tight work

 

I drove it 30miles last night back to my house. Coming off the higway back to and idle it felt like it was on 3-cly. as soon as i got it back up to speed, felt like it switched back and all was well. As long as it drove it it was fine, idle and went back to crap idle. Started pinging at low boost and low ignition timing.

Couldn't think of anything. Then this morning it overheated on the way to work. Had to drive with the heater on in 80°F and 80% humdity weather, not fun. I suspect my timing belt jumped a tooth, or two, or three.

Blah.

 

That sucks...now don't go warping that head.

 

jeez sorry to hear, but get on it asap man!

 

it's the zip ties yo

 

Maybe you should get the car sorted out before attempting to daily drive it

Good luck!

 

no **** :gay:

my place is about 25-30 miles from the garage I'm wokring in...I had driven it a good 20-30miles before I decided to take the trip back to my place.

Had it apart again today, looks like the timing belt might have jumped a tooth, the belt itself looked to be in the correct place, with 19 teeth between the marks and the crank pulley at TDC. but what I noticed was a lot of slack on the belt, enough that I could possibly rip it off without touching the tensioner. Hopefully, it was able to jump a tooth and back or something. gotta throw the valve cover back on see where the timing is set at now. Otherwise I havent got a clue...but the low vacuum when it stumbles at idle makes me think timing.

 

How retarded would the timing have to be to make the car overheat? I wouldn't instantly assume that all the issues are caused by the same thing.

Wouldn't the timing belt get royally fucked up if it jumped? I remember back in the day I had a (drum roll please) 1976 Chevette, When the timing belt went it removed half the teeth from the timing belt. It would seem to be a little unlikely that this happeded to you but there is no sign on the belt. Maybe I'm wrong though.

I'd honestly be surprised if the shitty idle and low vac are related to your heating issues. You did verify timing when you first got it running, right?

 

yeah I had to.

I had to reset the trigger angle in MS. acutally when I first check them timing it was probably -10°. SO i have to advance it a lot back to 10°. (from a trigger angle of 73 to 51)

If you search "timing belt overheating" at m.net, you'll see its not uncommon for one or two teeth off to cause it to overheat. I believe one tooth is something like 21° of timing, not sure.

When the timing is that low, the vacuum is also low. I have no leaks otherwise, running off a map sensor here.

unless i have two seperate problems...a MS tuning issue and overheating problem I'm still saying timing belt was to blame. Checked my thermostat and it opens just at 180° like it should, fans were working, i have heater so coolant is moving, no leaks, full radiator.....

 

drill the front of the belt, about 1/8" in from the back edge and put a small zip tie through, it'll keep it from walking forward.

 

omg dude, will it ever end?

 

Nope. Trust me.

 

wait until I find a ******* zip tie smiley.

 

These are pretty happy looking:http://cgi.ebay.com/1000PCS-FLUORESC...QQcmdZViewItem

 

haha

scott he wouldn't tease you if he didn't think you were worth his time.

 

51 is kind of borderline. You should have rotated the cas some to give more trigger angle. MS requires at least 50 to obtain full spark advance.

Guess it doesn't matter at this point since it looks like a new TB is in your future, but keep it in mind for when you get that thing going again.

 

It's one thing if he makes fun of my cheapness/laziness, but attacking when i made no references of such in the porsche thread is beyond me. The only mention of them from me is when I pointed them out for something who couldn't see them.

Obviously. I like zipties. Use plenty of them.

 

you forgot your turkey **** IC pipe welds too

 

Come on, why can't we all get along?