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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-19-2013, 04:08 PM   #21
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kinda sorta.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:18 PM   #22
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last night i had a dream that i bought that 2560 you were selling a long time ago. in the box it looked like a GT55, but it was a 2560 when i picked it up.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesS View Post
It appears not to be attached to anything to support the turbo. Is there another part still required to be installed or something I am not understanding?

Your welds look pretty good! Thanks for your time.
Its actually for keeping the head from doing the twist. No joke.



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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
needs to be triangulated so its an actual crane, instead of hanging off the bolts bending them in the process

right?
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kinda sorta.

I can lean pretty hard on it actually. It's not really for the manifold at all, it's more for the studs. I'm doing this and a DIY version of FM's DP brace.

I could do a 3rd strut to one of the valve cover bolts. Would that be preferable?

The two current points aren't in the same plane cause there wasn't a bolt in the back to use. It's a freestyle crane.

Honestly, if this doesn't do much of anything I'm ok with it, I've spent all of $0 and in the process stumbled upon settings for my welder that work amazingly.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:27 PM   #24
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You must triangulate for it to work. Someone, alert the engineer crew!!!
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
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You must triangulate for it to work. Someone, alert the engineer crew!!!















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Old 02-20-2013, 11:41 PM   #26
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Finished product:



Changed the 1/4-20 bolt to a M8 bolt with a welded nut, and added my attachment. I don't really like the way it attaches. It's current relying on tension to stay tight, and it's doing that, but I may soon add either left/right handed threads for easier adjustment, or some locks nuts.

For all the triangulate people, I hear ya, and I may soon do that, maybe to one of the manifold studs? But for now, I assure you, it's strong. Without it bolted to the turbo, I could bounce on it more than I could comfortably bounce on a fender without it bending.
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Pictures of my rod for Hustler-bc42f471-79a5-4ca3-be72-b71eebee060a-11774-00000570a2c42191_zpsaf562ee2.jpg   Pictures of my rod for Hustler-ffcb3aac-7510-4437-a8ab-196e8aef727b-11774-00000570a0afe792_zps85744a73.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:46 PM   #27
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It's not about strength, it's about resonance and making it less of a tuning fork.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:52 PM   #28
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How old is this thread this is the first I have seen it.

Yeah Tim is right, run a 3rd rod down to the lowest manifold stud you can get to.

This is how I did mine but I have a longtube manifold and the brace is loaded differently.



See how this one has it triangulated vertically not just horizontally.



Do this and then win.



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Old 02-21-2013, 12:02 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
It's not about strength, it's about resonance and making it less of a tuning fork.
Gotcha. I'll add a third member down to one of the manifold studs.

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How old is this thread this is the first I have seen it.
Started fab'ing about half an hour before the first post. I've got about a 1-1.5 hours into it. Mostly cleaning up after my flux core MIG.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:08 AM   #30
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Cool.

I probably ninja'd you with those pics sorry.

Dann
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:28 AM   #31
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:45 AM   #32
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easier if supported from the bottom?
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:25 AM   #33
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OEM turbo BP's (others as well) support with a little L bracket from the bottom, bolting into into bosses in the block and turbo. They also keep the turbo tighter to the block with a downward outlet manifold.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #34
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hmm, bottom brace actually looks like an even better idea
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:12 AM   #35
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Quote:
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My Irishman.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:21 AM   #36
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Nitro, the one on your setup looks like it might do more harm than good. Its good to let the manifold move and if you try to lock it down in the wrong directions you end up actually putting more stress into it than if you just let it move around a bit as it heat cycles.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:54 AM   #37
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When I brace my manifolds, I like to prevent them from expanding so they crack from that added stress of my engineering instead of from natural causes.


Kinda like how I like to brace my downpipes:

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Old 02-21-2013, 01:15 PM   #38
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Hmm, I like the simplicity and symmetry of Tim's picture. The more I look at mine, the more it's asymmetry bugs me. Adding the third member like Dann suggested would bug me even more. I took these shots yesterday:




I may redesign and start over. I found some great settings on my welder half way through anyways.
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Pictures of my rod for Hustler-24da0ca5-7a81-48dd-8f47-0d8fccd345eb-12402-000005b9851116a7_zpse1dbd9b5.jpg   Pictures of my rod for Hustler-a6ac73a1-ecd9-4655-9d96-7280da3025cb-12402-000005b982aa3ca3_zpsc540b20e.jpg  
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:20 PM   #39
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Why not triangulate using the 2 middle bolts or something, so its not loopy?
Also the 3rd "leg" is a very good idea and would make your crane actually work, as discussed.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:22 PM   #40
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How about nixing the turn buckle all together and actually making it with a cable. Since this should only ever be loaded in tension you can use the cable as the 3rd member You'll just have to give its own support that sticks up randomly and close to the hood. Then if for some reason your manifold shape naturally moved upwards on heating it could.

Note this requires a cable with good high temp heat properties like 321 stainless or 316Ti, I'd worry about carbon steel failing from corrosion in a very short time since it has a high surface area to volume ratio and is going to be somewhere hot.
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