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This is the problem with sharing a design and not having control over the quality of the printing. Also, it turns out that most consumer grade 3d printers suck at large hollow structures made from ABS.
Ideally you want to find someone with a good quality printer and a heated build chamber setup.
I can send you the info for the guy I use to print my plugs, but he doesn't do assembly or acetone vapor bath. I do that part myself. Acetone vapor baths are not super difficult but you will need to buy a few things to do it. There is some info online, just don't do it inside and don't use an open flame for your heat source. Also, if you are unsure, have a plan to deal with a solvent fire.
i saw once a link to download the files for sending to the printer. Is there also a list of parts needed to assemble the pieces ?
He lists the elbows and such there. Might change if you are keeping the MAF.
So I've been having trouble getting a hold of a printer through makexyz. I can use their instant price tool, but not going to get the acetone vapor polish with that. Would heat-reflective tape add enough structural integrity to prevent delamination?
i have emailed Austin "the guy" Alec used. He also does acetone polish. He is moving and won't be able to print these until few months from now. austin.floyd@3dprintgeeks.com
I am keeping the MAF and need specific pets that I can just order from Silicon intakes. Thanks.
Update: got it printed finally. However, the 949 Crossflow radiator is taller than the OEM and other aftermarket rads which means the hood won't close. If we cut some of the support structure from the hood it might fit, but could still be iffy. Going to dyno back to back with a more traditional style intake and see what if any HP difference there is and make a determination.
Do you have a picture of how the radiator sits in the engine bay? I'm looking at installed pictures of the 949 radiator and from where I sit it seems unlikely that is causing the fit issue. First step would be to spread a thin layer of clay onto the top of the duct and see where the hood makes contact with it.
Also, have you put calipers on your duct to measure it? Who did the printing?
I have the CSF 42mm radiator from Goodwin and the fit looks similar to the 949 rad. I send my order to get the intake printed yesterday so when it comes I can post the results of the fit. Doesn't look like the white car's intake is sitting as low as the red cars intake. Looks like there is still a lot of space between the rad and the intake.
No just flat black paint. It arrived in hearing aide brown and very sticky from the resin used to strengthen the original 3D piece. Paint both covered the sticky and the ugly color.
It's difficult to see from the pictures, but the red car's radiator (mishimoto or ebay I think) sits .3" above the core support, dleavitt's SM radiator sits .6" above the core support. You can see the air gap between the radiator and core support on the red car is very minimal vs. the white car.
I've tried all manor of twists and contortions to make it sit even close, there's no way it's fitting without chopping the hood structure, which I've had to do on one other NA6.
Any resin applied for strength should be cured to hardness- i don't think it should be sticky unless the printer mixed it wrong.
I see the difference in heights. Its unfortunate because there is a lot of clearance nearer to the center of the radiator, just not right at that corner.
I was told it cured for 24 hours, I figured that was long enough? I have moved it over since the photo was taken, pushing that plastic rivet out of the way, and shoving it up against the fan mount. Still fitment issues with the hood. Like he said, we're going to dyno it with the filter pointed up and see if there's measurable difference between a "standard" intake before we start chopping up his hood.
No just flat black paint. It arrived in hearing aide brown and very sticky from the resin used to strengthen the original 3D piece. Paint both covered the sticky and the ugly color.
It's difficult to see from the pictures, but the red car's radiator (mishimoto or ebay I think) sits .3" above the core support, dleavitt's SM radiator sits .6" above the core support. You can see the air gap between the radiator and core support on the red car is very minimal vs. the white car.
I've tried all manor of twists and contortions to make it sit even close, there's no way it's fitting without chopping the hood structure, which I've had to do on one other NA6.
fwiw Kev's car (Red NA/Gold DEI tape) has a Koyo 37mm which is thinner than the 2 row Mishi/Godspeeds/eBay by ~5mm. Dunno if that accounts for the fitment issues but the Koyo is definitely on the small side.
Apparently I need to scrap my HPS Intake (K&N/AEM style, cut down to 23") and go this route. IAT's averaged 140-150 with ambient temps of ~70 degrees at MSR Houston this past weekend. Jeebus.
Yeah, IATs should be within a few degrees of ambient. You can debate how much IATs matter but the difference between 140f and 70f ought to be substantial.
Yeah, IATs should be within a few degrees of ambient. You can debate how much IATs matter but the difference between 140f and 70f ought to be substantial.
likely even more substantial in the middle of Texas summer when ambient will be 100f and I'm sure engine bay temps will spike much, much higher.
I wanted to show you guys the CAI from my 1997 vintage E320 (101k miles, BTW). The snorkel sneaks between the passenger headlights and the radiator, and then makes its way to the airbox. This all happens to take place right next to the stamped stainless exhaust. Doh!
What I thought was funny is that all the air used on this 3.2 liter engine passes through a little gap that's perhaps 2 1/2" x 1 1/2". Tiny.
link to the files?
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