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Old 02-25-2009, 07:28 PM   #61
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This is our standard piece for the thermostat housing. It is aluminum and can be tapped anywhere for anything.



For example, we did this one with a threaded bung.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:51 PM   #62
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Quote:
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no, I had a machinist cut the groove and tap it for $60.
Thanks hustler. I can follow your pic and do the same thing here.

No way a local machinist is charging $60 for that!
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:47 PM   #63
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Does anyone know what size threads are on the rear temp sensor on a '95? The sensor that goes into the cover that is.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:50 PM   #64
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m12 x 1.5
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:51 PM   #65
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Thanks. The bung in the spacer Stephanie has pictured above is 1/8" NPT, didn't think that would work.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:54 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
This is our standard piece for the thermostat housing. It is aluminum and can be tapped anywhere for anything.



For example, we did this one with a threaded bung.
Stephanie,

How about a spacer like the one talked about in this thread? It ould have a port for the heater and the temp sensor plus a grove for the thermostat. We would cap it with the standard thermostat housing from the front of the motor. then we would just need a tee added to the pipe going ot the radiator for the heater to return too?

How must would something like that cost?

Also guys why not add a vavle to cut off the heater return when we are on the track?
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:00 PM   #67
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^ I agree with this.

I would buy one exactly as you described. Then all one would have to do is run the hose back to the rad and remove the front neck.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:06 PM   #68
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I agree, I've suggested that a spacer with a m12x1.5 bung and small pipe for the heater core, machined to accept a thermostat would sell well.

I'll post pic of how I drilled (by drilled I mean will be this weekend) your spacer, steph.
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Old 02-26-2009, 09:23 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraser-X View Post
Also guys why not add a vavle to cut off the heater return when we are on the track?
We've been talking about something along these lines for a while, in an automatic version. The oil thermostat idea seemed promising, but an inquiry to Mocal suggested that the unit would not perform well with a fluid as thin as water.

Adding a simple 90 ball valve would be quite easy, and require nothing special on the part of the spacer itself. Just plumb it in series with the feed into the heater core. I'd think you'd not want to ever close it all the way, as this would deprive the block of flow when the thermostat is closed. Even in a race environment, there are going to be times (hopefully) when the thermostat is not wide open, and you don't want to stagnate the coolant during these periods.

That's the real catch-22 here; balancing the desire to not return hot coolant into the mixing manifold vs. the practical requirement of maintaining circulation when the thermostat is closed.

If you really wanted to get fancy, you could locate an electronic solenoid valve (similar to those used in zoned lawn sprinkler control) to shut off the flow of coolant to the heater core when the temperature is above some limit (say, 210, for instance) and then re-open it when the temperature falls.

For the rest of us, I'm liking the spacer with thermostat & outlet, and a restrictive orifice feeding the heater. From a flow standpoint, that's just about a perfect 323 clone.
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:37 AM   #70
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joe, do you have a link to a restrictive flow device I can fit in my heater hose with ease?
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:41 AM   #71
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Aside from speculation based on observation, do we have any empirical data to show that there is more circulation between the water pump and the radiator then through the rest of the engine?

Basically what I am saying is, what if there is a restriction built into the path between the pump and the front neck to prevent over circulation of water?

I understand the re-route solves over heating issues on track cars, even though I only heard of maybe 3 such incidents on this forum. However, could it be possible that factory design of the coolant system was intended to maintain proper operating temps. While the re-route on average drops those temps?

In my mind, and I could be wrong, a properly functioning engine cooling system is the one that keeps the engine at the optimal operating temp in all driving conditions basically removing the possibility of large temperature swings.

I equate this too CPU cooling, the best heatsinks arent the one that keeps the processor the coolest, its the one that keeps the processor at its proper temperature under every load condition.

I understand the 323gtx was done differently, and it was the homologation of rally car. I can understand mimicking the reroute for race use, but wouldnt it hurt(and i use that lightly) the engine, if its driven in any other conditions with sub optimal operating temperatures.
The 323gtx design is the "factory" design. When MAZDA put this engine in the MIATA they did the front thermostat Reroute to save some money. The goal of all these racer and aftermarket Reroutes is to restore the original factory design.
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:47 AM   #72
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Would we need to source a 1.6 neck or re-use our 1.8 necks for these offered re-routes?
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:50 AM   #73
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Please correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't there a MAZDA thermostat holder with the outlet at an appropriate angle that will fit on the original thermostat location on the back of the head? I think that it is one from a Protege or 323.
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:55 AM   #74
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that 1.6L waterneck will point directly left or right of the engine when placed on the back of the spacer.

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Old 02-26-2009, 10:56 AM   #75
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Quote:
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joe, do you have a link to a restrictive flow device I can fit in my heater hose with ease?
Hustler,

Have a look in the racing section of your local homedept or Loews they have lots of ball valves to choose from and hose barbs for installing them.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:00 AM   #76
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ball valves? how about a washer in front of the copper inlet tube....
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:04 AM   #77
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Would we need to source a 1.6 neck or re-use our 1.8 necks for these offered re-routes?
That or a Kia Sephia water neck. With that one there's no hole to worry about plugging.

Best pic I have.

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Old 02-26-2009, 11:37 AM   #78
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ball valves? how about a washer in front of the copper inlet tube....
Since I am in TX I really would like to take the heater out of the system on the track. I really do not think the thermostat will close while running laps under boost when it is 100 plus on the track.

If I am out of line and cutting flow through the heater will **** something up let me know, but would I still have water bypassing the thermostat for the Oil heater and turbo cooling lines?
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:37 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
That or a Kia Sephia water neck. With that one there's no hole to worry about plugging.

Best pic I have.

[IM]http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b189/LEVNUBHIN/Miata/Latest%20look/Engine%20rebuild/IMG_8414.jpg[/IMG]
that won't work on a 99-head if you want to put the CLT sensor in the factory plug. FYI, for future rerouters.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:38 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraser-X View Post
Since I am in TX I really would like to take the heater out of the system on the track. I really do not think the thermostat will close while running laps under boost when it is 100 plus on the track.

If I am out of line and cutting flow through the heater will **** something up let me know, but would I still have water bypassing the thermostat for the Oil heater and turbo cooling lines?
get a real oil cooler an trash the factory one.
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