Turbo maifold bolts keep coming loose!
#5
Possibly, But maybe they aren't being torqued high enough in the first place?
Sometimes, when I have seen exhaust manifolds loosen bolts, they easy fix is to warm them up and 'snug' them up. (usually its only 1/8 of a turn or so)
I don't usually break stuff, well there was this one time....(6mm thread and 1/2" double impact)
Sometimes, when I have seen exhaust manifolds loosen bolts, they easy fix is to warm them up and 'snug' them up. (usually its only 1/8 of a turn or so)
I don't usually break stuff, well there was this one time....(6mm thread and 1/2" double impact)
#6
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everything I read and been told you are to re-torque exhaust bolt after they warm up before the cool down. On the Talon after swapping the turbo, I had to left the turbo warm up and then re-torque the turbo bolts and one had room to go.
#14
About to buy hardware for my build and remebered there are issues with this.
Anyway, these puppies are also available from mcmaster-carr, 10 bucks for a pack of 5 pairs in 5/16.
Real reason I'm bumping this thread, I hear that its good to use stainless hardware. As an engineer/scientific type I started checking material properties and it look like steel is stronger AND has a lower CTE, but I know the nickel content in stainless will help it retain strength in high heat.
So, what has been the empirical data from you guys on this? Plain steel re-torqued when heated or stainless re-torqued when heated? I know all you super serious guys go for v-band setups and inconel housing bolts, its too expensive for my wallet and unnecessary for my skill level at the moment.
Anyway, these puppies are also available from mcmaster-carr, 10 bucks for a pack of 5 pairs in 5/16.
Real reason I'm bumping this thread, I hear that its good to use stainless hardware. As an engineer/scientific type I started checking material properties and it look like steel is stronger AND has a lower CTE, but I know the nickel content in stainless will help it retain strength in high heat.
So, what has been the empirical data from you guys on this? Plain steel re-torqued when heated or stainless re-torqued when heated? I know all you super serious guys go for v-band setups and inconel housing bolts, its too expensive for my wallet and unnecessary for my skill level at the moment.
#16
Inconel just isnt in the budget right now, and I dont really track this car, just autox and mountain carving once a year. I dont think I'm serious enough for inco yet.
-Brad
#19
All I can say is that I have FMs newer manifold (the older design allows the studs come intodirect contact with exhaust gasses...new one does not) and had them tap it out and install 10mm studs. With several track days and about 2 seasons of autoX on them, they have never flinched. With the older stuff on 8mm studs even street driving caused stub problems. Come to think of it, I should ask FM what studs they installed i nthe manifold.
#20
I think the Stainless Steel 308(??) type studs are a sol'n that's halfway effective between ordinary studs and the $$ Inconel studs.
They're the same material used on boilers - there's an ASME standard alloy for them, and yes they have better high temp creep and CTE characteristics than the ordinary studs.
They're the same material used on boilers - there's an ASME standard alloy for them, and yes they have better high temp creep and CTE characteristics than the ordinary studs.