kinda sorta.

 

last night i had a dream that i bought that 2560 you were selling a long time ago. in the box it looked like a GT55, but it was a 2560 when i picked it up.

 

Its actually for keeping the head from doing the twist. No joke.




I can lean pretty hard on it actually. It's not really for the manifold at all, it's more for the studs. I'm doing this and a DIY version of FM's DP brace.

I could do a 3rd strut to one of the valve cover bolts. Would that be preferable?

The two current points aren't in the same plane cause there wasn't a bolt in the back to use. It's a freestyle crane.

Honestly, if this doesn't do much of anything I'm ok with it, I've spent all of $0 and in the process stumbled upon settings for my welder that work amazingly.

 

You must triangulate for it to work. Someone, alert the engineer crew!!!

 

 

Finished product:



Changed the 1/4-20 bolt to a M8 bolt with a welded nut, and added my attachment. I don't really like the way it attaches. It's current relying on tension to stay tight, and it's doing that, but I may soon add either left/right handed threads for easier adjustment, or some locks nuts.

For all the triangulate people, I hear ya, and I may soon do that, maybe to one of the manifold studs? But for now, I assure you, it's strong. Without it bolted to the turbo, I could bounce on it more than I could comfortably bounce on a fender without it bending.

 

It's not about strength, it's about resonance and making it less of a tuning fork.

 

How old is this thread this is the first I have seen it.

Yeah Tim is right, run a 3rd rod down to the lowest manifold stud you can get to.

This is how I did mine but I have a longtube manifold and the brace is loaded differently.



See how this one has it triangulated vertically not just horizontally.



Do this and then win.



Dann

 

Gotcha. I'll add a third member down to one of the manifold studs.

Started fab'ing about half an hour before the first post. I've got about a 1-1.5 hours into it. Mostly cleaning up after my flux core MIG.

 

Cool.

I probably ninja'd you with those pics sorry.

Dann

 

 

easier if supported from the bottom?

 

OEM turbo BP's (others as well) support with a little L bracket from the bottom, bolting into into bosses in the block and turbo. They also keep the turbo tighter to the block with a downward outlet manifold.

 

hmm, bottom brace actually looks like an even better idea

 

My Irishman.

 

Nitro, the one on your setup looks like it might do more harm than good. Its good to let the manifold move and if you try to lock it down in the wrong directions you end up actually putting more stress into it than if you just let it move around a bit as it heat cycles.

 

When I brace my manifolds, I like to prevent them from expanding so they crack from that added stress of my engineering instead of from natural causes.


Kinda like how I like to brace my downpipes:

 

Hmm, I like the simplicity and symmetry of Tim's picture. The more I look at mine, the more it's asymmetry bugs me. Adding the third member like Dann suggested would bug me even more. I took these shots yesterday:




I may redesign and start over. I found some great settings on my welder half way through anyways.

 

Why not triangulate using the 2 middle bolts or something, so its not loopy?
Also the 3rd "leg" is a very good idea and would make your crane actually work, as discussed.

 

How about nixing the turn buckle all together and actually making it with a cable. Since this should only ever be loaded in tension you can use the cable as the 3rd member You'll just have to give its own support that sticks up randomly and close to the hood. Then if for some reason your manifold shape naturally moved upwards on heating it could.

Note this requires a cable with good high temp heat properties like 321 stainless or 316Ti, I'd worry about carbon steel failing from corrosion in a very short time since it has a high surface area to volume ratio and is going to be somewhere hot.