z31maniac

I was about to post "2006 Miata"

Thankfully I parked outside that night and a neighbor knocked on the door to let me know.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

So in the Miata world we have very convenient places to order little OEM things, places like Rosenthal or JimEllis. If one were looking for the same type of things for a Subaru, like OEM bolts, trim clips, etc, what would be your go-to for such things?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

theres a slew of online dealers and you just kind of find the cheapest one for the thing you want. Like Park subaru was the cheapest for the driveshaft, but new england subaru was the cheapest for the stuff to rebuild the center diff. There's also subaru genuine parts for stuff from the subaru aftermarket catalog like group-n mounts.

None of these seem like the amazing deal that mazda comp or rosenthal are though. Clips and Fasteners is probably the place to go to get oem like bolts and clips.

z31maniac

To be honest, I use JimEllis to look up the parts I need then order them from the local Mazda dealer.

I've purchased enough stuff from them I get the wholesale discount and it's usually here the next day and I don't have to pay shipping. Just a 5 minute drive from my work.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I use http://www.fredbeansparts.com/

18psi

iTrader: (76)

G,
If you're ever in my area I have an account with Subaru 20% off

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Awesome, thanks guys. Erryone gets props!

I was actually just looking for replacement OEM rubber pedal pad cover things for the WRX. Finally got some rain last night and discovered the grippy surface on the rubber pads is worn completely smooth, made for an interesting drive into work this morning in my office shoes.

Bitchin'! Order me a set and PM me a total + shipping. You can send it to me along with the OEM jack/crank handle/tow eye/lug wrench/bag that's sitting in your garage

18psi

iTrader: (76)

pm me part numbers. I r lazy

ofspunk7

I would check and see if your local dealerships give club discounts. On of our local Subaru chains gives everyone on the forum 20% off parts and 30% off labor. As well anything over $100 my buddies shop can usually get better than 20% off. However, with shipping it negates the discount. Do you have a local subie club?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Not that I'm aware of. If there is one out here, I'm probably not interested in associated

WRX has these pedals:


I thought I could just replace the rubber part, but it seems to be far more complicated than that.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yesterday i accidently revved the motor up thinking I was already in first gear. Then when I tried to quickly speed off since I was sitting at a green light I burnt up the clutch bad.

Then for the next 30 miles or so, everytime I left from a stop I could smell the clutch.

I parked the car and 3 hours later I had to head out to the store. same thing: I could smell the clutch at every launch.

This morning I didn't notice anything, but I've never experienced anything like that before. Clutch does not slip under power, but it's too easy to burn that thing up from a hard start. I had issues doing that when I first bought the car.

Hopefully I didn't prematurelly kill the thing.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Wasnt SOA doing 1 free replacement on clutch for the GR chassis because of the hill start assist was killing clutches? I heard something to that effect but didnt pay much attention to it because GR.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nope. And Scott - lurn2drive n00b

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i can drive. i was first burning up the clutch when i bought the car cause i was unaware of hill assist.

yesterday i slipped it cause i had the revs all up and then pretty much just dumped it into 1st. car has too much traction that it will just go, but the clutch is what spins.


here's a video of it:

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I fixed my noise. Not sure if it was the center diff bearings or the driveshaft but its gone. Now on the jack stands it was making a weird clunking clanking noise when running it over 40mph but it wasnt spinning the drivers front wheel. Sounds fine on the actual road so I blame it on the diff's being pissed off.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

My 05' Outback XT Limited, 123K miles on it





At 118K, car has a new Subaru shortblock, rebuilt heads, new subaru stock turbo, 1500 dollars worth of new doodads under the hood that were old and needed to be replaced (belts, hoses, plastic pieces, factory rubber intake hoses, motor mounts, etc), cleaned/flow tested injectors, cobb catted downpipe, S2 91 Octane tune from cobb (I run 93 when possible). Has new shocks, some new bushings, and swaybar bushings and end links. Broken factory stereo #3 as well, only the two rear speakers play.

Also has 12" top mount pusher fan on IC, sealed to hood scoop, BPIC mod, and I insulated the factory CAI box so it wouldn't heat soak as bad. Before/after testing showed a 80*F heatsoak in 10 minutes before, now 35-40 in same timeframe.

This made a NICE difference in driveability off idle, especially after sitting at a red light for a while in traffic, or extended idling as that would previously heatsoak the intake and TMIC very bad. Now AIT after the IC are basically ambient at idle.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Ordered my hakka R2s for snows. Going to decimate everyone in the snow, and maybe an ice race or two.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Pat, you ended up going with an accessport?

MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

Got RCE yellow springs and buying RCE sways tomorrow as soon as I figure out why the RCE website says they are 0 dollars.

Got a basemap from EQ for now, should be way better than the stock tune. Once this horrid ******* understeer is fixed I will be happy. kartboy short shifter is in my future.

This car makes me enjoy working on my own projects again, but I have no desire to create another moneypit like my old Miata lol. I think the farthest I'll go is a shortblock with stronger pistons, and hopefully I'll be happy with my light suspension mods.

EDIT: IT CANNOT BE REPEATED ENOUGH NASIOC IS A STEAMING PILE OF BULLSHIT AND UNABOMBER IS A ******* TOOL

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yes.....