Please excuse my ignorance, but I thought anodizing was for corrosion protection/aesthetic reasons. Does it "harden" the surface of the aluminum, too?

As for finishing procedures, I do not pay for those.
There are some serious factories/production plants doing that sort of work, and they gladly help me out with a few pieces. I mean what's dipping a coilover sleeve in a tank big enough for a large car, right?

Ebay coilover sleeves cost about $200 when you add shipping to Turkey. That's part of the reason why I am building my own.

A dab of engine oil works great for me.

Use ATF if you are not going to be removing/replacing the injectors. ATF makes o-rings swell and make a killer seal.

Love this. Not a lot of better cars for $25k, assuming the swap was done right.

Daily Turismo: DTO: Why Didn't I Think Of That? 1999 Porsche 911 LS1 Power

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379863063

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379863063

That gives me a boner.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1379863661


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1379863661


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1379863661


http://cassandraparkin.files.wordpre...nished-cat.png

So something is wrong with my sump/well pump or septic line because it backed up and shot water all over the fucking place. :vash:

Now to rip apart the drywall and find out what the hell is going on...

Well i gotta swap them every few years so... last time i installed my dws i used a tiny bit of grease on them. Definitely wasnt enough because i had a hell of a time getting them out a month ago. Also ripped 1 oring that goes around the top of the injector where the top goes into the fuel rail because i guess no oil was on there. On a side note just pulled the stockers yesterday and when i installed them i lubed them up like a virgin and they poped out willingly.

What do you mean rip apart the drywall? The only proper thing is for you to punch the wall as hard as you can and as many times as needed to get it out of your way.

I have a heavy bag hanging in my office now ;)

Change of plans. Dug up the yard instead to find the septic tank. Getting it pumped this week and hope that's the problem.

Make sure you get a reputable company to do it. And watch them. If they don't pump both sides of the tank / both sides of the baffle, they are doing it wrong and it will cost you BIG money in the near future to have your field lines dug up and fixed, or replaced. A lot of companies do it the lazy way and either only pump from one side, or knock a small hole in the lid and stick the hose down into the tank without actually inspecting the inside. I installed and repaired septic systems and field lines for several years and we had to fix a LOT of messed up systems due to shitty jobs done by the previous Joe who came out to "fix it".

They also need both lids off so they can spray the sludge that was floating on the top of the water to break it up, and suck it out. It's too thick to pump out otherwise. If they don't get it out, when the tank begins to fill again, it WILL get past the baffle and get into your field lines. Also, try to look and see that there is a T on the field line side of the tank, short end pointing up, long end pointing down. If it doesn't have a T, you will again have field line problems, if you don't already. Back in the day, using a T in the line wasn't so common.

So in short, watch them, and if you see anything that looks half assed or like they are cutting corners, get on their ass about it. It could save you many thousands of dollars and a torn up muddy mess of a yard.

Damn man, you know your shit...

I really do. I've done that, AND worked in a lab doing microbiology, which required working with shit. Shit smells like money.

Haha, that's Nicks car. Build thread:
XceedSpeed

He also drives a lambo, or he did, and he's had a viper, i guess he's selling this to get another viper. Probably to daily drive. lol

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379926881

My o-rings were all chewed up, or so i thought. I put them back in, and they moulded right to the head where they were before. I did however bust two of my pintle caps.

Protip:

Curry powder and ground cinnamon look almost completely identical and tend to be sold in identical containers.

They are not interchangeable.

If this means anything to anyone feel my pain.

Making CUDA + Ubuntu 13.04 + GTX 780m + NVidia Drivers + Bumblebee + Cpyrit/hashcat all play nice is not easy. All that for 8000 PMKs/s lol. I guess I'll leave that work to my desktop since it gets 80-100k PMKs/s. Oh well at least it's working, and has limited capability.

Are there any large common problems with the Ford 7.3L diesel engines? I am possibly going to go look at 2 or 3 this weekend in big econoline E-350's. They would be of the 95-97 variety.

This just in...

Apparently payload specs for a '99 Miata have been revised.
(and it's not GVWsomethingorother pussyass rating, we're talking payload here)

One thousand pounds, in the trunk, up a steep hill with no bumps, and a total of four trips.
That's about 2 tons of paving stones I hauled up the hill to patch the parking lot.
All that time, effort and money spent to beef up the car is finally put to proper use.

For the record, no clutch slip - just a little wheel spin on take off, and rear wheels were more than 1.5" inside the fenders.

Ford 7.3's are generally considered one of the best Diesel motors ever built. I hope you search goes well, and you come home with a nice one. I had a 2001 that is missed.

One thing that may help you negotiations is what is commonly thought to be a real main seal leak. 7.3 RMS are bullet proof, they NEVER leak. Eventually the new low sulfur diesel gets to the seals (seals made prior too) of stuff on top of the motor i.e. the fuel filter and causes leaks. The leaked fuel loosens the old oil as it slowly runs down the valley and then down the back of the motor, coming out at the hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Most people see this oily mess and are sure the RMS is gone, not so. $17 worth of o rings from dieselorings.com solves the issue. One could talk down an unsuspecting owner with this information.

If you get one, I have a mild programer and the decorative cover over the fuel filter still. Pm me if interested.

Finally got around to putting my shock spacers on this morning. Fuck me was that a task with just myself and a floor jack. I had no jack stands, so I couldn't take the sway bar off like I needed to, so I had to fight against it. While sitting on a 3ft sturdy truckers pry bar attached to a 2 foot flimsy craftsman pry bar, I managed to slip them on the top of the mounts, after a lot of fighting and having several layers of skin ripped off my finger when the bar slipped and the mount slammed into my hand. Ride height is now perfect up front. An even gap all the way around, front, back and top of the tire to fender. Before the top of the tire was about even or slightly tucked, with the typical 1.5" gap front and rear (9 and 3 oclock). Now to tackle the rears, once I make 2 more spacers.

I also think the FM springs are starting to lose some height and strength. They feel softer, and seem to ride a bit lower than they used to. Can't wait to afford a set of Mono Flex.

Damn it, Jesse! Get some jackstands before you end up hospitalized.