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Is ms w/wonky wideband dangerous?

Old Mar 24, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Hinano
It didn't come with directions, I bought it used. And the wires were a mess when I was shipped the part.

Okay well I'll have to do a thorough rewiring. As of right now, I have the ms all hooked up and in but now the damn junker laptop is not recognizing the connection to the ms I'm setting it for narrow band for now. So now i gotta figure out the syncing problem
Told ya so?
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:37 PM
  #22  
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I had the same problem with needing to recalibrate. If you connected the lc-1 to a computer and logged I bet you a dollar you would see a timing error. Upgrading to an alpha firmware that can be found with google fixed the issue for me.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I had the same problem with needing to recalibrate. If you connected the lc-1 to a computer and logged I bet you a dollar you would see a timing error. Upgrading to an alpha firmware that can be found with google fixed the issue for me.
Thanks for the tip, I'm gonna look it up now
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:06 PM
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Indeed the install looks bad. Run a direct 12 volt from the battery to the lc1.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:24 PM
  #25  
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Oh lordy I didn't get the wire to plug the lc1 to a computer. That's another missing item, and $12 :/
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Old Mar 25, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by triple88a
Indeed the install looks bad. Run a direct 12 volt from the battery to the lc1.
I'd rather not have him start posting about why his battery can't hold a charge.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 09:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by triple88a
Indeed the install looks bad. Run a direct 12 volt from the battery to the lc1.
Wrong. You want the power coming from the same E&H field as the ECU, with its inherent ground offset.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Hinano

That's another missing item, and $12 :/
... and another thread no doubt.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by good2go
... and another thread no doubt.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryephile
Wrong. You want the power coming from the same E&H field as the ECU, with its inherent ground offset.
LC-1 and 2 have this annoying feature where when they don't get 12v while warming up they freeze. Innovate says to run a relay to the battery to get the cleanest and most stable power possible. Ground to the ECU for a clean signal.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:33 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
LC-1 and 2 have this annoying feature where when they don't get 12v while warming up they freeze. Innovate says to run a relay to the battery to get the cleanest and most stable power possible. Ground to the ECU for a clean signal.
Never had that issue with my LC-1. Or maybe my **** just doesn't drop below 12v when cranking? (Unlikely.)
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:34 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
LC-1 and 2 have this annoying feature where when they don't get 12v while warming up they freeze. Innovate says to run a relay to the battery to get the cleanest and most stable power possible. Ground to the ECU for a clean signal.
I get where you're coming from, however it's more important to do it right than what some idiot wrote as an app note.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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voltage drops to like 9v when cranking. it doesn't matter if youre running a relay directly off the battery.

if you dont have at least 12v when warming up, then you have bigger issues than with your WBo2 wiring.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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You might just be lucky. I found quite a few threads about it and it was an almost daily problem for me. Relay from the fuse box fixed it and I haven't had it since.

I had it wired off the ECU. And ran into issues.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
You might just be lucky. I found quite a few threads about it and it was an almost daily problem for me. Relay from the fuse box fixed it and I haven't had it since.

I had it wired off the ECU. And ran into issues.
You probably had it into a circuit that cut power entirely when cranking.

I can actually see my AFRs while cranking.

The AEM stepper motor boost gauges will never work right unless you have them into a source that doesn't cut during cranking.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:41 AM
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the white/red wire is active during cranking [that would be silly if the ECU cut out during cranking]. but again, it drops below 10v during cranking on most cars.

the LC1 cuts out at 11.5v and below.

therefore: no afrs while cranking.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
LC-1 and 2 have this annoying feature where when they don't get 12v while warming up they freeze. Innovate says to run a relay to the battery to get the cleanest and most stable power possible. Ground to the ECU for a clean signal.
Yet another reason to avoid Innovate's widebands
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 11:14 AM
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I'd rather sacrifice being able to log AFRs on startup to get a full 7.35-24:1 AFR range in a full 5v sweep vs the coveted 10-18AFR range in only a 4.25v sweep and whose actual readings don't even match the published outputs which requires a lot effort just to get matching values in your EMS all on a big ugly integrated gauge with a refresh rate so slow it makes it hard to read.

A 10-18AFR range is especially useful for those running e85...
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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Is this where MT swings back to loving Innovate after the 12 months or so where MT officially loved the UEGOs?

****'s confusing to keep track of.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 11:40 AM
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it never stopped loving it; we just have rogue members.

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