True. But with the thing braced and good couplers, thats pretty unlikely. For it to come off it has to blow not one but all the couplers and overcome the bracing. If you do the bracing right, that means you need enough force to straight overcome the tensile strength of several peices of steel straping. If you have that kind of force, you are running diesel truck levels of boost and/or a large animal has been ramed into your engine bay and you are dead.

Lets say it does come off (which will be under boost if it happens) you will have a massive and sudden drop in the amount of air going into the head at first as boost just evacuates the intake. The engine is now pig rich and beyond for a short moment. Driver lets off the throttle with with the scary noise/feeling. Now you have basically ambient pressure on the MAP sensor. You do also have an engine getting airflow at ambient levels, but little or no fuel. So you will be lean or it will simply die for lack of fuel depending on where the injectors are. A 1.6 would likely be getting plenty of fuel due to the location of the injectors after the couplers. A 1.8 would be anyones guess. What with vacuum though, most of the fuel is going to get sucked right into the head short of the kind of blow up outlined in paragraph 1.

Lets say it does not die. Worse, lets say the driver goes into neutral or just pushes in the clutch. ****, now we have air and fuel (ish) going in and no load! ZOMG! Except that it will just bounce off the limiter untill the driver wakes up and shuts it down. Limiters work on ignition, which is working just fine.

Short of being a complete fool and running like that under a possible lean condition for a long damn time, I dont see damage occuring there. Scary as all get out sure, but not catstrophic. The only way the engine is going to run lean is if there is little or no load and then only at ambient pressure and then only for a moment. It wont over-rev, or at least not beyond whatever you set your limit to.

 

you know what works better? WELDING!

 

OK, OK. Honestly I agree. I am going to STFU before I get banned.















......but I swear this would work.............

 

"Tuning Tip: Red is a good color for all around performance, however with a big turbo blue gets upwards of 10 hp, unless you have stock cams, then only 5 hp. Purple is best for bottom end power, mix with red for excellent mid-range. For NT cars, shift all recommendations one hue towards a warmer color. Yellow hose should only be used on high compression NTs or turbo cars with welded differentials."

lol

Anyone have a pic of a cut 1.6 manifold?

 

REDLINE!!! Rev'ing to redline and staying there.. I've seen this happen before on a DSM. Not good.

 

Concept "Blueprint":

Final result:

 

Those runners are so ungodly short...no wonder you took it off in less time than it took Corky to weld it.

 

6" from tip of the stack to the flange. There should have been an extra 1" length of straight which I had on my first drawing...

 

I see now how it was different in construction...

I'm going to shoot a little closer to 9-10". The Skunk2 is designed to make power up to 8K+...and the Blox runners are even shorter. I don't plan on overspinning mine, and some crude interpolation of runner lengths versus powerbands tells me they should be a good bit longer to make the power from 5000-7000 we're looking for.


I'll stop posting in this thread until I'm ready to put up pictures of hardware.

 

Looks really good so far.

I wonder how much the short runner length on that one will really affect things around 4k though. I would not think that short runners will affect velocity much, so my bet is that its not a big deal. I guess time will tell.

 

I do think this would be a swell idea to help some one tune in the runner length.

 

Tuning runner length (independent of all other variables) has nothing to do with direct velocity, it has to do with harmonics. It can matter /a lot./

 

Thats the manifold that made this green line?

 

yes, but my pretty much blew on the dyno and it wasnt boosting correctly



you gotta take the boost plots into consideration. I did make more power up top with less boost at the same timing.

here's how it compared at wastegate levels:



again, my motor was not up to snuff. I ultimately sold the IM to pay for a new block and parts.

 

hm very intersting, I was about to say that a little bit longer may have been the sweet spot, but when you take the boost into account that may not be too short at all.

so what happened to that manifold? looks like it had plenty of potential

 

Viperormiata owns it, he'll be done with his car soon to get it dynoed this spring/summer

 

Does someone know if there is a non-mazda aftermarket intake manifold that would fit on a B6? (I mean the same runner paterns), thanks

 

^ WTF are you talking about? This whole thread has been about how to utilize a aftermarket or Honda manifold for B18 engines.

 

thats why I'm asking if there is anything that can be use for 1.6L, as I can see, these hondas intake manifold as the same runner's paterns of the BP.

I wanna know if maybe toyota or whatever, why not honda X-series would fit?

 

He may be addressing the fact that the runners almost exactly match the BP flange, but not the B6.

Still, we've been over it several times in this thread...cut the 1.6L mani 3" back from flange, and cut the Honda mani where the runners converge.

I'll let you know exactly how far back that is when I get it done. Gotta swap shocks again before I can get to it though.