miataturbo.net-like debauchery thread (about the ND or something)
#1748
I think you get something close to turn key- Like minus seats and harnesses since that is driver preference based.
People on m.net think that is expensive, I am kind of shocked it is that cheap. The cup cars have always had much nicer parts on them then a spec miata and you can go racing in a pro series for new car + 20k.
People on m.net think that is expensive, I am kind of shocked it is that cheap. The cup cars have always had much nicer parts on them then a spec miata and you can go racing in a pro series for new car + 20k.
#1754
This was met with a few pages of "SEE THE BREMBOS ARE A BAD DEAL IF YOU CAN EVER BRAKE FADE THEM" and whining about other people spending money (please ignore that the 370Z Nismo exists). Then this morning, one of the moderators made some off-hand comment about someone with Brembos fading them at Laguna Seca again.
I mentioned it to Sav over Facebook, but I think a really good prank would be to swap out the brake pads on these dudes' Miatas while they're sleeping for DTC-60s or XP12s and see how long it takes before they notice and start whining.
#1755
Link to cluster **** of a thread- Pobst on the ND at Laguna Seca - MX-5 Miata Forum
This one takes the cake. The ignorance in the thread is astounding, I'd be shocked if any of the commenters have ever even looked at a race track (save the couple comments attempting to bring logic to the conversation).
This one takes the cake. The ignorance in the thread is astounding, I'd be shocked if any of the commenters have ever even looked at a race track (save the couple comments attempting to bring logic to the conversation).
^ Given all that, Mazda could have offered a slightly bigger Brembo package with better energy absorption/dispersion characteristics so that a casual track-day driver could run at least two laps using OEM pads and fluid without potentially dangerous brake fade (we're not all going to be able to compensate as expertly as Randy could). Doing might have upped the cost of the package by $500 and added a pound or two of unsprung weight to each wheel but that's a price I'd gladly pay.
#1757
Some dude asked "Have any of you ever actually been on a race track?", to which everyone immediately knew the answer.
YOU KNOW WHAT OTHER CAR HAD FACTORY BREMBOS!?!? Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver
YOU KNOW WHAT OTHER CAR HAD FACTORY BREMBOS!?!? Z Meets Wall: We Investigate Why the NISMO Z's Brakes Failed at Lightning Lap - Feature - Car and Driver
#1759
Brake fade
Gentleman, this is much ado about nothing.
No problem with stock, Goodwin OEM rotor Wilwood or big rotor Wilwood kit.
The pads we had made for the stock calipers arrived Thursday and were the wrong plate. My mistake. I called Ryan at Goodwin and asked if he had race pads for stock calipers. A few days lead time so I bought their Wilwood DP4 kit for stock rotors. Not being familiar with the newer PFC pad compounds and being in my truck running errands, we took a guess and ordered the PFC14. Turns out to be their low friction, light car pad. Basically what you run in the rear. My mistake. So yeah, they faded, then came right back after a few turns to cool. No taper, noise, crumbling, warping. This indicates the hardware was fine, just put the wrong compound in. Had I chosen PFC01 or PPFC08, I'm sure we would have no issues. We'll put some XP12's in and call it a day.
I think the DP4/OEM rotor kit is the way to go personally.
No problem with stock, Goodwin OEM rotor Wilwood or big rotor Wilwood kit.
The pads we had made for the stock calipers arrived Thursday and were the wrong plate. My mistake. I called Ryan at Goodwin and asked if he had race pads for stock calipers. A few days lead time so I bought their Wilwood DP4 kit for stock rotors. Not being familiar with the newer PFC pad compounds and being in my truck running errands, we took a guess and ordered the PFC14. Turns out to be their low friction, light car pad. Basically what you run in the rear. My mistake. So yeah, they faded, then came right back after a few turns to cool. No taper, noise, crumbling, warping. This indicates the hardware was fine, just put the wrong compound in. Had I chosen PFC01 or PPFC08, I'm sure we would have no issues. We'll put some XP12's in and call it a day.
I think the DP4/OEM rotor kit is the way to go personally.
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