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It would be nice to get the left shifter to page thru the garmin screens cause...ehh well I guess it's a nice gimic, but to do that think this is what I would have to do:
1. Replace the SM-BMR1 external battery holder with the BM-DN100 (both use the SM-BTR1 battery)
2. Replace the SM-EW67-A-E junction A with the SM-EW90 and buy two wires to go to each shifter, cause for whatever reason the wires-built-in EW67 junction doesn't work with the bluetooth transmitters
3. Buy the EW-WU101 and a little wire to connect it in line to the RD. I'd get the 101 so I can easily swap it to my TT bike, which already has the new internal battery and SM-EW90 5 port.
So a good amount of $$ just to make my left shifter buttons do something. Not really worth it at this time, IF the XTR rear derailleur shifts with my 6770 shifter and existing wires/junctions/battery. I was able to charge the SM-BTR1 today after cleaning off the charger's contacts, and the derailleur should be here in a week so I'll know then.
Well the XTR rear derailleur won't work with the SM-EW67A. It works fine if I take the SM-EW90 from my TT bike. Ehh what's another $70 for a new 3 port EW90.
The XTR keeps shifting if I hold down the button, my 6770 RD doesn't do that. Nice.
Well the XTR rear derailleur won't work with the SM-EW67A. It works fine if I take the SM-EW90 from my TT bike. Ehh what's another $70 for a new 3 port EW90.
The XTR keeps shifting if I hold down the button, my 6770 RD doesn't do that. Nice.
Any programming is in the component. IOW, if the RD is programmed to shift faster. I set all my Di2 RD's to max shift speed, for example. Hold down button to long and you get lotsa shifts.
No reason I know of that XTR RD would not work with EW67A
Any programming is in the component. IOW, if the RD is programmed to shift faster. I set all my Di2 RD's to max shift speed, for example. Hold down button to long and you get lotsa shifts.
No reason I know of that XTR RD would not work with EW67A
Interesting. I guess I can change that with my charging/usb cable and the EW90. I never updated the firmwares before as, well, everything works great on the other bike so why bother.
The EW67A will shift the 6770 rear without the FD or left shifter connected. But replace the old ultegra rd with the newer xtr RD and nothing. I tried each combo of junction A's, batteries, shifters I could think of. The EW67A will only work with the 6770 era components. Odd. The XTR does work with the old battery/holder and shifters, if I use the newer Junction A
The issue with the EW67A may be firmware, as I'm sure it's the original firmware from 2013/4. That's if it even has firmware. But if it does, I do not think you can update it with the EW90 port, cause that would be two junction A's in a system and I don't think that communicates for updates. You would have to use the older di2 update box which I don't have.
Sorry if I misunderstood, are you attempting to run an Ultegra FD and XTR RD? If so, that is currently impossible. e-tube software will not allow road and mtb derailleurs to run together. Has to do with Shimanos standards for auto trimming, FD range, RD capacity and what not.
Di2 MTB RD can only be used 1x or with MTB FD. Same for road.
it went something like this:
all 6770, works fine.
Unplug FD 6770, rear still shifts
unplug left side shifter, rear still shifts
Swap the rear 6770 with the XTR, no shifting on the XTR.
Swap the EW67A with EW90 5 port, XTR shifts.
next: buy EW90 3port it seems. Oh, and some short wires to go from the 3 port to the shifters.
it went something like this:
all 6770, works fine.
Unplug FD 6770, rear still shifts
unplug left side shifter, rear still shifts
Swap the rear 6770 with the XTR, no shifting on the XTR.
Swap the EW67A with EW90 5 port, XTR shifts.
next: buy EW90 3port it seems. Oh, and some short wires to go from the 3 port to the shifters.
Did you hook up e-tube app for each config? You should do that, and also scan for any firmware updates if needed. Again, XTR 1x should work with any Di2 shifter road or MTB of any generation. Junction box should not matter, at least in my experience.
Did you hook up e-tube app for each config? You should do that, and also scan for any firmware updates if needed. Again, XTR 1x should work with any Di2 shifter road or MTB of any generation. Junction box should not matter, at least in my experience.
I did not hook up the etube app ever. I'll look more into that. But is it possible to have the EW67A attached while also having the EW90 attached? The EW90 is where you connect your computer to the etube app.
Dunno, seems like it should be OK as they serve two different primary functions. But yeah, do e-tube. If I have an issue, plugging into app and updating always fixes.. eventually
I know most of y’all have moved on from rim brakes and into the world of disc brakes, but I figured I throw this up for those of us still stuck in the past.
I’ve been on bit of a wheel building kick over the past 6-8 months after catching a couple of sales from a Chinese rim manufacturer last year. I started out building a set of 50mm tubulars that weighed in around 1250g, followed by a set of 60mm carbon clinchers that came in about 1550g. However, there was still one set that I had been wanting to build for quite a while – a sub 1000g set of carbon tubulars.
I started off with 20/24 hole, 23mm wide, 25mm deep rims that weighed in at 262g & 267g. I laced them to a set of Tune Mig70/Mag170 hubs with Pillar’s MegaLite SS spokes (2X lacing all around). I usually use Sapim CX-Rays, but decided to try something a little different and lighter this time. I had a little extra time last weekend and was able to finish getting them all trued up. The front wheel came in at 427g and the rear wheel came in at 552g.
I then glued on a set of Veloflex Roubaix tubs and took them out for a quick spin on Monday night. While they don’t role quite as fast as a deep section wheel, they spin up much quicker (as you'd expect). I was also really surprised by how quick and responsive the steering felt. Looking forward to getting some more miles on these.
Still rocking this steed, about to change the chain, this one has 10,000+ miles and isn't stretched to .5 yet but I figure its time. Recently switched from GP4000 to GP5000 with Latex tubes, ride is really nice, and these run more true to size than the 4000 did. Those measured at 28mm, these are 26mm, which works with my wheels better since those flare to 27mm right behind the brake surface. Have done some awesome rides on this bike, just crossed 15,000 miles. Looking forward to many more!
Instead of group rides, the local club is doing a weekly strava segment challenge. I good idea I think, it is getting me off zwift and back out into the real world. And I'm realizing I need to be close to 30mph before the segment starts. You would likely crush it alex, but perhaps a bit too far of a drive for you. Mostly south of me, north of mount holly. That area.
All of my chains still read "new" on my park tool thing. I just don't put out the power and/or ride in abrasive conditions I guess.
Perhaps in a drunken stupor, I ordered the wrong Absolute Black chainring for my bike. Is anyone interested in a new 44T narrow-wide for the shimano bolt pattern 110x4, before I ship this back to poland/germany/whereever? It's "ultegra grey" which is ever so slightly less black than the black-black rings.
Back to my DI2, the old front junction needed a firmware update to communicate with the XTR rear derailleur, and I had no way of doing that at home. Connecting it to my 5 port junction A caused yellow flags in the shimano software, unable to update with two junction A's present. A new 3 port front junction sourced and now everything communicates nicely. Three holes drilled into the cannondale for internal DI2 wiring. Now I just need my 'shipped' wheelset, and of course the 110x5 chainring.
Instead of group rides, the local club is doing a weekly strava segment challenge. I good idea I think, it is getting me off zwift and back out into the real world. And I'm realizing I need to be close to 30mph before the segment starts. You would likely crush it alex, but perhaps a bit too far of a drive for you. Mostly south of me, north of mount holly. That area.
All of my chains still read "new" on my park tool thing. I just don't put out the power and/or ride in abrasive conditions I guess.
Perhaps in a drunken stupor, I ordered the wrong Absolute Black chainring for my bike. Is anyone interested in a new 44T narrow-wide for the shimano bolt pattern 110x4, before I ship this back to poland/germany/whereever? It's "ultegra grey" which is ever so slightly less black than the black-black rings.
Back to my DI2, the old front junction needed a firmware update to communicate with the XTR rear derailleur, and I had no way of doing that at home. Connecting it to my 5 port junction A caused yellow flags in the shimano software, unable to update with two junction A's present. A new 3 port front junction sourced and now everything communicates nicely. Three holes drilled into the cannondale for internal DI2 wiring. Now I just need my 'shipped' wheelset, and of course the 110x5 chainring.
I started putting down power much smoother and more linear which I think helps, I used to have a very different power profile and never cleaned my stuff. Now I clean everything often and I think that combined with a flatter power curve helps. I rarely even get out of the saddle anymore
Also, been using these Favero Assioma DUO pedals for a few months now and happy with the results, charges last a while, power readings are accurate and consistent, and although I still prefer walking in SPD SL cleats, these have been just fine in that regard too. I had a Stages before which favored my L balance a bit so its also nice to have true dual sided power numbers.
Side note if anyone wants a TrainerRoad trial, I have 5 free months to give out (one month per person)
I’ve been following reviews of those pedals, but love my speedplay too much to switch.
Caad update: I got a used Pro PLT alloy aero bar, a new carbon headset cover and my Wheels MFG 24mm outboard conversion BB.
I sent 3-4 PMs to eBay sellers overseas and got one to do a mixed groupset. So I’ve got a mostly R7000 105 groupset with an R8000 cassette/chain and deleted bottom bracket coming. When it arrives, the 105 crank will go on my Zwift bike and the r8000 Ultegra crank will move to the Caad.
Kalloy Uno stem and Pro tape/top cap to match the bar.
Mixed 105 R7000 and Ultegra R8000 groupset arrived today, so musical bicycles has happened.
1: Swap the Ultegra 6800 crank off the old roadie for the new 105 R7000.
2. Swap DA9000 Stages left arm from gravel bike for the 6800 left side..
3. Remove BB30 bearings from CAAD10 and install Wheels MFG BB30Outboard 24mm bottom bracket.
4. Install mixed 6800 left and 9000 right side crankset on CAAD.
5. Remove 10spd cassette and replace with new R8000 11-30 11spd cassette.
Still waiting on the black, 100mm stem, housings, bar tape, carbon brake pads, and spindle spacer/seal kit.
Getting back into my dirty side with more MTB, and probably the only time I can match Emilio on anything (bike color)
Had to buy a new cassette cause all my power....I mean neglect of drivetrain, ate my other one. Also went with an X01 chain this time instead of GX Old trashed cassette All done up and riding great Condo life, second floor balcony bucket bike wash Threw on this old road saddle I had. Never cared for it on the road but loving it on the MTB. Gonna slam it forward to see if it helps with climbing. The one downside is the rather slack seattube angle of the bike
Going to start playing with the shock and fork pressures and settings a bit as I don’t really know what they’re supposed to feel like. Feel lost in all this MTB stuff, on the road I can just go fast but there’s so much to learn. The road training definitely pays off for MTB I can push the pedals pretty hard but people give weird looks to the guy in spandex on an orange bike comes flying by
Oh and I added some orange ESI grips, didn’t like them color wise at first but I do now
Last edited by Mazdaspeeder; 05-20-2020 at 10:54 PM.
04-22-2020, 06:32 PM
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