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03+ got slightly stronger boxes than the original 02-mid03 "glass box"
I've done dozens of vf setups and the only ones that grenaded the trans were seriously abused ones. And by abused I mean street raced every other day, 5k clutch dumps and banging gears like a boss.
So it's not that bad, really.
I really love how simple and straightforward those setups are though. Everything fits, everything works together, car passes smog urry time, etc.
I have two mint vf48's sitting in my garage if you need one. and Subaru id1000's
It's an 02'.
I picked a silver 02' last December as a beater and I've just loved it. Unfortunately it's got hail an rust issues, so it will likely find a new home once the black one is up and going.
It sounds like you've got more of Subaru hoarding issue than I do! It's a little early on, but shoot me a PM on what you might want for the parts.
Do you have an STI intercooler to go with those, and several extra 5 speeds?
There is a disassembled 5spd that needs reassembly and an RA gearset to go in it that came with my silver car. I'm guessing it'll need to be put together at the same time as these other shenanigans.
I've actually accumulated a header, up-pipe, and turbo from a 16' STI as well as a pair of GR Top Mounts. If you're sticking with the 2.0L on 91, the 48 seems like a little too large of a turbo. Add a little bit of corn juice in and it's a whole other ballgame.
why would the 48 be too large? it's basically perfect for a 2L
vf34
vf39
vf43
vf48
vf52
and many mannnny more vf's are all the same size basically
Another local goofball that I shenanigan with quite often has a bugeye sedan and did the 48 with a GR TMIC and was fairly underwhelmed (as was I) in comparison to the stocker. Once we through the corn juice at it, it was quite a different story. Being autox nutswingers, we may be a little more adverse to lag than some. The turbo isn't too large, but on 91 the power output available didn't seem worth the price of lag.
If you auto-x and want the maximum amount of lowend grunt, yeah I guess stick to the td04. You're trading around 300 rpm of spool for 50-60hp up top.
I'll try to dig up some plots later. But it's far from underwhelming. You go from 220-230hp to 270-280, it's a pretty significant increase.
This. Even though I know its not necessarily a bad thing, the amount of hoses and messiness under the hoods of modded Subarus stresses me out.
Even my mostly stock STI stresses me out.
FML. I knew I shouldn't have bought tires. DTD just put a $75 rebate on the tires I bought earlier this week. fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu....
It's ok, I really needed tires.
Well, that's probably the least responsible I've been about tires in a long, long time.
Ok, lets talk alignment.
First things first: this is a DAILY DRIVER with STOCK springs, STOCK sways, STOCK ride height, STOCK suspension and I expect some life out of the new tires. Please take your autocross and trackdaybro alignment recomendations with you and go **** your hat.
Now that we have that out of the way, lets talk about other things I can **** up. Specifically, alignment.
The "factory" specs I keep finding on the internet have an alignment "range" that is "acceptable" listing things like "Front Camber .3 to -1.3" and as far as I'm concerned, that's bullshit. lol. The problem is that I don't have experience with an AWD platform, let alone a wagon, so separating the buckwheat from the bullshit in the general urabus fuckery smeared all over the internet has been a challenge.
Who wants to spoonfeed me alignment specs for my ridiculously stock 04 wagon?
As for alignment, as always all my opinions are #BECAUSESTREETCAR and I have absolutely zero racetrack alignment knowledge. I usually tell them to set each side identical to the other, keeping the front camber -.5 to -1 and caster even between the two. zero toe everywhere if you want maximum tire life. That's about it as the rear's aren't camber or caster adjustable. Just don't go to a similar place to the one that failed your smog and you'll be fine
Those look like the Star Specs I took off the BRZ after my dad and I did a 600 mile roadtrip, in the rain, for a concert.
Yeah, not exactly my proudest moment
Originally Posted by 18psi
I usually tell them to set each side identical to the other, keeping the front camber -.5 to -1 and caster even between the two. zero toe everywhere if you want maximum tire life. That's about it as the rear's aren't camber or caster adjustable.
That's pretty much what I was thinking: zero toe, matching caster, matching left to right. Good to know the rears are not adjustable, I was unaware of that.
I know what caster does to a Miata without PS, but is there ever "too much" considering this is AWD and has PS?
Originally Posted by 18psi
Just don't go to a similar place to the one that failed your smog and you'll be fine
11-09-2017, 04:28 PM
0
put some electrical tape on it
)
Mr Funny Guy over here 
