samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Do they stretch during the removal process or simply over time of being installed. They only need to last until the motor really does blow up if I reinstall them now. The motor does have 150k after all.
PM'd sir.
Nice idea, but looks like too much work if I really just need the head planed to be good. We'll see just how f-ed up it is when Abacus gets ahold of it.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

they stretch during install when they are torqued down if they are even slightly overtorqued. once their yield point is exceeded they will continue to stretch after install when peak cylinder pressure is hit. I know this because my car would idle great with no leaking or oil consumption. But when it was rev'd it would burn oil and spit oil and water out of the side of the head gasket all over the block. it wasn't pretty.

LOOINEY

Theres also the factor of did the head have any gasket bite to seal the head gasket. When you pull the head even if it true and not warped the face of it could be to smooth and not seal good. Also you should let the engine warm up on a new head gasket with no load or high revs then drive it for about a good 15-20 than come back let cool down a bit and retourqe the head studs back down to seat the head gasket. This is the same thing i did on rebuild except geting the head resurfaced but you could see and feel the tool marks on it still.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Please quit the internetz. goodbye....

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Here are some pics after the second removal.

I have not touched the valves at all, what you see is how they were. The pistons I only wiped clean, no scrubbing at all. The cylinder walls of #2 and #3 feel prefectly smooth to my highly calibrated fingernail. Everything looks pretty good to me.

I used a standard combination square and a .004 feeler gauge and it was fine. I went all the way down to .0015 (my smallest one) until it started fitting under, and even at that I can't be sure due to the inconsistancy of my square. Both the head and the block were good. Again, the engine has never overheated... in fact, the one thing I've never had any issues with is heat.

The plan now is to get in touch with a guy in town who has a 200k mile complete engine for cheap. I've gotta swap in a new clutch disc (going with the 6puck) anyways, so it makes sense to pull the current motor, remove the tranny on the workbench, then tap the pan of the new motor, and drop it in with the clutch/tranny already on.

The other option is to take the head to a local machine shop and have them shave it just to be sure and then get some ARP studs and try it again.

The kicker is that I can get this used motor in town (high miles but female driver and a LONG commute) for less than half of the headwork/studs.

While I'm beating the 200k mile motor into the ground, I can start acquiring parts for a mild build on my current motor. I might be on the lookout for a '99 head, aftermarket moly-coated rings, stock rods, and ceramic coated stock pistons. I think we established that the recognized weakest link in the stock engine is the rings.

As usual, I'm looking for advice... what do y'all think?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sam physically turn the crank to reveal #4's wall. any vertical scoring on #3?

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Sam: '99 head won't fit on a 1.6L block.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

No vertical scoring on #3... #4 will check tomorrow morning.
DO'H!!! I remembered that halfway through a round of CallOfDuty4 and didn't want to get up to edit the post.

I've decided that I'm gonna buy both the motor and have the head done. Can't turn down a complete running motor for the price.

I saw someone selling OEM Mazda rings on m.net for $170. Deal?

What does moly-coating and shot-peening cost?

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

lol sorry arkmage... that's the bolt i was talking about.... my head was out of it since i was on medicine last night hahaha

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a crock of **** to me. I seem to recall seeing a set of new stock pistons, with rings and wrist pins for $200. Just the rings shouldn't be more then $75 or so. Course I could be think'n of a different car I was shopping for a while back.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

When shopping for rings, I see several different brands/levels... some say "basic" while others are "premium"... what's up?

I won't be able to afford any fancy pistons or rods, but I think I can swing piston coating... How much and where?

When I have the head planed, should I be worried about getting a thicker-than-stock Head Gasket to maintain the same compression?

If I do want to have the current engine "rebuilt" while beating the 200k mile motor, what is involved in that? I assume I want to take it somewhere and have it done? What exactly are they going to do to it? How far will they break it down and what else will be reused? Bearings/races/pins... I'll admit I don't know engine internals down to the last little piece. Can I completely dismantle the engine and take it to someone in pieces to save on labor or what?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You can disassemble it and take it to them for them to machining. That might save you on an hour of shop time if that's how that shop works. They won't need the old bearings or anything because you'll want them to fit new bearings to the crank along with your new rings.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

http://performancecoatings.com/

they do an excellent job, get their triple coat service. they will put a dry film lube on the skirt, ceramic on the dome, and heat dissipating coating on the bottom. I believe they quoted me $45+shipping/cylinder for that service about 2 years ago.