ohhhh...........ok lol. Shoulda said that from the beginning.

 

Why do i have the feeling the mapper might be TDR?

 

Won't be TDR. TDR maps give 135whp n/a 1.6s running with a total of 6 different cell combinations.

 

What Ecu do you have Megasquirt? If so, Don´t you have any friend with a laptop that can help you out? Damn, the Cable to connect to the ECU cost´s 20/25€.

Regarding the engine failure, sorry to hear that. But if I remember a few months ago you opened a thread regarding smoking from your engine?! Was this one?

 

Yes it was this one. It was my old heavily skimmed n/a head. Since I removed that the engine has not smoked or burnt any oil at all.

 

You know what else makes for TQ spikes and low HP?

Bad fuel pump or a fuel filter that needs replacing. Add to that the higher (ie- useless) redline and that could result in a lean spike up top.

 

Let's accept the fact that **** happens?🙈 it's mechanical and we all know mechanicals can give anytime anywhere without notice. Pick yourself back up , get a new short block and start over. Start learning the basics of megasquirt and when ready dyno tune if needed. Me and my brother took a base e85 tune of diyauto and street tune. Last dyno was on a mustang tuned by evil genius to 231whp 10.7 afr up top on 91 at 10 psi. Even the dyno tune we started fine tuning it more on the street and sure enough was able to get a satisfying street tune by ourselves. With the e85 we tuned it ourselves and I belive the results are clear.

 

Skipped tooth on the timing belt?

 

Goodness! I'm just trying to figure out how you left the dyno with these numbers and then decided that it would be a good idea to beat the **** out of the engine right away??

 

No kidding. My 1.6 running the Greddy turbo made 168 at 8 psi. Something is amiss with that tune.

 

Did Faeflora tune it? Burning man is this week...

 

honestly I thinking the same thing. rofl.




TDR or TDR.

Meaning: Track Dog Racing or Tuning Done Right.

But OP appears to be in England (maybe around Hampshire) and I dont know of any tuners there; let alone any well known ones.

 

OP went to a mapper, not a tuner.

 

I atually made a joke about that but didn't hit post cause I wasn't sure if it was lame

 

 

It is lame. But, someone had to say it.

 

My Guess:

Stupid rich tune. Really odd tip-in settings on MS. Retarded timing. Nothing we have not figured out in the first 2 seconds of this.

Ignition cut based launch control on MS I think?

So you have a lot of fuel due to weird tip-in settings (also guessing that you can specify a throttle % in MS for those settings? I bet that % is really high on the OP tune if that's the case...) and the plain pig rich tune. And its not all getting lit off anyway due to retarded timing.

OP floors the throttle and it's both getting way too much fuel for the airflow and not lighting it well either. Not hard to imagine that eventually you get some burning fuel happening even as the piston is coming back up on the ex. stroke. Its burning at the tailpipe, not hard to figure it might be burning at the head under these conditions. Couple that with the fact that suddenly that crank really wants to increase revs as it launches and you have a rod caught between a piston that's got force resisting its upward travel pretty strongly just after BDC and a crank that's not going to just stop turning.

This would explain why the piston does not look as bad as you would think, the bearing is probably OK, yet the rod is utterly destroyed. And why it made crap power.

 

Yes, with spark cut it is possible to have fuel ignited at an inopportune time.

Once again, launch control is for competitive drag cars that get rebuilt relatively often, not street cars.

 

But flames and brap brap noises....

 

you guys are putting way too much faith in the mapper to blame the launch control.