I shouldn't bad mouth you until after you finish my exhaust huh.

I guess I should of just said you weren't ready to take on the project.

If I go to pick it up I'm still going to bring the two halves with me to see what you think.

 

What exhaust?

Sounds good. Did you cut it yet? Pics?

 

I hope you mean your own and a spare that I will quickly purchase.

 

^Bring me a skank2/blox mani

 

The thing about aluminum is that for a full penetration joint, a considerable amount of prep time has to be taken into account. Unlike steel, which uses DC current, welding aluminum requires AC (alternating current). AC acts as a cleaning mechanism to take the aluminum oxide layer off so that welding is possible. When a full pen. joint needs to be made. You must use a stainless steel brush and go over the back of each joint so that when you poke through it isn't a dirty weld. The second thing i would recommend is a back purge. After that, crank up the heat and haul ***.

 

I thought about it and it was one of the local shops I swung by that said they weld aluminum, but didn't have the equipment to get full penetration...NOT ABE.

I'm suffering from early Alzheimer's...


Abe, I haven't cut it yet. I wanted to do it on one of the bandsaws at work, but we've been in full production for the past few weeks. I got home early after classes yesterday and was going to go at it with a cutoff wheel, but took a nap instead...stayed up studying too late the night before, but aced my quiz yesterday.


You can consider mine an experiment...I have access to another Skunker.

 

this thread needs less talk and more action.

It took me like a week top come up with a concept and get someone to weld it up, then like another week to actually fit the damn thing on the motor.

 

Why did it take so long to fit it to the motor?

 

Don't you ever type at me like that or I'll use your Braineack-cap as a soup bowl...[/ethug]


I'm busy bitch.

But I want to see results too. Will cut it during lunch break tomorrow.

 

Someone will shoot me and I dont balme them considering I dont even have a car to try this on, but I am going to throw it out there anyway:

Silicone Hose and Clamps

16" really strong coupler material (I used this on my own IC pipes @ 24 psig with 0 issues on a DD and that dealt with more movement than this will) - $16

8 heavy duty clamps - $28

A Honda B18 Intake off the Ebay or CL ~ $50
b18 intake manifold, eBay Motors, Acura. Great deals on eBay!

Some thick uni-strip from the hardware store maybe 10 bucks.

Basially you would end up a little over 100 bucks not counting whatever little bits are needed for TB connections, vac connections etc. And no need for aluminum welding. Just some band saw time and a bit of work with a die grinder. Shoot a dremel would probably work well on aluminum.

(Ducks and runs from room)

 

and a droopy flaccid dick of a manifold.

 

Have faith in the uni-strip. Its like viagra for flacid manifolds. Seriously, I dont think it will be a problem.

 

What if you JBWeld it AND silicone couple it...that only raises the price like 4 bucks...

 

Peripheral port rotaries do it...

 

Dont try to out-ghetto me son. I seriously have a freind who used JB weld to make beads on his IC pipes once because of time constraints. It worked perfectly, and he left it that way for years before getting round to just using freakin bead roller.

Having said that, no way. With all the vacuum there JB would end up right into the inatke valves. Pus you loose the adjustable runner length feature

 

wow, I mean I'm cheap but damn.
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I just finished helping swap a new engine into a DSM. It uses my old thermostat housing. This is a near 20 year old part, and all the lame little plastic sensor connectors on the harness were/are cracking bad. I had an issue at one point on a road trip where the temp sensor connector straight disintegrated despite my electical tape skilz. I used two little female spade connectors an some rtv to 'fabricate' a new connector. It's still working flawlessly in the new car.

Some things don't have to be perfect, they just have to freakin hold together. No need to make it more complex than it is.

 

I'm just throwing this out there. What is the worst case scenario of that connector falling off? Ok, now what is the worst case scenario of a coupler popping off post throttle body?

 

dont act like you havent thought of doing this

 

Not even for a second.
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