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I stoned the hammer on my 10/22 following the first link Sam posted, ended up very nice. But I had nothing aftermarket/"legit" to compare it to. So when I got my second 10/22, I sent both triggers out to brimstone. Got a tier 3 & 2.
They're Meh. While being light, there's creep in both. For $35 it could be worth it to not risk messing it up yourself, depending on your thoughts on that.
CCI Quiets dont even make a sount in my bolt gun with can on it. You only hear the firing pin, and then you hear it hit the ground in front of the berm because they drop silly fast. You literally just put what you're trying to hit at 100 yards at the bottom of the scope with how I have mine zeroed.
CCI Quiets dont even make a sount in my bolt gun with can on it. You only hear the firing pin, and then you hear it hit the ground in front of the berm because they drop silly fast. You literally just put what you're trying to hit at 100 yards at the bottom of the scope with how I have mine zeroed.
CCI Quiets dont even make a sount in my bolt gun with can on it. You only hear the firing pin, and then you hear it hit the ground in front of the berm because they drop silly fast. You literally just put what you're trying to hit at 100 yards at the bottom of the scope with how I have mine zeroed.
Have you tried Aguila Colibri? Even at 25 yds they qualify as indirect fire...
I'm going to do the best to describe the scenerio:
zeroed my scope at 50yds, level with the target.
shot a three shot group at 100yds, with probably a 10-15ft elevation increase, and the grouping was like SIX INCHES from where I was aiming.
Is this my lack of ballistics knowledge, or is something fishy here? 16x at 100yds with bipods, given a shot a grouping of them in the same spot, I'm pretty confident I wasn't flinching or anything.
Please explain exactly what you did to 'zero'? POA=POI at 50yds? Boresighted at 50yds? What ammo?
ARs have a 2.5" offset (sightline distance above the bore) with stock irons, and your setup looks to be even higher... this can make for big errors at longer ranges when zeroed close up.
I use a 50yd zero on ARs set up for "interpersonal communication"... with 55g, zero repeats at 200yd, and is ~2" high at 100yds, so you've got something else going on.
Where was your shot group in relation to where you were aiming? Just telling us it was off by 6" doesn't give us a whole lot to go on. Was it high? Low? A little to the left?
Also, with that massive scope + bull barrel, I'd recommend zeroing at 100 yards only if you can't find somewhere to zero at 200 yards.
Where was your shot group in relation to where you were aiming? Just telling us it was off by 6" doesn't give us a whole lot to go on. Was it high? Low? A little to the left?
Also, with that massive scope + bull barrel, I'd recommend zeroing at 100 yards only if you can't find somewhere to zero at 200 yards.
My bad. For some reason I thought I'd just posted a picture of the target instead of describing where they were, but obviously I didn't. I'm bad at posting hastily from my phone.
Grouping was roughly 4.5" Up and 4.5" left at 125yds (probably a more accurate guess than 100yds), compared to where it was at 50yds.. Precision wasn't bad, roughly 1" groupings at 50yds and 100. It's in the twenties here though, and I don't have the steadiest of hands. So, I'll probably shoot from a vice next time I take it to the range to try and dial in the scope a little better.
Correct, I just did POA=POI, shoot 2, adjust, repeat. The only reason i started at 50 was because initially I wasn't even hitting the target at 100 with the scope off the shelf, and I don't have a boresight. I have access to shoot 200yds, just not until I'm back in SC next week.
My plan was to reset the zero on my scope at 100yds once it was dialed in, then do the same at 200 but write down the dial indications and not reset the zero. Then keep a ledger of how I have it configured at a given range with a given ammo. Though I've just about exhausted what ammo I've purchased, and soon will be primarily reloads.
My bad. For some reason I thought I'd just posted a picture of the target instead of describing where they were, but obviously I didn't. I'm bad at posting hastily from my phone.
Grouping was roughly 4.5" Up and 4.5" left at 125yds (probably a more accurate guess than 100yds), compared to where it was at 50yds.. Precision wasn't bad, roughly 1" groupings at 50yds and 100. It's in the twenties here though, and I don't have the steadiest of hands. So, I'll probably shoot from a vice next time I take it to the range to try and dial in the scope a little better.
Correct, I just did POA=POI, shoot 2, adjust, repeat. The only reason i started at 50 was because initially I wasn't even hitting the target at 100 with the scope off the shelf, and I don't have a boresight. I have access to shoot 200yds, just not until I'm back in SC next week.
My plan was to reset the zero on my scope at 100yds once it was dialed in, then do the same at 200 but write down the dial indications and not reset the zero. Then keep a ledger of how I have it configured at a given range with a given ammo. Though I've just about exhausted what ammo I've purchased, and soon will be primarily reloads.
Just gonna throw this out there... you've got a crap scope. Those UTG "Snipers" are like $100 on sale and have a ton of "features" that in order to get the price down means that something has to be sacrificed. Quality control is the first thing to go because most people don't bother taking back broken $100 scopes, they just go into a box to disappear forever. They're certainly not going back after a year and a couple range sessions. Glass is going to be one step above a leaded windowpane, and you'll be lucky if the internals survive 500rds of .223. You're also going to have crap tracking because the tolerances for the reticle adjustment can be measured in minute of barn-door, and you'll probably have settling issues for at least one or two rounds after each adjustment as the internals get fully seated under recoil. You might get lucky and have a Wednesday model, but I guarantee after 500rds, it'll be broken, or you'll discover something about it that makes you regret buying it.
That Independence isn't bad stuff... and combined with your franken-gun and scope, I think it's a miracle if you managed a legit 1" group at 100yds.
For stupid cheap plinking .223 ammo... once-fired 24gr of ARComp inside LakeCity with 55gr Hornady FMJ's... any primer will do, but Wolf's are cheapest. The low charge weight means you should get around 8-10 firings out of each brass with no annealing. I have yet to find even the most shot-out beater that can't manage at least 2" groups with this load.
Grouping was roughly 4.5" Up and 4.5" left at 125yds (probably a more accurate guess than 100yds), compared to where it was at 50yds.. Precision wasn't bad, roughly 1" groupings at 50yds and 100. It's in the twenties here though, and I don't have the steadiest of hands. So, I'll probably shoot from a vice next time I take it to the range to try and dial in the scope a little better.
Correct, I just did POA=POI, shoot 2, adjust, repeat. The only reason i started at 50 was because initially I wasn't even hitting the target at 100 with the scope off the shelf, and I don't have a boresight. I have access to shoot 200yds, just not until I'm back in SC next week.
It was cheap ammo,
I wouldn't worry about it until you shoot it a little more under better conditions, and from a solid rest. Like I noted above, a 50yd zero on a milspec AR results in ~2" high at 100... given the differences to your setup, you're not out of the ballpark.
You're not getting any new models of handguns ever until the microstamping of brass comes off the books. Its physically impossible to meet the letter of the law, there's no way to engrave the serial number in the casing legibly in the cycle time of a semiauto.
You're not getting any new models of handguns ever until the microstamping of brass comes off the books. Its physically impossible to meet the letter of the law, there's no way to engrave the serial number in the casing legibly in the cycle time of a semiauto.
I've been unable to sell my AR10 despite a very competitive price. I figured I don't need a 20" 6.8spc and a 16" .308 semi-auto for hunting, so it's on the block.
I thought about building a legit 6.5 Creedmoor upper for it, but a legit barrel alone costs as much as a new Ruger American Predator... which I have discovered is the new hotness for budget precision. I've pretty much decided on the RPR in 6.5CM and throwing it in an MDTAC LSS chassis. I'll be in for the whole gun with a stock and Atlas knockoff bipod for about $900. I'm waiting on Athlon to release their new scopes at Shot Show and see how they compare. Their Argos 6-24x model is about $350 for a full-featured FFP scope... reviews are great for the price, so this summer when I'm looking to buy, some people will have had them for a year and with a few more data-points.
I'm also looking very hard at getting a Savage action and using a drop-in barrel. The RPR is only a 22" barrel, and the sweet spot for 6.5CM is 24"... and that'll put me at around $1100 for the gun if I go the Savage route. However, the Savage Stealth is only about $900... but I like the idea of "building" my own gun rather than buying it. 1st world problems.
I've been unable to sell my AR10 despite a very competitive price. I figured I don't need a 20" 6.8spc and a 16" .308 semi-auto for hunting, so it's on the block.
I thought about building a legit 6.5 Creedmoor upper for it, but a legit barrel alone costs as much as a new Ruger American Predator... which I have discovered is the new hotness for budget precision. I've pretty much decided on the RPR in 6.5CM and throwing it in an MDTAC LSS chassis. I'll be in for the whole gun with a stock and Atlas knockoff bipod for about $900. I'm waiting on Athlon to release their new scopes at Shot Show and see how they compare. Their Argos 6-24x model is about $350 for a full-featured FFP scope... reviews are great for the price, so this summer when I'm looking to buy, some people will have had them for a year and with a few more data-points.
I'm also looking very hard at getting a Savage action and using a drop-in barrel. The RPR is only a 22" barrel, and the sweet spot for 6.5CM is 24"... and that'll put me at around $1100 for the gun if I go the Savage route. However, the Savage Stealth is only about $900... but I like the idea of "building" my own gun rather than buying it. 1st world problems.
We'll be twinsies!
I love savage, but don't discount the howa barreled actions either.
There is an LSS chasis for those as well.
We'll be twinsies!
I love savage, but don't discount the howa barreled actions either.
There is an LSS chasis for those as well.
For $400 or less, MDT has the market cornered for a budget chassis. Since the damned thing is only a piece of aluminum you bolt your receiver to, I really don't know why there aren't any competitors trying to get in even cheaper for a basic chassis. The AR parts compatibility is a no-brainer for most people getting started.
I've looked at Savage, Howa, and Ruger... the Savage and Howa appear to have the edge for factory accuracy, but the chassis mostly evens the playing field since the Ruger stock is supposed to be the suckiest. My problem with a barreled action is that standard hunting/sporter barrels are hot after 5 rounds and that does not equate to a couple hours at a range doing load development.. so I'd need a barrel anyways. The Ruger Predator is more of a "heavy sporter", but not a true bull... I read that about 8-10rds is all you're gonna get before a cooling period.
I've got time to wait until I commit and pull the trigger, so I'm also keeping an eye out for deals on the Savage 10 FCP-SR... sweet 24" threaded bull barrel. What sucks is that the Savage BA Stealth is only $350 more, has a legit trued action, better barrel, and comes with what is essentially the LS chassis.
The ruger stock is a bit sucky, although not nearly as bad as I assumed it would be.
The forend is very skinny, and there is excess plastic from the molding here and there.
I have heard that the Stealth has a very skinny forend as well, which many benchrest shooters don't care for.
I like the barrel profile, but mine is supposed to be more of a dual purpose rig.
I'll fire a long string through it this weekend and report on poi shift.
I gotta have a threaded barrel... otherwise it's another $100 to the total. The Ruger is a great deal off the shelf without the chassis, I've gotta have the ****, and the Stealth is the whole package for the same price. I think it's all gonna come down to me spotting a killer "can't pass it up" deal in the next couple months.
Ruger American Predator + complete LSS Chassis = $950
Savage Action + Precision Barrel + complete LSS Chassis = $1150
Savage Stealth= $950
Savage 10 FCP-SR + complete LSS Chassis = $1100
The Savage Accutrigger can be tuned really sweet on your workbench. I've seen a couple videos of the DIY trigger mods on the Ruger American and the results look pretty similar... stone the friction surfaces and trim a coil off the sear spring.
12-29-2016, 11:26 AM
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