Is this too "naff" of what?
 

I did the coolant neck delete when the Qmax got installed, so used the small blanking plate. Which means the pretty big blanking plate was left over. The instructions say use it for a keychain, but I found two perfectly-spaced factory threads where it can be mounted just to the right of the radiator (RHD car). Now #1 son says that it is too "naff" (whatever that means). I reckon it is a Schwarzenegger version of an engine bay sticker:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b088e101f6.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...47cc495125.jpg

I think as long as you raise the front far enough above the rear to bleed it out the radiator you'll be fine. I've filled the car twice now with the Qmax installed and both times there was little to no air under the bleeder when opened. I also squeeze both radiator hoses a little and that usually gets any trapped air.

Agreed -- waiting for these to comeback in stock.

Anyone got this in stock?

Next batch inbound. We're taking preorders.
https://supermiata.com/supermiata-qm...mx5-miata.aspx

Just placed and order for the Qmax and a Supermiata Rad.
I saw the few posts about running the regular Stant thermostat vs the Super. Wondering which one I should run..

Regular

Thanks, I'll go with the Stant 45848 180 degree.

The Qmax kit comes with a thermostat.

Correct, it comes with the Stant 45849 195 deg.

My concern was whether to run it or the Stant 45848 180 deg.

Ah, gotcha. Why are you guys running a regular (180) versus the one it comes with?

Unless you have a specific and thoroughly understood issue you are trying to solve, stick with the thermostat we include.

Instructional video mentions using the supplied Permatex 22071 gasket maker on the actual threads of the 5/8 barb and 1/8 npt. Is this still accurate? How much more or less effective would this be compared to using 59214 sealant on the threads?

I was not aware you could use gasket maker on threads.

Also, the instructions get a bit wonky when mentioning or referring to sealant on thermostat housing vrs main housing etc..

Instructions say to use Teflon tape or the liquid stuff for the npt fittings. The permatex is for the housing pieces to join and then the housing to the head instead of a gasket.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c9dd519f.jpeg

what sensor is that next to the heater hose barb?

It's a 1/8” NPT temperature sender for an Auto Meter 2635 Z-Series Electric Water Temperature Gauge.

14:30 - 14:50

Apply a small amount of supplied sealant OR PTFE "plumbers" tape to threads, your choice.

If you do order the reroute I highly recommend removing the 3 ppf bolts and jacking up the small end of the transmission to give extra clearance between the motor and firewall, as mentioned prior in this thread.

In my case, 1995, I had to beat the EGR out of the way with it disconnected from the intake side. Although, most people installing this have this deleted already since going turbo.
Also, I did end up extending the wire for the stock temp gauge below the reroute housing.

Heavy D,

If the reroute is done on the motor out of the car, do you see any issues with firewall clearance getting the motor back in? Any tricks or tips to make sure I don't bang this orange piece of fine art automotive jewelry ?

Honestly I don't know. If you are worried about getting the motor back in then why not wait to install it until the motor is back in?