Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I've had an MTX-L in a box for like 6 months now. too lazy to install over my LC1.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

I'll take it.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

This thread is full of stupid and I hate it.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...B_Shootout.pdf

Cliffnotes:
LC-1 is fast and accurate
AEM is slow and accurate
Everything else is ----

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

haha, he sure does have trouble sleeping. I am at about 2k miles on the street, and zero on track. Ask me after this weekend and I will tell you about some track mileage though.

Seriously, it was stupid easy to install and following directions that used words no larger than 5 letters (other than innovate), can't be that difficult. I do electrical ---- in my spare time, so maybe not the best guinea pig here.

Very simple:
Crimp two ground wires together (unless you want dimming function).
attach ground
attach switched 12v.
turn key on without the sensor connected.
give it a minute to go into calibration.
turn off
attach sensor
turn on
leave it on till "htr" appears
turn off
wait till the sensor is cool
install into downpipe
drive.

Thats it. if you get something faulty out of the box, thats another story. The LC1 didn't look that bad either, I think the instructions are "complicated" because the gauge and sensor are treated as seperate units so people get confuzed.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Thanks alot. This thread makes me feel like I need to replace my AEM linear gauge/sensor. :(

Jeff_Ciesielski

iTrader: (10)

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

I've got an LC-1 for sale.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the newer ones only even have 1 ground wire now...

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

thats true, but if you are not using the dimming function (white wire I think), it said to put it to ground.

midpack

iTrader: (3)

wish I had seen this earlier

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

but that's only in regards to the gauge iirc, but yeah. that should go to the headlight switch thing (12v) cause you want dimming.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I have one and the only real complaint I have is that it took like a month to apparently build and ship from Canada

Other than that it's $140 for the controller that works as a gauge and like $40 for the o2 sensor itself - same price as everything else, basically.

Now, what do you need two 0-5v outputs for?

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

one to the gauge one to the ECU.


I don't want dimming so I put it to ground. Pretty sure I mentioned that in my original post:
Crimp two ground wires together (unless you want dimming function).

soviet

iTrader: (10)

the controller is a gauge. but ok, that's a valid point I guess.

Seefo

iTrader: (5)

wait I get it, my wording sucks:

Crimp two wires and tie them to ground (unless you want dimming).

midpack

iTrader: (3)

It is not this gauge


It is also green and doesn't match anything in a MSM. Where did you mount it / got any pics?

jboogie

What piece of ----, I'd never buy that brand again!

I had a ton of touble with my lc1, then I took an etire afternoon of reading and learning what the hell I was doing, problem solved.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I recommend either the PLX DM-100 which I have in my Miata (fooger's gauge)

or

http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php

PLX DM-6

Both have rolling AFR graph. Useful for seeing what your AFRs were during a pull without staring at the gauge the whole time. Also has standard linear 0-5v output.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

The "WB Shootout" called the PLX the worst tested.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Link please.