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Old 02-26-2009, 05:42 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
Why eliminate the welded pipe? Don't you need that to go to the upper radiator hose?
Stephanie
Nope. Because we'll be attaching the thermostat cover from the front of a 1.6L Miata (or a Sephia) to the spacer, and that will feed the post-thermostat coolant to the upper radiator hose. The pipe could technically stay to feed the heater core, just may not need to be quite as long as it is now.

This is kind of a good example:

Spacer on block (is feeding coolant to the heater core, not tapped for temp sensor though):


1.6L Front Thermostat Cover mounted on top of spacer containing thermostat (returning coolant to upper radiator hose on coldside, ignore the temp sender bung, that has to be plugged as there is no room between the cover and firewall to mount the sensor there):

Last edited by RotorNutFD3S; 02-26-2009 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:46 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
On the spacer housing or on the tubing portion?

If there is space, as an option, it does not seem like a problem. Can some of these ports be on the bottom of the spacer?

We do have a front thermostat block off plate.
Stephanie
The 1.6 fan sensor can go in the tubing post thermostat.

there is a transmission under the spacer.

I used a 30mm plug to block the front.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:53 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
The groove is no problem. Why eliminate the welded pipe? Don't you need that to go to the upper radiator hose?
The metal pipe should feed the heater core instead because it is pre thermostat.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:58 PM   #124
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Stephanie,
I just had something come up at work and I won't be able to come out tomorrow. Maybe the pics will help.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:04 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
So we do not need to put a back on the spacer piece?
Nope. Overall, it will look roughly like what RotorNutFD3S posted in message #96 or #121. Just a spacer, open on both ends, with a bunch of fittings in the middle.

Quote:
(regarding a plug to fill the hole)
On the spacer housing or on the tubing portion?
On the housing. My thinking is that if a person wishes to use a particular hole, they can install the appropriate NPT fitting into it. If they don't wish to use that hole, they can install the plug. Certain of the holes (the one for the heater outlet, and the one for the stock CLT sensor) will almost always be used, thus no plug need be supplied for those positions.


Quote:
What about doing a 3/8 NPT and you can use it for EITHER the gm style sensor or use a reducer fitting for the turbo coolant?
I like it.


Quote:
(re: sidebars I and II)
If there is space, as an option, it does not seem like a problem. Can some of these ports be on the bottom of the spacer?
Is there room? Been a while since I looked at one with the tranny and everything attached. If so, any of the CLT sensor threads could go there, though the one for the stock CLT sensor would ideally put the sensor in a stock-like location so the factory wiring can reach it.


Quote:
We have a 1.6L and 1.8L motor here. I assume we should be able to fit all this stuff around what is on the motor right?
I believe that's the idea. I don't think there's anything on the NB is isn't on the 1.8 NA, so those two should work as templates.



Quote:
Going to the radiator, around the intake manifold, that is easy.
Really? That's the part that gave me the most grief when I tried to figure it out for myself.


Quote:
The groove is no problem. Why eliminate the welded pipe? Don't you need that to go to the upper radiator hose?
No! The whole idea is that the thermostat will go on the firewall-side of this spacer, not between the spacer and the head. That pipe is the whole problem with the one you have now.

Go out and look at the front thermostat housing on a stock 1.6 engine. Visualize the rounded cover that the upper radiator hose attaches to. That's what we're going to bolt to the back of this whole thing. The thermostat will live between that cover and the firewall side of the spacer, and that outlet will feed the upper radiator pipe.

Just like Braineack and levnubhin have shown in the pictures they posted. (Brainey's is shown feeding out to the exhaust side, but it's reversible.)


Quote:
We do have a front thermostat block off plate.
In that case, put a hole in it to fit the 1.6 fan thermoswitch, and sell that piece to the 1.6 guys. This eliminates the need for one of the holes on the spacer.



Quote:
(on purchasing the naked spacer)
3/8" to 1/2"
Hmmm. Thick enough for a 1/8" NPT, probably not enough for a 3/8" NPT without some welding... Or some JB-Weld.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:07 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
what do you think I have? But it would be nice to come pre-machined for a thermostat...
I think you have no cupcakes.

And being that I sold my lathe when I moved out here, I kinda need it to come pre-lathed. There isn't a single machine shop in all of Charlotte County so far as I can tell. Mr. Pierce died, and he was the only one I knew of.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:16 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Go out and look at the front thermostat housing on a stock 1.6 engine. Visualize the rounded cover that the upper radiator hose attaches to. That's what we're going to bolt to the back of this whole thing. The thermostat will live between that cover and the firewall side of the spacer, and that outlet will feed the upper radiator pipe.
I will mock one up tomorrow and post it. How long is the stock CLT sensor? How much can it stick into the inside hole?
Stephanie
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:22 PM   #128
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If the 1.6 fan sensor is on the front of the head...will it ever get hot enough to come on? (210*?)

The 1.6 gauge senders go in different locations on the NA and NB head, but that's it.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:26 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Hmmm. Thick enough for a 1/8" NPT, probably not enough for a 3/8" NPT without some welding... Or some JB-Weld.
3/8" thick steel is enough to seal a 1" NPT fitting. 3/8" is plenty for what we're doing. This is relatively low pressure anyways. 3-4 threads is plenty of contact area for a reliable seal. 3/8-18 NPT at 3/8" thickness = 6.75 threads. Plenty. Now whether a spacer welded on is needed for thermostat clearance or flow considerations is another story.
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Old 02-26-2009, 06:26 PM   #130
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Build one and I will come by and pick it up tomorrow!
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:16 PM   #131
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ETA on this thing?

Need one of these bad boys for the gtx head, silly fwd's.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:18 PM   #132
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hold on to your hats, picture dump coming shortly.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:25 PM   #133
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Graffitied BEGi spacer:










Machined Lip:







Simple Reroute:





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Old 02-26-2009, 07:29 PM   #134
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loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooolololol
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:29 PM   #135
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where does the swirl pot go?
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:34 PM   #136
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Zomg, what's a swirl pot?? I thought people used those for fueling or something.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:48 PM   #137
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Love you man, I knew you would post pictures
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:51 PM   #138
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i left the Braineack ***** logo, I'll start branding the MSes I build with it.
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:58 PM   #139
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Holly **** thats way to big!!!

Lol, looks like it sticks out towards the firewall quite a bit, whats your clearence Clarence?


-Dean
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:16 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc2696 View Post
Holly **** thats way to big!!!

Lol, looks like it sticks out towards the firewall quite a bit, whats your clearence Clarence?


-Dean

It will fit. I had one on b4 I swapped it out to a Kia Sephia piece.
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