^I was thinking about that exact same spot.

Going out to garage now to see if there is a point in the blox manifold where the spacing matches up.

Do you think the 10" runners will hit the powerband we're looking for?

 

honestly, no clue. there's a crazy math formula on honda-tech.com if you search.

here's what newbsauce's did for him:



lost a little spool, but everything past 5600RPM was better. I think we lost a little due to wastegate control, I'm pretty sure we can get it back, he was using a very small 7psi wastegate can that kept wanting to spike so we bleed off with the boost solenoid; since been replaced.

This was with his BEGi IM, IIRC 3x12" plenum, 9" runners, and 70mm TB.




We had ot remove his charcoal canister due to the runner length...intake plumb got interesting too:




lovely S-shape.

 

Pretty much exactly what I plan on doing powerwise.

Looks like this manifold will set the throttlebody BACK...making it easier to make smooth coldside bends.

Good to see the 70mm throttle body isn't too much.

Any idea what the cheap hookup is on those that fit a honda mani?

I'd heard somebody say something about Mustang TBs, and wanted to check before I pulled the trigger on a stupid TB that cost as much as I spent on the stinkin' mani...

 

mustang TBs suck, the clockspring is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too light.

You have so many options with your honda flange...a B series TB can be had for $10 with the tps, iac, and map sensor and that's 60mm. For $59 it can be bore out to 68mm at maxbore.com and the linkage should work, the mustang linkage needs to be modded.

 

What size is the inlet on the Blox mani?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

Looks like the Blox is 62mm, but I'm using tape and not calipers today. Will bring them home from work tomorrow.

 

This is sooooo 2001 for me..

I used a bored out Honda T-Body when I did this. I beleieve it was 67.5mm when we were finished with it. I used the Honda TPS and no IAC.

 

Yeah, they suck! When I used one on my BEGI manifold I ended up adding an extra spring to add some tension..

 

Like I said, spill the beans on the old school set-up man lol

 

+1, this thread needs more pics. Especially since its been done before!

Someone make these and sell them for a reasonable price with proven gains.

 

That is the problem.. Making them for a reasonable price. Aluminum welding is not cheap, never mind you would need to have a flange made to weld them to.

I will try and find some old pictures of my setup.

 

Speaking of price. If anybody else is thinking about this let me know.

I've got a line on a genuine Skunk2 that I found in my search. Guy got back to me and said $150. I could pick it up, and either ship it straight to you, or cut it and get it welded at the same time I do mine.


I'm waiting on Marc's pic before I start cutting runners. Will probably go his route pending review.

 

yes, I believe he does.

 

What type of gains are you expecting to see on street driven miata? Is this something more for the track car than the daily driven.

 

More torque and power from 5-7,000 rpms.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

Actually; when I look at newbsauce's dyno plot, it looks like the torque es lower.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Can someone explain it?

Thanks

 

Holds torque for longer instead of droping towards redline

 

Nice new avatar

 

Terminology failure on youre part.

It does exactly what he said "more torque from 5-7k"

Youre using the word 'torque' to decribe torque only in the low RPM range, which is wrong and the result of a muscle car culture.

 

^^ this. It's not about peak TQ in his case, but the extra top end HP from incresed tq after 5K. Yes, he lost 10 peak TQ during spool, but gained about 20 ft-lbs at redline, increasing his HP 30 points at 7000RPM.

and we did it with less timing, and less averaged boost.