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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#3062
I should have driven the STi first.......................the Camaro is just completely insane, bonkers fast. And I owned a 2013 Mustang GT track pack, so I know how quick the modern muscle cars are.
Rolled into the throttle in 2nd, the rear wiggled a bit before settling in and hooking, grab third back in the throttle, WHOOPS already north of 100mph. Just a short test drive, but the car feels solid, well built. No tramlining from the massive Goodyears (285/305), gearbox felt good. And in the normal suspension mode it's plenty comfortable for a DD. Fit with my helmet on with plenty of space up top.
Bad - The inside feels just as cramped as my BRZ, the rear seat may be even more useless though. The trunk and the opening are TINY. No putting even a small ice chest for track days in the back of it. And everyone is right, blind spots are massive, when trying to get on to the highway, I resorted to the "I'll just punch it to make sure no one is in the blind spot" to get to the onramp. It really feels like you're sitting in a bunker/submarine or something. I may go to a different dealer and just see if I can get a longer test drive in just an SS or lower model to see if it's something I could get used to.
Also, in reality, the car is so fast..........I think it really may be too much for HPDE for me. Call me an intermediate/advanced driver, the car is just, my mind is still warped a bit.
STi - You can tell it's still a quick car, but it felt slow compared to the SS, obviously. Brakes and suspension feel fantastic (again short test drive), the ergo was good and I fit with plenty of room with the helmet. This car has the STi short shifter, gearbox also felt good, but man is it a close ratio gearbox! But I would want the Limited for the better stereo, but would need to see if I can still get a helmet on with the moonroof that comes with the STi Limited, I wish the seat was still 1-2" lower so you feel more like your sitting IN the car vs ON it.
Much more useable space, decent sized trunk, etc. I could actually put an ice chest, small set of tools and a couple of foldy chairs in the car for HPDE use. The STi for '18 has bigger 6 Piston Brembo's with larger rotors and two piston rears, new DCCD tuning and it's all electric now instead of the hydraulic/electric hybrid in the past. And according to dyno's, the '18 is putting down 15-20whp more than the 15-17 STi's.
I spent awhile chatting with the sales guy, who is an enthusiast that owns a WRX and a BRZ and has sold Subaru's for a long time. He said the engine stuff is overblown and that 99 out 100 times, the issues come from guys that beat the crap out of them, have crappy mods and or tune's, and don't properly maintain them, or all 3.
Rolled into the throttle in 2nd, the rear wiggled a bit before settling in and hooking, grab third back in the throttle, WHOOPS already north of 100mph. Just a short test drive, but the car feels solid, well built. No tramlining from the massive Goodyears (285/305), gearbox felt good. And in the normal suspension mode it's plenty comfortable for a DD. Fit with my helmet on with plenty of space up top.
Bad - The inside feels just as cramped as my BRZ, the rear seat may be even more useless though. The trunk and the opening are TINY. No putting even a small ice chest for track days in the back of it. And everyone is right, blind spots are massive, when trying to get on to the highway, I resorted to the "I'll just punch it to make sure no one is in the blind spot" to get to the onramp. It really feels like you're sitting in a bunker/submarine or something. I may go to a different dealer and just see if I can get a longer test drive in just an SS or lower model to see if it's something I could get used to.
Also, in reality, the car is so fast..........I think it really may be too much for HPDE for me. Call me an intermediate/advanced driver, the car is just, my mind is still warped a bit.
STi - You can tell it's still a quick car, but it felt slow compared to the SS, obviously. Brakes and suspension feel fantastic (again short test drive), the ergo was good and I fit with plenty of room with the helmet. This car has the STi short shifter, gearbox also felt good, but man is it a close ratio gearbox! But I would want the Limited for the better stereo, but would need to see if I can still get a helmet on with the moonroof that comes with the STi Limited, I wish the seat was still 1-2" lower so you feel more like your sitting IN the car vs ON it.
Much more useable space, decent sized trunk, etc. I could actually put an ice chest, small set of tools and a couple of foldy chairs in the car for HPDE use. The STi for '18 has bigger 6 Piston Brembo's with larger rotors and two piston rears, new DCCD tuning and it's all electric now instead of the hydraulic/electric hybrid in the past. And according to dyno's, the '18 is putting down 15-20whp more than the 15-17 STi's.
I spent awhile chatting with the sales guy, who is an enthusiast that owns a WRX and a BRZ and has sold Subaru's for a long time. He said the engine stuff is overblown and that 99 out 100 times, the issues come from guys that beat the crap out of them, have crappy mods and or tune's, and don't properly maintain them, or all 3.
#3064
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
I meant just have a reputable shop do all the work for you. Only suggested it because it seemed like you liked that body style and this way you could enjoy it without worrying about warranty or parts breaking on ya.
#3065
Also, I can't in good conscious pay a shop to do work like that. Build the engine or something sure, but I'd do all the install stuff so I'd be familiar with it.
#3066
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
Gotcha, I actually dig the styling on the new one as well. And it seems from what I've read it can fit a bit more tire under the fenders too.
Also, I can't in good conscious pay a shop to do work like that. Build the engine or something sure, but I'd do all the install stuff so I'd be familiar with it.
Also, I can't in good conscious pay a shop to do work like that. Build the engine or something sure, but I'd do all the install stuff so I'd be familiar with it.
Get a donor car with a blown motor (5-6k?). Have a shop do the work to build up a forged motor that can handle more than the trans can (3-5k?). Have the same shop go through and swap any worn parts: bushings,suspension etc (2-3k). And you can install the motor etc yourself if you want. Have someone tune it with a tune focused on longevity (dd) and a slightly more aggressive map for autocross or such if you want.
For sub 20k you should have a car that is the style you originally wanted with better handling/suspension etc of the newer car. According to KBB the book value for a private party sale of one of these cars with 120k miles on it is 14 grand. I picked 06 STI with standard options. If yours is built up right, you shouldn't be too much higher than that so it's not like you'd hit crazy depreciation etc.
I totally understand why you wouldn't want to putz around with something like this, but if you're looking to get into something you wanted like this... it might be a good way to do things.
Vlad, any thoughts?
#3067
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,784
Total Cats: 42
I have some RCE yellows on 5x114 STI struts if anyone is interested (GD guys).
Struts could use a rebuild or revalve. Or just use the springs.
$300 for mt.net peeps.
figured id post in here too, not getting many bites lol
Struts could use a rebuild or revalve. Or just use the springs.
$300 for mt.net peeps.
figured id post in here too, not getting many bites lol
#3068
Yeah, that's what I meant.
Get a donor car with a blown motor (5-6k?). Have a shop do the work to build up a forged motor that can handle more than the trans can (3-5k?). Have the same shop go through and swap any worn parts: bushings,suspension etc (2-3k). And you can install the motor etc yourself if you want. Have someone tune it with a tune focused on longevity (dd) and a slightly more aggressive map for autocross or such if you want.
For sub 20k you should have a car that is the style you originally wanted with better handling/suspension etc of the newer car. According to KBB the book value for a private party sale of one of these cars with 120k miles on it is 14 grand. I picked 06 STI with standard options. If yours is built up right, you shouldn't be too much higher than that so it's not like you'd hit crazy depreciation etc.
I totally understand why you wouldn't want to putz around with something like this, but if you're looking to get into something you wanted like this... it might be a good way to do things.
Vlad, any thoughts?
Get a donor car with a blown motor (5-6k?). Have a shop do the work to build up a forged motor that can handle more than the trans can (3-5k?). Have the same shop go through and swap any worn parts: bushings,suspension etc (2-3k). And you can install the motor etc yourself if you want. Have someone tune it with a tune focused on longevity (dd) and a slightly more aggressive map for autocross or such if you want.
For sub 20k you should have a car that is the style you originally wanted with better handling/suspension etc of the newer car. According to KBB the book value for a private party sale of one of these cars with 120k miles on it is 14 grand. I picked 06 STI with standard options. If yours is built up right, you shouldn't be too much higher than that so it's not like you'd hit crazy depreciation etc.
I totally understand why you wouldn't want to putz around with something like this, but if you're looking to get into something you wanted like this... it might be a good way to do things.
Vlad, any thoughts?
That's why a new, track ready car is so appealing. Pads, fluids, tires, GO. Enjoy it have fun, come home, and not worry about "it needs this, I need to do that" etc. It's why the SS 1LE is calling to me so hard, and it needs NOTHING! It's just so far above my current skill level, it's a bit nerve racking.
#3074
I'm determined not to make a split decision this time like I did on the BRZ. I had driven a BRZ but wasn't enough to pull the trigger. A few months later the NC top started leaking and the BOSE failed on back to back days, I didn't feel like dropping all that time and expense into a nearly 10 year old car.
The Subaru dealership happened to call me a few days later and gave me a good trade-in price so I pulled the trigger.
The Subaru dealership happened to call me a few days later and gave me a good trade-in price so I pulled the trigger.
#3075
^Sucks the resell value of the twins isn't great. I'm doing my best to keep mine OEM af. I want to fix some minor paint scratches, apply tint, and put OEM style LEDs all around. Or at least use TRD/OEM parts. As of late, the heated seats have been great monogram package ftw.
I'm sure I'll be needing new tires soon as well. I still have the originals that came with the car and show signs of cracking.
I'm sure I'll be needing new tires soon as well. I still have the originals that came with the car and show signs of cracking.
#3076
^Sucks the resell value of the twins isn't great. I'm doing my best to keep mine OEM af. I want to fix some minor paint scratches, apply tint, and put OEM style LEDs all around. Or at least use TRD/OEM parts. As of late, the heated seats have been great monogram package ftw.
I'm sure I'll be needing new tires soon as well. I still have the originals that came with the car and show signs of cracking.
I'm sure I'll be needing new tires soon as well. I still have the originals that came with the car and show signs of cracking.
If you were local, I'd make you a screaming deal on my MXP cat-back and Ground Control coilovers.
#3078
To be honest, I don't think the 6ULs translate well to the twins. But the weight/price/quality are definitely there. LOL that you would mention S/C on this forum. Full Race EFR kit or become an hero. JDL if you want the UEL rumble.
I've put some different cars on the radar. If I can be patient this year and save up more, 981 S w/PDK and Sport Chrono + or a new M2 become the front runners.
If I can't be patient, something like an E92 M3 w/DCT and $2k to change the rod bearings and motor mounts as soon as I own it become a front runner.
I've put some different cars on the radar. If I can be patient this year and save up more, 981 S w/PDK and Sport Chrono + or a new M2 become the front runners.
If I can't be patient, something like an E92 M3 w/DCT and $2k to change the rod bearings and motor mounts as soon as I own it become a front runner.
#3080
I haven't driven one in a long time, but I remember being blown away by the combination of luxury/power/handling when I did. Because of the rod bearing, throttle actuator, idle valve fears..........prices have dropped immensely.
You can find clean, low mileage E92 M3s in the $35-40k range. Like 25k miles, dealer maintained, no accident cars.
And apparently a cat delete + tune is worth ~50-60hp.
You can find clean, low mileage E92 M3s in the $35-40k range. Like 25k miles, dealer maintained, no accident cars.
And apparently a cat delete + tune is worth ~50-60hp.