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Just a little anecdote, but I know of a handful of supersix evos out of only a few guys I know who ride them that have all had issues with cracking. I still like them- but based on my knowledge I'd buy with a warranty and try not to crash.
You can't go wrong with the Emonda, really nice to ride. I don't know if they are any more resilient.
Just a little anecdote, but I know of a handful of supersix evos out of only a few guys I know who ride them that have all had issues with cracking. I still like them- but based on my knowledge I'd buy with a warranty and try not to crash.
You can't go wrong with the Emonda, really nice to ride. I don't know if they are any more resilient.
I bought mine used, put 18,000 miles on it, I've crashed it five times, the bike tumbled three times, and I broke it and repaired it once when I bike rack fell on it. I'll buy another, for sure.
Do you mean horizontal top tube? that would be a good thing if you use a harbor freight bike rack.
Originally Posted by emilio700
My list came down to
16+ Cannondale Supersix Evo
16+ Trek Emonda SLR
17' Cervelo R5
In the end, the Supersix has the fewest number of parts I'd have to swap out to suit me and was also the least expensive. Also, no dealers have the new R5 yet.
Local Trek store has a '16 Emonda SLR 10 in my size on closeout for $7499. Absurdly expensive but it was $13k just a year ago. But it is,, wait for it... 11lbs w/o pedals
That's a pretty good deal. I think if I start saving now, by the time I am ready to buy the new Tarmac SL6 will be out. I hope that is a least as light as the Crux Spy shots look pretty to me, I like dropped seat stays.
Ended up ordering a custom build from local boutique builder Stage 21 Bikes. Unlike most shops, they deduct the retail value of all the components you substitute. $1500 more than the stock D/A mechanical bike but upgraded to Di2, added a Stages power meter plus several light carbon bits. The OEM Di2 version of the Supersix Evo is a whopping $4100 more than the D/A mechanical version. So I get a much nicer than OEM and save like $2500, stoked. Should have it in a week or so.
Well, I fucked-up on the tubular wheels. The rear is fine but the front DT-350 hub cannot convert to 15mm axle. I had a set of these hubs previously and it's strange, axle to QR works but QR to axle does not. I guess my options are to chase bearings and axle parts around or buy another $70 front hub and get it laced-in for $40. Thoughts?
I don't know much about thruaxle hubs or DT in general, other than what I can see off pictures on that hub's website. You could take your hub apart and see if there's a commercially available bearing that will work with an ID of 15mm and get crafty. Otherwise just buy the correct hub and relace it, sell current QR hub.
You'd think for inventory, etc they would just have the one 100mm body and make the innards and endcaps for either QR or thru. They must have a large inventory of (earlier) QR bodies. Oh well.
EDIT: My rear wheel (38mm LB carbon, 24 hole on powertap G3, CXRay Jbends) had a tiny axial wobble to it (radially and dish were still good). I had some free time last week so I decided to true it up. Deflated my tire and got it to within .003 TIR axially. Pumped up the tire, put it on the bike, and the wobble is there again. Deflate tire, and it's perfect. I must have a few spokes that aren't adequately tensioned, right? I'm 95% sure I made sure they all are where they should be, that's sorta what you do when you true a wheel. I removed tire, replaced rim tape (some of the old velox was in the bead in spots) and tube, and it's much better but still there visibly. It's bad to true a wheel when a tire is inflated right?
A ~1500 mile Spesh turbo pro 25mm weights exactly as much as a new GP2Ksii 25mm. Reinforced packaging tape from the shipping department weighs ~30g less per wheel than Velox.
If any of you MTB guys find your way around SE Michigan, you gotta check out Big Kame at DTE Energy Foundation Trail. Not my video, this is only my first year riding so keeping momentum up on that trail was tough!
I don't know much about thruaxle hubs or DT in general, other than what I can see off pictures on that hub's website. You could take your hub apart and see if there's a commercially available bearing that will work with an ID of 15mm and get crafty. Otherwise just buy the correct hub and relace it, sell current QR hub.
You'd think for inventory, etc they would just have the one 100mm body and make the innards and endcaps for either QR or thru. They must have a large inventory of (earlier) QR bodies. Oh well.
EDIT: My rear wheel (38mm LB carbon, 24 hole on powertap G3, CXRay Jbends) had a tiny axial wobble to it (radially and dish were still good). I had some free time last week so I decided to true it up. Deflated my tire and got it to within .003 TIR axially. Pumped up the tire, put it on the bike, and the wobble is there again. Deflate tire, and it's perfect. I must have a few spokes that aren't adequately tensioned, right? I'm 95% sure I made sure they all are where they should be, that's sorta what you do when you true a wheel. I removed tire, replaced rim tape (some of the old velox was in the bead in spots) and tube, and it's much better but still there visibly. It's bad to true a wheel when a tire is inflated right?
A ~1500 mile Spesh turbo pro 25mm weights exactly as much as a new GP2Ksii 25mm. Reinforced packaging tape from the shipping department weighs ~30g less per wheel than Velox.
is it possible that the rim wall wasn't laid up properly and there is an area that's extra thick? if the wheel is true without the tire its either your tire install, tire itself or rim thickness that's off. You can install a tire that wobbles pretty easy if you don't pay attention. inflate the tire to 40psi and then try to roll it off the bead with your fingers as you work your way around the wheel. that's always gotten me the closest to perfect.
pretty sure someone with a shop account can see this stuff.
Contact my buddy Dustin @Southern WheelWorks. He does a lot of DTSwiss wheel building and can help you get to where you want to be.
Oh, thanks. I am going to chat with the local shop, if they can't get the parts I may chat with your dogg. I'm pretty sure I'd rather press bearings and axles in and out than re-lace. Can the spokes be reused typically?
looking at DTswiss site, your right. no conversion kits available. options would be to slowly de-tension your wheel (don't cut the spokes - will ruin the rim), buy the new front hub and new spokes/nipples and re-use your rim. or sell the wheel and buy a new one with proper hub.
Just got a .pdf flyer in my inbox. Uploaded to our server so you can download it. http://www.949racing.com/bicycle/16_..._Rims_Sale.pdf
$59 to $99 for hookless Kevlar carbon rims. No idea how to order since the website doesn't show the sale price. I presume email so I included both of the ones I have for them.
I'm ordering a set of the CSR heavy XC's to build some cheap AM wheels for the Pivot 429. 24mm internal should be a big step from the old Stans Crest which are 19mm internal I think.
Yah but for really strong beater AM wheels it's a great deal. Found a pair NIB OEM Cannondale hubs for $50 on ebay. DT competitions for maybe $45. I'll be at maybe $300 for the set all in and they'll be indestructible.
06-27-2017, 07:30 PM
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Spy shots look pretty to me, I like dropped seat stays.
