This thread has been very helpful and my brain is on overload at this point. I think I’m clear with everything I need to do with the exception of the VICS. I’ll be running a turbo with it as well. Any idea what I should do as far as VICS?

1.)I plan to use my CAS from my 1.6.
2.)I’ve ordered an alternator from a NA8.
3.)I’ll be using my R8 COPS.
4.)I’ve ordered the flying Miata oil feed kit for the turbo and plan to use my oil sending unit from the NA6.
5.)I plan to splice in my wiring for the IAC and TPS to work with the BP4W’s IAC and TPS.
6.)I plan to use my fan and temp sensors.
7.)I plan to transfer my FPR to the BP4W’s fuel rail and straighten it out in order to keep the return fuel system.
8.)plan to use the starter from the BP4W.
9.)I plan to remove the EGR and block the port off.
10.)I removed the throttle cable from the NB1 also.

I think that covers everything. We just pulled the engine and tranny from a running and driving 2000 Miata, so I still have access to the wiring harness’s if needed. If this belongs in another thread, please point me in the right direction.

I forgot to mention I’m already running a Beer Money Motorsports ECU for the last year or so with my Turbo NA6.

im good now. Customer support @Beer Money Motorsports helped me out as usual. Can’t go wrong with this ECU if you guys are wondering.

thanks in advance.

 

First of all I want to thank Savington and everyone who's commented on this megathread, its been incredibly helpful. I pulled a running VVT and 6 speed from a parts car and am about ready to drop it into my 92 on MS3Pro Pnp.

My only two questions that I haven't seen really covered are:
1) I'm running a VTCS intake manifold for now (not long term) with EGR deleted. If I just leave the vacuum solenoid valve disconnected will that leave the VTCS butterflies open? Should/can I just remove the solenoid and plug/cap the vacuum ports/lines? I don't need to pass any emissions or any of that stuff.
2) When using the NB cam/crank sensors running from the original CAS wiring on a 90-93, did you have to add a jumper inside the MS3Pro Pnp, or just change my trigger wheel and stuff in tunerstudio? I thought I saw this somewhere but now haven't seen any other references to it. I know I need to add the jumper to enable VTPS and Sequential Fuel.

Hopefully this is the right thread, please direct me if not

 

I may be misunderstanding your question with the crank trigger and all, but I swapped a BP4W into my ‘90 and I simply extended the CAS harness wires and ran the CAS from my 1.6.

I’m running a beer money Motorsports ECU just FYI.

 

I can't speak to the VTCS; it seems that somewhere I've read it's better to just gut the manifold, but I've never owned one.
As to the Cam/Crank sensors, I didn't have to add a jumper inside the MS3Pro PNP. I did for sequential fuel, but not the sensors. It seems that I had to change a setting, maybe for the sensors in VT, tho. (I did a VVT swap into a '90)

 

Thanks for the reply! I know I could re-use the CAS but I am looking to change to the individual cam and crank sensors on the head/crank trigger wheel.

 

Right, I would gut the manifold but I will be selling this complete/stock engine next year once I finish a built/boosted one with a better manifold. Really just using this as a stepping stone to get all my wiring/sensor conversions dialed so I don't do too much at once.
Thanks for the confirmation on cam/crank, seems like I'll just need to the jumper for sequential fuel!

 

You typically don't need to change/add any jumpers when you extend CAS wiring to NB cam/crank sensors, just do the wiring as described way back in the beginning of this thread, and change your trigger settings to NB 4 tooth or 36-2, depending on your trigger wheel.

 

Perfect thank you for the confirmation Curly, yes that is the wiring I plan on doing. Connectors and wires matching OEM colors ready to go, just going to convert my NA6 harness to sequential fuel first per your previous recommendation and make sure that is running well before the swap! I plan to share +12V for the VVT solenoid with the cam/crank section rather than the injector harness as long as that won't be an issue.

This might be dumb but I'm curious if the sequential fuel will need much fueling tuning changes? Also wasn't sure if its best to start with 01-05 VVT base map or if I'm supposed to stick with the 90-93 one since that's my chassis year.

 

I'm in a similar situation. '05 in a '90. From what I've read, you want to use a 90-93 basemap since those I/O points will be setup correctly for your chassis. Then edit things in the tune as needed to match the 1.8 engine. Tables and stuff. So that's what I'm doing and going to hope for the best. It starts up, at least.
Question, for anyone who knows: I'm pulling the VVT 12V off of the injectors. My intake is from 99/00 with VICS. I'm not in a rush to get it wired up, I haven't even bought a connector yet, but could I also pull the 12V from the injectors or should I grab it from somewhere else?

 

the white with a red stripe wire powers your purge solenoid, injectors, ECU, IAC, fuel pump relay, crank sensor, and a number of other things I'm sure I'm forgetting. On the later cars, the equivalent of this wire also powers the VICS/VCTS solenoid, so yes, you can use injector power.

 

For me, I just used the same tune from before the swap, adjusted the sensor settings for crank wheel, displacement, VVT, and injectors, and it ran. I did have Autotune (or whatever it's called) continue to update the basemap, and it did make some changes, but nothing dramatic.

 

Thanks guys, I'll stick with the 90-93 basemap and go from there. I was just a little worried about the difference in displacement and higher compression. Putting it away for the winter shortly after the swap anyways.

 

Excellent. thank you.

 

Just wanted to post in here and thank Savington and everyone for their input to this thread, just finished up my VVT swap into my 92 before putting it away for the winter. For anyone contemplating, it's 100% worth it and I wish I did it years ago.


Just going to contribute a bit of additional info that might help future readers.

1) I found it much easier to just build a new "sub harness" for the new Crank/Cam/VVT that plugs right into the old CAS connector using the CONN-100937 from Ballenger motorsports. Then I just ran the one remaining wire for VVT control back to the ECU (shared the +12V from the cam/crank sensors), leaving my stock 1.6 fuel injector harness untouched, although I will be converting to sequential fuel in the future. FYI for the whole swap it is only like 50 bucks for all the connectors and new pins seals etc. and re pinning is quite satisfying compared to using butt connectors.

2) If you have a 1.6 and are planning on buying a new alternator to get the ribbed pulley a 93-95 FD RX7 alternator is pretty much the same price and an upgrade from 65A to 100A-direct swap and uses the same plug as the NA chassis. I've seen some people do some cutting and grinding of the case to fit it, but if you order a Bando 4PK890 belt (a bit longer than stock) it fits right in and has enough adjustability in both directions to install and tension it. You do need to use a longer bolt in the bottom mounting hole, it seems like a M10-1.25x110mm would do it but I had a power steering bracket bolt laying around that was the perfect fit if you just add a couple washers under the head. Also, I don't want to contradict Savington but from everything I saw once I got into it the 1.6 and 1.8 alternator shafts had the same dia and I could've just swapped the pulleys if I ground the lip off the 1.6 alt case for a bit of clearance. I'm keeping my OEM one as a backup as the Rx7 one was nice and shiny and is working great as of now.

3) Not to get too far off topic but for anyone wondering about the ECU setup/tuning side of things if you have a megasquirt and had it running before the swap, it's pretty easy to make the necessary changes. I saved my old tune as a new project, pulled up the 01-05 basemap from DIYautotune (just for reference don't load it) and just compared them side by side in two instances of tunerstudio. Use at your own risk but I pretty much just kept my old VE table since I kept batch fuel, grabbed the new spark table for the higher compression, and then all the other parameters for the trigger, IACV, VVT etc. etc. and everything worked great.

4) If you're a noob like me worried about all the changes at once and driving your tach and stuff it is easy enough to run the stock NA plug wires if you shave the plug wires a bit to fit the VVT valve cover and ziptie the ignition coil to the brake booster vac line on the firewall. I wouldn't do this permanently and am going to upgrade but it was good enough for me temporarily.

 

Can someone confirm the following?


I don't have the original connectors to check wiring colours.

 

That is correct according to the .1mm of wire color I can see on mine.

 

This works so indeed.

Other question, I have the NB vvt manifold 4-2 and the NB 2-1 piece of exhaust without the cat.

Furthermore I have a standard NA exhaust.

Would this setup get me higher hp numbers then getting an NA8 manifold and pipe? Or in other words is it worthwhile fabricating a connection tube?
I don't want a loud exhaust on the car , it should not attract too much attention and trackday regulations are getting more and more strict..