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Old 02-20-2009, 06:51 PM   #21
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Dogs and cats living together...mass hysteria!

It's interesting how well a conversation on a reroute can go with Hyper...
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:18 PM   #22
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Following advice in this thread, I now have a question, I'm retaining the o/c and t/b coolant lines in my reroute (freeze plug in the front, feeding the heater core pre-thermostat, exiting heater core to mixing manifold, and sending upper radiator hose around the coldside) but looking for a place to send the coolant after the throttle body. I'm planning on running a pipe under the intake manifold to send the coolant back to the radiator, would it work ok to have an inlet in that pipe to return the coolant from the throttle body?
If my reasoning is correct, it will be like the stock setup of having the throttle body coolant running into the thermostat neck, it will just be post-thermostat now instead of pre-.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:42 PM   #23
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All that will do is give you slightly more flow pre t-stat opening.
Which is not really a bad thing.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:50 PM   #24
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I did mine this way. It takes a while to heat up, but even at 35* air temp, it maintains 180* on the freeway. If you track the car, keep it how it is. If you don't then use the mixing manifold.
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:57 PM   #25
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everything you never knew about life as a man.

With any luck, your ***** will drop after reading this thread. I'll try to remember to take more pics of my motor tonight and send them to you. BEGi has lots of parts to make this happen easily.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:55 PM   #26
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I have a somewhat similar re-route without any loss of heater functionality and no prolonged warmup.
One small deviation, I come from the coolant port on the bottom of #4 cylinder and feed into the heater.
The post-heater feeds into the "spacer" with a 5/8 hose barb (which is after the thermostat).
The spacer is capped with a 1.6 neck which returns all coolant to the radiator.
A nice bonus with using the 5/8 hose barb: You can use the stock heater hose to the back of the head.

I use a -6AN hose and fittings for the heater "feed" line which seems to allow a little too much bypass flow for sub-summer temps. When the thermostat opens, the combination of the heater and radiator flow seems to drive the engine temp a little too low (for winter operation, probably wouldn't happen in > 50 degree weather). By a little, I mean 140ish. That's when coasting. Normal driving keeps the temps around 160 (still a little cool but that should change with warmer ambient temps)
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:58 PM   #27
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Then plumbing the heater back to the mixing manifold will be just like the stock configuration, which means you get the heater after about 90 seconds of driving.

Nick, if your heater feed is pre-thermostat, and the return is into the mixing manifold, and it doesn't work, you might have a thermostat that's stuck wide open.
so that when the thermostat opens, you get cool water instead of half cool half hot water. I have my reroute done like this, and I constantly get laid once the car warms up.
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:24 PM   #28
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so that when the thermostat opens, you get cool water instead of half cool half hot water. I have my reroute done like this, and I constantly get laid once the car warms up.
It's not half and half, though, since the hose to the heater core is smaller than the hose to the radiator, and if you restrict the flow to the heater core you can improve on that. It's more like 3/4 cold water, 1/4 lukewarm water (the heater still removes heat).

You can either get laid when the car warms up, or you can get laid while the car is warming up. Return the heater core to the radiator and you'll be so cold in the mornings you won't be able to physically get it up.
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:24 AM   #29
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Both BRGRacer and I both did the OPs proposed reroute over a year ago. We both suffered from over cooling the motor. The car would take forever at idle to reach operating temp and once driving the temp would actually fall to around 140deg F and never rise higher. The only solution was to return the exhaust side heater core return pipe. Once that was added back into the system the motor would heat up normally and reach operating temp.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:45 AM   #30
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Isn't it nice having an intelligent conversation about a reroute? lol Thanks for all your input guys. When I do plumb the heater core back in I'll just return it back to the mixing manifold.
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:49 AM   #31
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Isn't it nice having an intelligent conversation about a reroute? lol Thanks for all your input guys. When I do plumb the heater core back in I'll just return it back to the mixing manifold.

Since my head is off, I decided to finally do my reroute.

I'm simply doing this:

  • Freeze plug for the front outlet.
  • Spacer from BEGi; machined for a thermostat, tapped for the heater core & temp sensor.
  • 1.6L water neck for the radiator return
that's it. simple.
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My Reroute drawing-reroute.gif  
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:53 AM   #32
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^ That's exactly what I'm doing. Except I'm keeping the smaller oil cooler and throttle body lines as well.

How much is BEGi charging you for the spacer?
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:05 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
^ That's exactly what I'm doing. Except I'm keeping the smaller oil cooler and throttle body lines as well.

How much is BEGi charging you for the spacer?


I was just about to ask that. I ordered one of these, you posted this once before Scott.

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Old 02-24-2009, 11:45 AM   #34
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You have a high side and a low side on the cooling system. That is, there are two pressures. The high side is anywhere after the pump and before the thermostat. The low side is anywhere after the thermostat and before the pump, ignoring insignificant losses do to fluid flow. Odds are there is slightly more flow returning the turbo water to the inlet of the WP vs. before the radiator, but it's negligible. I would keep it the way you have it though. You don't circulate much water through the turbo anyways, so it's not adding much heat to the coolant pre-water pump. Maybe 5*F or something, but not much.
The primary purpose of water cooling the turbo center housing is to prevent oil coking during heat soakback after hot shutdown. While the engine is running, you get pretty good thermal management of the turbo center housing from oil flow. You also don't need to worry about coking then since the oil is continuously flowing through the turbo. One of the most important considerations in turbo water coolant routing is to make sure you don't have a high point vapor trap in the line. The post shutdown cooling works by siphoning fresh coolant into the turbo as the coolant boils off.
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:56 AM   #35
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^ That's exactly what I'm doing. Except I'm keeping the smaller oil cooler and throttle body lines as well.

How much is BEGi charging you for the spacer?

I'll be finally adding a water/oil cooler, but i have no TB lines. I'll source from the IM and dump back to the water pump inlet.


I think it was like $20 or something. You could ask them to tap it and machine it for you....
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:15 PM   #36
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they should really make it a standard product with extra temp sensor holes and plugs to fill them as needed.
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:48 PM   #37
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they should really make it a standard product with extra temp sensor holes and plugs to fill them as needed.
We've had like 5-attempts and no one can seem to make a reroute spacer that everyone likes. Just the spacer would be nice.
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:52 PM   #38
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We've had like 5-attempts and no one can seem to make a reroute spacer that everyone likes. Just the spacer would be nice.

Then buy from BEGi or Moss or the Holey part linked.

But I bet if they tapped it on one side for 12mm x 1.5 and the other for 3/8 NPT, people would buy them.
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:14 PM   #39
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Then buy from BEGi or Moss or the Holey part linked.

But I bet if they tapped it on one side for 12mm x 1.5 and the other for 3/8 NPT, people would buy them.
86 vs. 20 dollars. why would I buy the holley part???
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:24 PM   #40
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86 vs. 20 dollars. why would I buy the holley part???

its just an option :P
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