greatness I changed my gear oil as well to Amsoil MTG

6Speed greatness: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382804376

No so great:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382804376

is that a bb on your magnet? ahhhhh....

Yeahhh... it came out of my transmission?
Very sad
It hasn't exploded thankfully. Yet.

I may need one of those badass oil catch cans/ breather boxes. Or the new cap seal I ordered will fix this. It happens after any boost is seen. Obviously gets worse.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383138168

Time to drill a hole in the block like a man.

I see you have the car idling now, but thought I would share this in case it helps you dial things in....

I have a MTX-L WBO gauge also and it does take 30-40 seconds to calibrate. However, if you wire it to a power source which is hot with both the key on and during engine cranking, it can be used to diagnose idling issues just after engine start. With that wiring, you just turn the key to on and wait for the WBO to calibrate before starting the car. Once the WB gauge is showing ready, start the engine normally. The gauge won't go off during cranking, so it will start reading as soon as the engine starts.

Hope this helps.

Not sure about the MTXL manual but it says specifically not to do this in the LC1 manual since its bad for the sensor. Something about condensation.

Drill my block?! D:
____
I have my AFR wired to a hot while in ignition and start)

My tach/RPMs are being lame.
- Gauge not matching TS
- Datalog of WOT pull to my 6800 redline shows me only at 82ish% TP and engine wont rev past 6000.

Stone really weird stuff with this car keeps making me think something in the Harness is fucked.. But not fucked enough to not run.

I replaced the oil fill cap seal and it doesn't leak. I still need proper oil catch can set up.
I tried to dial in my idle valve settings for closed loop.. yeah my valve doesn't do anything it's idling purely off the idle screw.

My boost is back down to 7-8psi :( I believe my cat is clogged. I'm in serious need of exhaust but I've been trying to wait till I get all new hit sides.

Anyone know a reason why the Tach would go crazy after 5800-600rpm and the odometer numbers fade out?

Grounds? IDK.

Here's data and composite log of a 1-3 gear pull, where the Tach went crazy every time and reset my radio.

I'm separating from the military here soon soI'm going to be in need of a job, in Tampa, FL or around Huntsville, AL.
If anyone knows if any job opportunities it would be great. I'd hate to make a For Sale.. :(

Upon investigating about boost leak since I'm limited to six to eight psi right now.
I find this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384743740

Then after finding some boost leaks and fixing them (besides my brake booster inside the cabin) I'm still limited on boost :( Sad.

So I had over to Bradenton motor Speedway. 1/4mi.
What do I do?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384743740

The pic maybe deceiving, but it looks like your ride height is set too low. If your ride height is too high or low, you are much more likely to break axles.

It may be too low for drag. it doesn't help that clutch dumped around 5000rpm either. launch control didn't activate. Everyone in the stands thought it was cool haha
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384787389

I finally got my EBC hooked up. I gotta go threw the settings of course. Though I'm finally back up at +15psi.
Am I the only one that has crazy MAT correction values?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385263225

Where is your bumper

A trailer didn't like it. :crx:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385340606

that doesn't look right. at all
I've never seen a car that requires more than a couple % between 60-80 or 80-100

*edit - though I'm on ms3 and I think you're on ms2 and I already forgot how ms2 is setup. can't see it being much different though

:dunno:
My AFR's go lean right after 80f thus why it skyrockets.
Which I remember reading Brain say something about MS doing that after 80F before but that was a while ago.

I would think the Ideal Gas Law doesn't just change for those who have MS2 from MS3, though it does make you moar awesome then me :(

Ive just never seen it that drastic on any tune I've ever seen.

20% increase is seriously a crazy amount of fuel to need between two temp points. I don't think I've seen anyones whole correction curve swing that much for the whole spread.

I dunno, maybe I'm wrong. But I would look into that if I were you.

Thank you, I appreciate the incite man. I'll contact DIY after they get back about my 2nd set if burnt components on a MS board. Or I'll try looking into the MAT correction/ fueling code.

Also when a fuel/VE map peaks at a certain point before redline (5000-5500rpm) then starts tapering of near redline. Does that mean the turbo runs out of the ability to feed the engine? Thus, too small? Or is it kinda normal with small engine/ huge injectors?

Am I cool yet?

I must be doing something wrong.

At about 23 seconds you can see spark escaping my ignition wire.
Shitty MSM ignition & turbo? Not to mention running pressure well over what it's meant to run.
My AFR (yes shitty Prosport) says I'm in the 12-11.8 range. The dyno's AFR says I go pig rich at ~3900rpm
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385781436
Ignore the file's title. haha

Doing all my wheel bearings:
Front hubs are from Planetmiata.
Rear bearings are from parts store I know work for. Going to have them pressed in.

Also looking to replace/spin my rotors too for my Hawk blue pads.

Suggestions? grease for hubs?

Whatever rotors you can get cheapest, centric if you care about having a name brand. Turning them is a complete waste, unless its an auto-x car and you're turning brand new rotors down to the service limit to save weight. :giggle:

AMS Dominator Grease is the only choice for the hubs.

Typical, the most expensive. Any dealers?

Also, what's the thread of the front hubs?
My computer here at O'Reilly's is showing two part numbers
615-145: m18x1.50.
oe part numbers: d06y33042, e9bz3b477a, na0133042a, na0133042b
05112: m20x1.50.
oe part numbers: same

They are also 30mm for the NB I suppose.

I got mine from Track Speed :party: You got to contact them directly to order.

or just buy it from the source.
AMSOIL DOMINATOR Synthetic Racing Grease

I tried that. I made an order, got a confirmation email, card was never charged, never shipped, called them, said you had to be a dealer to buy direct.

Odd, I bought direct from amsoil before.

Thought I did buy the preferred membership as well. (good discount of 25%, paid for more than itself on my one purchase of engine oil, transmission fluid and diff fluid)

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-registration/

Dyno's sniffer is wrong. You wouldn't have a curve like that if your AFRs were like that.

MSM ignition shouldn't be holding you back yet. I made a bit more power than that on my MSM on stock ignition with no crazy issues, and my tach and speedo still work. :party::makeout:


I'm behind on things... what turbo are you running now?

Did you see the sparks escaping my wire in the video?
I figured mine couldn't be off, I leaned out fuel a bit in top end oh the heat soaked 190hp run and on the way home it felt like detonation was happening on WOT, like the car would jerk forward a bit AFRs would read ~12.8. so I riched it back up looked at plugs the next day and they look bad. rich on the outside lean white in the middle. looked at the top of my pistons and there was black and then a spot of metal that looked pitted.. after researching about it I got insta pissed.

I still have the stock MSM turbo. Stock exhaust size, gutted cat and glass pack.

Couldn't see the sparks in the video.

Your ignition may be in need of servicing, but the reality is that a healthy MSM ignition is capable of supporting more power than the MSM turbo will put out.

Now, knowing that you're using a stock MSM turbo, your power numbers don't look bad.

Turns out I still had an account with them from when I bought my Transmission oil, Ordered the sex grease haha

Hmm, Yeah I've been debating weather to do plugs and wires or trying to do LS truck coils but I'm not sure if MS2Pnp can do that

I was thinking maybe I'd be in the 220 range or even 230 being generous. Thought spark isn't fine tuned. I need to get a knock sensor and shielded audio cable to wire up my det can.
I also need a manifold, turbo, and exhaust :/ all pretty expensive things. But then I should be able to make ALLOFIT :vash2:

if you see arc jump, just replace the wires.

plugs arent a bad thing to change on a regular basis...

I would focus on figuring out your crazy electrical issue before anything else.

If I knew where to start it would be nice.
But I think sparking in the engine bay takes priority too.

I really do think you are right thought I'd like my gauge cluster to work as it did before I just have no idea what's wrong and I don't know where the grounding point is for it, to check if it's that. (Since the car did sit for nearly a year.)

Oh, for those that are interested.
The EFR7163 started shipping out last week.
Geoff has a single scroll vband EWG he offered me. I asked if any are twin yet. waiting on reply.
Though I want IWG, BUT Ehh not like I have the cash now anyways

Waiting on my Hawk blue pads still :/ were suppose to be here last week with the front hubs. Thanks planetmiata.
I got my new rotors, axle nuts, Amsoil DOMINATOR grease, and rear bearings.

Waiting on front spindle nuts too.


Anyone have a T3 turbo they don't want anymore?

Just waiting in front spindle nuts.
I had no idea they were actually blue!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386813722

The dyno operator hit launch control on the dyno today. Everyone about shit themselves, haha.

I thought it was funny.

what happens when you dyno in 4th on a 6speed.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1387079499


I'm not exactly sure how everything works with a dyno but shouldn't they need to know you're final drive and transmission gearing? Maybe someone can shed light on it for me besides me just talking to myself.

I go very rich after 5000, since I added fuel for safety I felt like something wasn't right while driving it. So they let me pull some fuel out (I only did a little) and this made the max run.

I guess I should just shift at 5250rpm I suppose.

sounds good, but you have some gremlins to work out. lol

Oh, do I ever.
I did some WOT pulls today with the rev limiter set to 7200, and I couldn't pass 6300 at 100% so I dropped throttle position and got close to 7000. I was running very rich. I think it was just a huge wall since my VE table with this small turbo looks stupid.

Spikes to 80 @ 4500-5000rpm then quickly tapers to 67's but still rich. Normal?


This was the dyno run that made the most, even after heat soaking.

184rwhp 196ft/lbs

You have an MSM engine correct? I had a similar problem when I installed my MS2. Is the vtcs solenoid in the back of the intake manifold still plugged in? If it is you should unplug it.

Yeah, I remember that from when I first got the engine running. I don't believe it is but I'd have to check again. I thought with it connected you can't even go +5000rpm. I know I have the vac for the butterflies disconnected.

I'm thinking it may have something to do with the electronics ( gauge cluster ) going ape shit at anything above 5500rpm

Fuck, I forgot to check that plug.
Well I'm starting this week full time at my new job ( lame pay compared to my military paychecks ) so I haven't had the time to do a lot with the car, still waiting on the front spindle nuts. I think they are at the post office just don't have time to get them till Friday.

After work yesterday I I found that the axle I have in my trunk hit loose my positive battery terminal and spun it to where it made contact with the battery tie down causing an intermittent short that made the car jerk and all sorts of scary shit when it hit bumps it anything. This was very frustrating add I was in the middle of 5 o'clock downtown Tampa traffic abd I absolutely HATE traffic. So when I git on a road known as bayshore ( it follows Tampa bay to the south point being Macdill AFB) the car started jerking and hesitating very badly ( horrid rough roads) So what did my pissed off self do? I stabbed the gas heard a chunk of everything in my trunk and stared drifting around 2 bends with what seemed like good transitions but probably looked probably like the same as a Honda song a reverse-forward burnout. But now I have cord showing very badly on my tires so I ordered a new set to daily on.

tl;dr
Car act funny, jimmies rustled, sweet jdm drifto

I'm looking to get a cheap turbo to get me to 300 or more now(ultimate goal of breaking 400hp pump gas miata with EFR still there just need the job to pay for it). So I may enter the curio churbro leagues.
After taxes my fab guy gets a tig and REALLLY wants to do my hotside bits.
Hopefully he takes sexual advances at payment.

you should fix other issues before you bother changing the turbo

This is true, I don't want anything to go wrong, When I get the time too troubleshoot the little things I will.

Anyone happen to have a 99 or 04msm knock sensor
or know if they work any good as an detcan? I'd like to not have to install and uninstall one every time it needs tuned, plus I need a new knock sensor.

What's the reasoning here? Mine still runs it. We did have a problem when the polarity was reversed on the plug, though.

nope. they don't

I couldn't tell you, I just know it doesn't let you rev.
Do you have a MSM engine with VTCS but running a 99-00 MS? That's what we're talking about I do believe.
So you're saying you just changed the polarity on = 1 off = 0 to on = 0 off = 1, like that? Or was it actually in the plug wiring

_____
Thanks vlad, I'd like to run ms with the knock sensor even though ms2's knock abilitys are nothing to write home about compared to ms3, but I also want a detcan I can install and use at any time.
Suggestions on the sensor to use for detcan? I have that harbor freight stethoscope, I was thinking it's some bosch with the right thread size.

Jeff used to make those super awesome electronic det cans which he sold for 50 or 60