Turbo installed. Lasted 4 days. Threw a rod.
08-24-2014, 11:29 AM
#22
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Did you even read any if this?
I didn't tune it. My mapper (a well known good mapper who I will not name as I don't believe it's his fault) was picked up by me and driven to my garage to start the car and drive it back to his safely where it could be tuned in the hub dyno.
I didn't tune it. My mapper (a well known good mapper who I will not name as I don't believe it's his fault) was picked up by me and driven to my garage to start the car and drive it back to his safely where it could be tuned in the hub dyno.
My car was done right. Not a mega budget build but nothing was skimped on either. Mazda rods are not known to break at 181ftlb at all and it was mapped what I thought was safe.
Pointing out retardation: you should have read the thread mate.
Can you post your tune? what are you on megasquirt?
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08-24-2014, 12:25 PM
#25
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Did you properly break in the motor? I have been told ( with my other fully rebuilt motors) to initially drive it hard ( a lot of deceleration in gear) with very little idling to help rings and bearings to seal properly. It has also been relayed that a fresh build also use dino oil first then change out after 100 miles then again at 2k-3k depending on amount of metal shavings. If that 3k miles was babied then I can see how a rod can be poking out of the block after a launch like that.
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08-24-2014, 12:30 PM
#27
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Our engines don't like as much spark angle as Hondas and Nissans because they are different engines in design. If the fellow doesn't do a lot of B-series Mazda engines, he should stick to the base tune's spark map that can be downloaded from DIYautotune and a few other places.
Out of curiosity, what RPM was it set for when you were using the launch control?
Out of curiosity, what RPM was it set for when you were using the launch control?
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08-24-2014, 12:39 PM
#28
OP, I feel like this thread is going to go nowhere until we actually get some proper info/pictures.
Your: "hai guyths, my car borked, it was done right and low power, wut happened?"
Us: "well, I'm guessing........and..........and.........and based on...........and according to what you said..........and"
We're just guessing. And making assumptions based on the very little actual info you provided.
We need to see the tune.
We need to see the carnage and close ups of affected parts (good pictures of spark plugs, piston tops, etc)
Only then will this discussion become truly productive.
Your: "hai guyths, my car borked, it was done right and low power, wut happened?"
Us: "well, I'm guessing........and..........and.........and based on...........and according to what you said..........and"
We're just guessing. And making assumptions based on the very little actual info you provided.
We need to see the tune.
We need to see the carnage and close ups of affected parts (good pictures of spark plugs, piston tops, etc)
Only then will this discussion become truly productive.
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08-24-2014, 12:53 PM
#29
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A 2554 or smaller with a small A/R turbine housing, a log manifold and tiny exhaust could conceivably create enough restriction to be that bad, but you'd really have to try.
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08-24-2014, 01:28 PM
#30
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in for spark map and logs.
sorry to hear this OP, this type of thing pretty much never happens unless something was fubar'd on your end.
What injectors did you have? were they flow tested?
sorry to hear this OP, this type of thing pretty much never happens unless something was fubar'd on your end.
What injectors did you have? were they flow tested?
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08-24-2014, 02:31 PM
#31
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OP, I feel like this thread is going to go nowhere until we actually get some proper info/pictures.
Your: "hai guyths, my car borked, it was done right and low power, wut happened?"
Us: "well, I'm guessing........and..........and.........and based on...........and according to what you said..........and"
We're just guessing. And making assumptions based on the very little actual info you provided.
We need to see the tune.
We need to see the carnage and close ups of affected parts (good pictures of spark plugs, piston tops, etc)
Only then will this discussion become truly productive.
Your: "hai guyths, my car borked, it was done right and low power, wut happened?"
Us: "well, I'm guessing........and..........and.........and based on...........and according to what you said..........and"
We're just guessing. And making assumptions based on the very little actual info you provided.
We need to see the tune.
We need to see the carnage and close ups of affected parts (good pictures of spark plugs, piston tops, etc)
Only then will this discussion become truly productive.
I know he's away all weekend but I'll ask him when I speak to him
Our engines don't like as much spark angle as Hondas and Nissans because they are different engines in design. If the fellow doesn't do a lot of B-series Mazda engines, he should stick to the base tune's spark map that can be downloaded from DIYautotune and a few other places.
Out of curiosity, what RPM was it set for when you were using the launch control?
Out of curiosity, what RPM was it set for when you were using the launch control?
Rpm was set to 4500 for launch control I think.
Did you properly break in the motor? I have been told ( with my other fully rebuilt motors) to initially drive it hard ( a lot of deceleration in gear) with very little idling to help rings and bearings to seal properly. It has also been relayed that a fresh build also use dino oil first then change out after 100 miles then again at 2k-3k depending on amount of metal shavings. If that 3k miles was babied then I can see how a rod can be poking out of the block after a launch like that.
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08-24-2014, 07:49 PM
#33
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Well, it could have been the engine assembly or maybe it got overevved at some point, but if it happened when you were using launch control that's probably the culprit.
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08-24-2014, 08:37 PM
#34
you, your mapper. semantics.
clearly it was not done right. clearly the rods will break when it's not "mapped" safe. To make you feel better: my first turbo motor lasted about 15 minutes because I did stupid noob things.
I dont need to read.
Can you post your tune? what are you on megasquirt?
clearly it was not done right. clearly the rods will break when it's not "mapped" safe. To make you feel better: my first turbo motor lasted about 15 minutes because I did stupid noob things.
I dont need to read.
Can you post your tune? what are you on megasquirt?
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08-24-2014, 08:46 PM
#35
Horton, same engine as the one in this thread you made ?
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...rebuild-78604/
you ever solve the issue with cylinder 2 ?
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...rebuild-78604/
you ever solve the issue with cylinder 2 ?
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08-24-2014, 08:46 PM
#36
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had timing advanced 16° form when I was n/a.
had 87 octane still in tank.
boosted 7psi.
only had a 12:1 FMU for more fuel, but no timing retardation.
Det to destruction; blew out ringlands on 2 pistons.
had 87 octane still in tank.
boosted 7psi.
only had a 12:1 FMU for more fuel, but no timing retardation.
Det to destruction; blew out ringlands on 2 pistons.
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08-24-2014, 08:50 PM
#38
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-rating-78590/
My car runs a 40 thou skimmed head and about 20 degrees advance i think. It was mapped a while back and I've removed the plugs recently and they are white. A friend suggested that this means they are getting too hot and that I should change to a higher heat related plug?
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08-25-2014, 05:27 AM
#39
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Horton, same engine as the one in this thread you made ?
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...rebuild-78604/
you ever solve the issue with cylinder 2 ?
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...rebuild-78604/
you ever solve the issue with cylinder 2 ?
Also changed the plugs out for correct one suggested for turbo cars.
I had a big list or all the things I could think of that a turbo car needed and mine had everything expect a coolant re route. Which I have most of the parts for just haven't fitted it yet.
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