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Congrats Emilio, though I’m used to seeing wins from you 🤪
Need some diet help. Currently 183lbs with a belly. Need to get to 170. Thinking of switching to mostly veggies and fruits and cutting out frequent weeknight drinking, also cutting out eating past 7ish. Any other thoughts? My diet is crap and I can gain so much by cleaning up
Thanks,
Guardiola's tips are pretty similar to mine. It's good to have a goal weight based on BMI (body mass index). Google that for a calculator. Healthy for a man is about 21.5 on the lean end to maybe 24.5 on the muscly end. 21.5~22, assuming body fat is close to 10% or less, is a good all round weight for a cyclist. If climbing matters to you, that can dip down to 19.8. I hover at 19.9~20.2 (6-3") because I want to go up hills faster than anyone on the planet in my age group Plenty of really strong local riders with BMI's above 25 and low body fat, they just suffer on longer climbs and generally don't have the aerobic efficiency of the skinny riders. That extra muscle gets you explosiveness ( short hills, sharp accelerations on the flat) at the cost of "fuel economy".
A have a few basic guidelines for my diet and maintaining my weight targets
- Lots of water. Few ounces soon as you wake up. Min of 1L a day if you don't ride. 1/3L in the hour before bed. Being dehydrated when you sleep slows down metabolism so you don't recover. Other concern about dehydration during sleep is calorie burning. Body needs hydration to do work, rebuild during sleep. That "work" raises metabolic rate, which generates more core temp and burns calories. If I go to bed dehyrated, I might only lose 1/2 lb during the night. If I go to bed hydrated, I'll wake up at some point to take a leak, drink some more and go back to bed. I then wake up 2-3lbs lighter than if I was dehydrated. I'll also be cold during the night if I'm dehydrated but feel warmer or kick covers off when well hydrated. That's the difference between low and high metabolism. Body releases HGH during REM sleep. So good, deep, long sleep is vital to recovery, keeping metabolic rate high and burning calories.
- Snack, don't binge then starve. The entire western style of big breakfast, lunch, dinner with nothing in between is an artifact of our agrarian roots. It has no place in a modern lifestyle. Eat smaller meals, keep energy up with high protein, or fatty or low glycemic snacks. I eat nuts, cheese, protein shake during the day to keep energy up and manage hunger.
- Dinner. I basically don't eat dinner on days I don't train. On days I do train, I eat only a small, high protein dinner. Essentially, we don't need dinner most of the time. I do a small breakfast with good protein, normal sized lunch and minimal dinner. I'll snack when I get home, maybe 150-300 calories. Try to stop eating well before bed. Keeping high protein in diet helps stave off hunger.
- Protein intake should be like hydration.. constant. An athlete needs a constant, steady supply of protein. At 160 lbs, I eat a minimum of 60g off but usually more like 90-120g per day.
-Fat and carbs. Don't be afraid of fat. An athlete burns a lot and you need it in your diet. It's just calories. Carbs are what mess with your metabolism if you over do it. Basic outline, I cut carbs way back on days I don't train, just sticking to protein and fat. On days you train, learn to match you carb intake to work load. You are basically trying to keep muscle glycogen topped off without over fueling. It's take practice and paying close attention to weight, energy level, calories burned during training. Understand that repeated or long rides will raise metabolism for many hours or even a full day after training. Recover and fuel accordingly. One things that helps manage carbs is to start trimming starch and grains here and there. Burger on lettuce, salad with meat on it, home made charcuterie plate instead of dinner, things like that. When yo have done a long, high calorie burn ride, don't fret the carbs. Short 45 minute interval workout, maybe skip the pizza.
- Don't obsess too much about the quality and carb/fat/protein ratio as much as total quantity of calories. Despite the efforts of the multi-billion dollar diet and sports nutrition industries, weight management is just simple calorie management. I promise you could give you a diet of just donuts, soda pop and water and I could have you drop weight. I would simply restrict calories. That said, your body is an engine burning fuel just like a car. Better quality fuel equals better performance. But no fuel means no performance, too much fuel means no performance, not enough fuel means you blow up. The right amount and high octane for that engine.
Looking for new wheels. 29" 15x100 and 12x142; XD freehub. Going with DT350 hubs.
Thinking about buying the house brand rims from BWW. Anyone know anything about them?
$550 for a sub 1700 gram wheelset. I can get Stan's Arch EX rims with the same hubs for $530, and weight goes up to 1850.
Not a weight-weenie by any means, but I spent the money for my first carbon frame and I've become a little more conscious about weights.
Open to suggestions. Would like to stay with DT Swiss hubs.
If anyone in the Seattle area is available to crew for me at Cyclocross Nationals Dec 12, please shoot me an email info@949racing.com
Some bike mechanic experienced helpful but not absolutely necessary. Location is Fort Steilacoom Park https://goo.gl/maps/SUtYDCZN9Xcgww4X6
Warning: It could be some hard, cold, wet work. It can be a muddy, messy job for those 45 minutes
It is likely to rain, muddy course. Race is 45 minutes, course about 1.3 miles, maybe 5-7 laps. Pit in middle of course so riders pass it twice per lap.
Riders allowed to swing off course through pit and take spare bike. Pit crew then washes mud off bike and most critically, drivetran. Puts it in gear and gets ready to hand bike off to ride as soon as half a lap later. Worst case scenario has rider
taking a fresh bike once or twice a lap. That means crew is scrambling through muddy pit to bike pressure wash station wearing rain gear then rushing back to swap line to hand off bike to rider 5 minutes later.. for 40 minutes.
As you might imagine, this can make or break a race.
I arrive Dec 10. If you need help with lodging, meals, fuel etc I can provide. If you have no experience, I can give you the basics on the 11th. I might rent a pressure washer depending on what facilities the even host sets up and the weather/course conditions.
Building up a new bike just for gravel, 2020 Trek Domane SLR. Last few years I have been converting my 1x cross bike with 33mm tubulars over to 2x gravel with 38mm tubeless each year. Getting tired of that and looking for a more focused build for "gravel racing". That is perhaps distinct from "gravel riding".
Most gravel bikes being offered now have huge tire clearance, rack mounts, slow handling and upright riding positions aimed more at casual riders. A gravel race bike doesn't need rack mounts, has something closer to pro road racing geometry, less tire clearance and much quicker handling. Thus my choice of the Domane, which is Trek's all around and endurance design but with published tire clearance spec for 38mm tires. I measured 54mm between the stays so a 40mm wide tire should have 7mm clearance on each side. Plenty. It's also a bit aero, which I dig. Domane has the front and rear Iso decouplers to absorb vibration. Same system on the Trek Boone I have been racing for the last two years and I love it. Ordered the optional Pro Endurance geometry which is significantly longer and lower than the standard bike.
This is a render off the Trek Project One website. Mine will have orange bar tape and a few different parts, but that's more or less what it will look like. Custom paint!
Madone is aero focused so a lot less tire clearance. I ran Hutchinson Sector 28's every year except 2019 which was Hutchinson Override 35c. 35 is really more tire than you need for BWR though. BWR is won or lost on the paved sections of which there are significant amounts. The paved sections are all ridden like a P,1,2 road race. I will probably run 28c tubeless GP5000's on the Domane for BWR on 21mm internal clinchers.
Madone is aero focused so a lot less tire clearance. I ran Hutchinson Sector 28's every year except 2019 which was Hutchinson Override 35c. 35 is really more tire than you need for BWR though. BWR is won or lost on the paved sections of which there are significant amounts. The paved sections are all ridden like a P,1,2 road race. I will probably run 28c tubeless GP5000's on the Domane for BWR on 21mm internal clinchers.
Thanks for the reply. I've got some time to decide but those are really helpful datapoints. I already have some 28c panaracers, and a brand new set of 28c gp5000 tubeless. The Madone will fit 32c, so it may still be an option (but with 28s). I would prefer disc, so that limits my options from what I have. I'm also a lot heavier than you, so that may factor in my decision.
There's a section called Lake Hodges that had a few Rock gardens that were pretty bad. But the local Park service went through and pulled them all out. Turned it into it damn freeway. You could do it on a road bike now, in fact a lot of people do. Overall if the course is anything like the last two years rocks are not really a concern. The section called Sandy bandy as you might imagine, has a few sand sections. Still not a big deal on small tires if you're a decent bike handler. For BWR I would recommend 28s if you are a good bike handler, 32's if you're a bit sketchy off road.
Also stage as early as you can. The first hour is like a hard P-1-2 road Race. Super fast and positioning is critical. The last few years it is gone west towards the ocean on Del Dios then made a sharp left onto the first bit of singletrack. The entrance to the single-track is a huge log jam. That you will lose the front group, lose the draft and basically lose a half-hour before you ever touch dirt. Also plan on taking the neutral hand ups from the first and possibly second feed zone. If you stop to reuse and fill up your own bottles you will lose the front group and never see them again. I purposely start the race with some shity bottles that I plan on throwing away. The rest is just remembering to eat and drink. See you there.
Building up a new bike just for gravel, 2020 Trek Domane SLR. Last few years I have been converting my 1x cross bike with 33mm tubulars over to 2x gravel with 38mm tubeless each year. Getting tired of that and looking for a more focused build for "gravel racing". That is perhaps distinct from "gravel riding".
Most gravel bikes being offered now have huge tire clearance, rack mounts, slow handling and upright riding positions aimed more at casual riders. A gravel race bike doesn't need rack mounts, has something closer to pro road racing geometry, less tire clearance and much quicker handling. Thus my choice of the Domane, which is Trek's all around and endurance design but with published tire clearance spec for 38mm tires. I measured 54mm between the stays so a 40mm wide tire should have 7mm clearance on each side. Plenty. It's also a bit aero, which I dig. Domane has the front and rear Iso decouplers to absorb vibration. Same system on the Trek Boone I have been racing for the last two years and I love it. Ordered the optional Pro Endurance geometry which is significantly longer and lower than the standard bike.
This is a render off the Trek Project One website. Mine will have orange bar tape and a few different parts, but that's more or less what it will look like. Custom paint!
I have been pondering this exact same question, and a Domane was not something that had been on my radar, although it probably should be. I think I'm still highly leaning toward the Cervelo Aspero though, as it's got stated clearance for 44mm tires, but the same geometry as the Domane, and has the adjustable rake option.
I have been pondering this exact same question, and a Domane was not something that had been on my radar, although it probably should be. I think I'm still highly leaning toward the Cervelo Aspero though, as it's got stated clearance for 44mm tires, but the same geometry as the Domane, and has the adjustable rake option.
Aspero is a badass bike. Was finger hovering on buy button when new Domane was announced. Aspero will build up probably a pound lighter than Domane SLR. For me, the Iso decouplers are the deal maker. Done lots of gravel rides and races on the Boone and I am a convert. Test rode a Topstone and it was pretty plush. But hard efforts would get it to move around, undamped. Plus no front solution on Topstone. For me at least, I'd consider the Aspero if I was mostly doing shorter 2-4hr rides on graded, maintained roads. Some of the 6hr+ rides/races I do are on roads with little or no maintenance so shock absorption starts to be a bigger factor in rider fatigue.
Aspero is a badass bike. Was finger hovering on buy button when new Domane was announced. Aspero will build up probably a pound lighter than Domane SLR. For me, the Iso decouplers are the deal maker. Done lots of gravel rides and races on the Boone and I am a convert. Test rode a Topstone and it was pretty plush. But hard efforts would get it to move around, undamped. Plus no front solution on Topstone. For me at least, I'd consider the Aspero if I was mostly doing shorter 2-4hr rides on graded, maintained roads. Some of the 6hr+ rides/races I do are on roads with little or no maintenance so shock absorption starts to be a bigger factor in rider fatigue.
I understand completely. I have not spent a meaningful amount of time on an Isospeed bike (other than my Procaliber, but that doesn't really count), but I would assume there is some point where having more tire volume is more advantageous than frame compliance (specifically Isospeed, since that's way beyond normal frame compliance). For me, some of the key races near me do some portions of the race on single track, so I think that tire volume is probably more important in my specific use case. I am watching your build with interest though.
Started my winter training plan on TrainerRoad, going swell so far. Finally hit the 300w FTP mark I wanted too. This was a great year
Also if anyone is interested I am looking to sell this Gen2 Stages crank arm for Shimano, 172.5mm, minty with no shoe rub or many marks at all. For a stages it works really well, they get a bad reputation but this one never did me wrong, I just went dual sided so no use for this now. It’s Ultegra 6800 but will work with most Shimano cranks, you guys probably know more about compatability than I do.
Lakewood, WA
~45° and light rain all week. Course was muddy, slick but surprisingly fast. Knarly, super steep rutted, off camber descents with huge roots sprinkled about, just waiting to grab your front tire and toss you face first into the muck.
Started on front row (of about 8 rows). I got a really bad start, uncharacteristic of me to do so. Lap times were close for the top 7 riders. I was 14th after the first run up about 2min into the race. Fought my way back to 3rd at the end.
Was closing rapidly on 1st and 2nd but ran out of race. I had the fastest last lap by 8s over anyone else in my race. Definitely had the legs to win again but not the start sealed my fate. Didn't do quite hard enough an effort during warm up, did get clipped in until second pedal stroke and too small a chainring had me spun out at 122rpm (31.8mph) long before the first turn.
Not devastated, just disappointed I couldn't put it all together. But that's why the win at nationals means so much. It isn't easy. You have to be crazy fit, totally focused and not make any major mistakes. As close as this race was, only small mistakes ended up deciding things. Top 3 covered by 14s
With the 2020 Trek Domane SLR gaining so much tire clearance, I saw that it fit my needs for a gravel race bike perfectly. Looking forward to running fenders on it for wet winter road rides. Standard Domane Endurance geometry was too tall for me. The lower Pro Endurance geometry only available through their Project One custom site. Loudest orange evar.
60 CM Pro Endurance geometry Dura Ace Di2 D/A power meter 180mm cranks Ultegra 46/34T D/A 140mm rotors Ultegra RX805 clutch derailleur D/A front derailleur XT 11-40T cassette Bontrager 42cm x 12cm XXX one piece carbon bars Specialized power saddle Crank Bros Egg Beater 11 pedals Carbon cages
DT240 hubs Sapim CX ray spokes Light Bicycle 23mm internal carbon tubeless Michelin Power Gravel 35c
Tire clearance in rear is 54mm. The Michelins measure 37.2mm on my wheels. Easily room for a 40c pushed out to 42mm on a wide rim. Running fenders will require smaller tires of course. Winter road plan is 28c GP500 tubeless
My recent reality is cold/sunny gravel rides or Zwifting. Ohio has a shockingly active Gravel scene, and a full local race/event calendar in 2020. Several groups training for Kanza/Steamboat/etc every weekend even in below freezing temps.
I picked up a Saris(CycleOps) H3 smart trainer for Black Friday and started zwifitng.
My FTP is way up, and I surpassed the 2.5 avg w/kg limit for D class last night. The shorter 30-90 minutes “rides” on the trainer are way different than what I used to do in socal(3-6 hour adventure rides, regardless of bike) and I’m seeing quick fitness gains.
Cycleops Magnus (Saris M2) user here. Have you done the mountain bike course on Watopia yet?
My ant+ signal is flakey so during group rides (i.e. tour de zwift) I use bluetooth connected via the companion app. I can't record the ride on my watch at the same time but at least I don't get the few-second long random power drops.
All was well during stage 2 when I tried to close out amazon music to save phone power and I accidentally closed the companion app. 40seconds to reconnect. Damnit! It ended up being a hell of a workout trying to catch back up as much as I could. Very fun.
09-30-2019, 03:35 PM
My Fueling Tips
Plenty of really strong local riders with BMI's above 25 and low body fat, they just suffer on longer climbs and generally don't have the aerobic efficiency of the skinny riders. That extra muscle gets you explosiveness ( short hills, sharp accelerations on the flat) at the cost of "fuel economy".
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