Motorsport ECU vs Performance ECU & Engine Detonation
#21
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Ok, so to change it its actually really simple, just change the values in the chart. If the values in the chart don't correspond to your ADC delete the *COLUMN, and input the new data. I believe all the ADC values are /10 and RPMs are /100. You are very close to CPU in the 1280. Not a lot of GUI there for wholesome feeling. I love it though, all these boxes in advanced mode calculate in real time when the thing is running so you can see everything! I can also completely trace calculations, no more mystery box. Everything is here.
** You can change the table name in advanced mode and it will autopopulate the UI correctly. So if you don't like the fact it says 2-bar, change its name to 2.5-bar.
** You can change the table name in advanced mode and it will autopopulate the UI correctly. So if you don't like the fact it says 2-bar, change its name to 2.5-bar.
#22
Good stuff.
I'll tell you what may make me switch Racelogic type of traction control, because it's >$750. Racelogic it takes 4 wheel ABS sensor inputs, and has 5 levels of traction control, race, dry, wet, girlfriend, and grandma, plus off. The 5 levels are all configurable. My beef with it is it takes control over the injectors, and its drivers can't do peak and hold. The Adap could use an anolog input as a % slip ****, and one could use a 6-way rotary switch with 5 resistors to set it.
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/index.php...ontrol?start=5
Play with the software:
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/_download...ction_MKII.zip
I'll tell you what may make me switch Racelogic type of traction control, because it's >$750. Racelogic it takes 4 wheel ABS sensor inputs, and has 5 levels of traction control, race, dry, wet, girlfriend, and grandma, plus off. The 5 levels are all configurable. My beef with it is it takes control over the injectors, and its drivers can't do peak and hold. The Adap could use an anolog input as a % slip ****, and one could use a 6-way rotary switch with 5 resistors to set it.
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/index.php...ontrol?start=5
Play with the software:
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/_download...ction_MKII.zip
#23
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Even the 440 ecu and 420 ECU has 4 wheel traction control now. Both of these ECUs support a POT adjustable slip angle and a huge variety of different configurable options.
With the 1280, you could definitely do different levels of traction control and traction control with any number of analog or digital inputs. Space shuttle level traction control. With a 1280 in the Miata you could even feed all those spare outputs to light up high current LEDs as you switched the digitals on
We did a similar thing for a rally car driver. He had a need for a POT with notches on his fuel trim. So he could ratchet up or down fuel trim quickly in his car and not run off a cliff. He did the same thing with ignition timing. Basically setting each notch at a certain degree of timing pull. A little old school, but handy if you just need it!
Really you don't even need the 1280 to do what your asking though. The 1280 goes above and beyond a firmware based system. If you asked us to we could get it to act exactly the way you want. It would also have the selectable drop downs, but a 420 with different maps would work!
With the 1280, you could definitely do different levels of traction control and traction control with any number of analog or digital inputs. Space shuttle level traction control. With a 1280 in the Miata you could even feed all those spare outputs to light up high current LEDs as you switched the digitals on
We did a similar thing for a rally car driver. He had a need for a POT with notches on his fuel trim. So he could ratchet up or down fuel trim quickly in his car and not run off a cliff. He did the same thing with ignition timing. Basically setting each notch at a certain degree of timing pull. A little old school, but handy if you just need it!
Really you don't even need the 1280 to do what your asking though. The 1280 goes above and beyond a firmware based system. If you asked us to we could get it to act exactly the way you want. It would also have the selectable drop downs, but a 420 with different maps would work!
#29
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- The Racelogic system is slow to react because the time between when you inject and when the cut takes place is a full engine revolution apart. This can be a noticeable delay.
- The Adaptronic system is very fast acting, and can be ratcheted on and off exactly when it needs to be because ignition cut and retard happen on the same engine cycle and determine power output directly.
- The Racelogic system cannot be leaned out to reduce power safely. You have basically power control in 25% increments (1 cylinder drop is the minimum)
- The Adaptronic system can be ignition retarded to give you EXTREMELY fine control over the engines power output. 0-100% range in 1% increments all the way to 100% based on engine retard and spark or fuel cut.
- The Racelogic system is external and does not automatically inform the ECU that it needs to go into open loop mode.
- The Adaptronic system is done in the engine management so the closed loop fuel system is aware its being cut. This means it will automatically kick into open loop on cut. No additional wiring needed!
That's a pretty tall list of advantages, and the E1280 gives you alot more then just traction control!
#31
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I just set up the MS3X last night for launch control (it doesn't yet support traction) and you can pick the X and Y for "cut X sparks from Y events" as well as fuel cut rpm independently. It works nice at cut 6 of 7 for me--a 4 cyl like jason says.
It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
#32
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I just set up the MS3X last night for launch control (it doesn't yet support traction) and you can pick the X and Y for "cut X sparks from Y events" as well as fuel cut rpm independently. It works nice at cut 6 of 7 for me--a 4 cyl like jason says.
It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
My brain has been destroyed just recently by creating 3D models and their corresponding 2D drawings from excel codes and functions automatically for engineers that need to build things like OSHA handrail. I spent about 2 months building nothing but if(,,) code and thankfully the element builder in the 1280 software works almost exactly like this. If it can be "if thened" I'm pretty sure I can make it happen.
#35
So specifically, I know there are quite a few 400WHP cars out there. What are you doing to keep the motors together? Are you looking at EGT, WBO2 per cylinder? I've tuned quite a few, but only one in that power range and it made me a little nervous to be honest. At ~400 there is just something uneasy about the whole tuning process. On most tunes I can send them away with full confidence, yes you will enjoy this car for thousands of miles and have no problems. On that 400whp engine?? Who the hell knows? Cylinder pressures are off the map, EGT's are searing even with good tuning, and usaully they are turning a fair amount of RPM.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Keep your timing conservative and the knock away and you will be just fine. You will need forged pistons and rods in the Miata motor to do 400hp.
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