capitalcrew

If you are ever unhappy with prime shipping times email amazon and they'll give you a month free, or more depending on how bad they messed up.

Guardiola

iTrader: (1)

I just hate when 2 day delivery means they "deliver" to the post office. Smartpost is crap. Usually adds 2 days to delivery time.

babydriver

yeah i've been frustrated with prime lately too.. if I order something at 7am on a tuesday it miiight get here by thursday. If I order something on a sunday day it seems like its at least 4 days.. and yeah when they drop crap off at the post office it pisses me off

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

My stuff arrived... Rise Armament 140 trigger is absolutely ****... close to the definition of "zero creep".

But the $22 buffer tube kits were just random pieces thrown in a bubble-envelope, and one of of the end-plates had clearly been previously installed. Not impressed... will wait a week to see if I get a response back my previous complaint email and then see if they're interested in any repeat business. Buffer tubes themselves were in plastic bags and good quality.

Also... like I've been saying, prices are still coming down. It's little things and big things.

Just got an ebay email about some extended takedown pins I had sitting in my cart... 50% price drop to $5 a set with $2.50 shipping per order. Just grabbed 3 sets for $17.50ea.
Extended Takedown & Pivot Pin w/ Detents & Spring 223 556

Also, Aero Precision was selling their blem stripped uppers for $55... and my 10% off for mil takes that down to less than $50, which is the cheapest I've seen ANY stripped upper other than Andersons in a long time.

SchuylerArmsCo has had blem Aero uppers with a upper build kit on sale for $60 for the last couple weeks, which is a damned steal! I've got a few sets of upper-parts-kits laying around, so I was hoping I'd find an upper by itself for less and just this week, and Aero obliges with blems under $50 and free shipping. Sold out now.

Still looking for a Palmetto State Armory branded mil-spec stock if you've got one.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Slowly improving my 25m groups. About 30 rounds from a bench rest, bolt action with scope. Should be moving to semi-auto in a few weeks

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

^Practice makes perfect... trigger and breath control are things you can practice at home... assuming you can take your gun home?

Anybody who has access to Experticity (formerly Promotive) needs to get on that **** and check out the current deals on Savage and Bushnell. If you're military, you have access. Savage Arms just joined and is doing a huge discount on their entire model lineup of guns... I'm talking huge a huge discount. If you're in the market for a new rifle or shotgun, you need to look. I'm probably going to buy a Stealth in 6.5CM, it's just too good to pass on considering the price.

Bushnell is also having a ridiculous sale right now that I'm probably not gonna be able to pass up... check out the prices for the LRHS and LRTSi models they're selling... unreal markdown.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Can't take anything home yet, no licence/safe etc. Best I can do is practice once per week when we have range time. Currently trying to figure out the math behind mil dots and MOA.

Art

.

calteg

iTrader: (18)

This. Analogous to the kids that buy Xidas before ever turning a wheel in anger. First spend time behind the gun, then spend money on training, assess, repeat. Now think about modding the firearm, maybe.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure I agree with either of you. Not doing your homework on a purchase is just as bad as overthinking it... but overthinking only results in a bad decision if you're not informed. Sometimes, being informed means exactly what you're saying... practice practice practice the basics before you spend money on hardware upgrades. But that doesn't mean you should always buy a basic beater to start and then upgrade as you get better. As long as you can filter the internet commando advice out of your matrix, then choosing correctly the first time isn't so hard that you should be happy with "this gun is good enough for now"... eff that.

I don't agree that "most any barrel is far more accurate than most any person"... my experience is exactly the opposite. Despite the ever-increasing quality of entry-level firearms (particularly rifles), I know from personal experience that just a moderate amount of proper training can turn just about anybody into a great shooter. Old guys who've been shooting for decades and were taught by gran-pappy who didn't have a clue either and are proud of their 5" groups with their new rifle that anybody else can squeeze an inch out of is not a fair comparison.

True enthusiasts who do Appleseed stuff and take the time to be coached are typically great shots after their bad habits are erased. Like anything, practice practice practice is useless if what you're practicing will never allow you to grow because it's wrong.

As for MOA/MIL... there's gotta be a reason to choose either one. My 6.8spc is only good to 300yds... so I've got a fine crosshair scope on it that rocks my world. The gun is laser and I've done test shots for my dope... 5"/200yd, 10"250yds, 15"/300yds... and even if I'm off in my range estimation by 50yds (which I've never been), I'm still minute of deer in the vitals.

I don't for the life of me understand guys who put crazy-*** complicated reticles on a gun where their max shooting range only results in a 5" drop. I sure as hell don't need a BDC reticle (let alone a dot-type) to hold-over 5", or even 15". OTOH... once you get out past 400'ish yards, the drop on most calibers gets to the point that you're not within my tolerances for "ethical" hunting unless you're doing some actual calculation and have a scope that'll let you implement it. Even basic BDC scopes, PROVIDED you've actually don't some test shooting at those ranges, can be very accurate.

For example... the 6.5CM round (which is a pretty solid deer caliber out to 600yds) is very flat shooting. But if you're taking a 500yd shot, and your math is off and you guess 475yds or 525yds, there's a 10" drop difference for that 25yd fuckup... which means you're either going to spine the poor gal or just blow a front leg off... your fidelity with a normal BDC reticle might be enough to make a good shot based on your math, but if you haven't ranged the bitch with a solid laser rangefinder and are using a MIL or MOA system to get there, your probability of an ethical kill isn't anywhere near where mine needs to be.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Can't make up my mind what stocks to go with for this new twins build. BCG's will come from a local place, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna give DeltaTeamTactical another chance and get a couple of their 10" MLOK handguards. I'm all over the place with what barrel and profile. I think I want 16" lightweights, but will probably come down to what kind of deal I find. Still going to be well under $500ea and be pretty **** for quality.

Art

.

calteg

iTrader: (18)

https://aerospacearms.com/collection...-pencil-barrel

Coupon: FAXON brings it down to $148

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I have become interested in machining my own rifle parts. So, to that end, I need a barrel. I figure .22 is probably the cheapest, as I intend to make a takedown/survival rifle in the vein of the old M6.

So, where is the cheapest place to get gun barrels? Is there a better (i.e. cheaper) choice than .22?

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Do you want to do the machining of the barrel itself? You can buy a piece of bar or round stock and a reamer and do the entire thing yourself... or what most people would do is to buy a "blank" A blank is a piece of stock with the hole already drilled down the middle... it's rifled and ready to have the finishing and final machine work completed so that it can be put on whatever gun you want.

Green Mountain is probably the biggest barrel supplier in the US.

As for caliber... there's really no difference in manufacturing cost between a .22cal blank and a .338cal blank. It's just a piece of metal with a hole down in the middle... costs no more to drill a small hole vs. a big one in this application. Here is a ton of blanks in many calibers and states of finish... Put it on a lathe to shape whatever profile you want, and then machine the muzzle and give it a chamber... and attach an extension or machine to fit a specific receiver.
ROUND RIFLE BARREL BLANKS - 25" Round Barrel Blanks - Page 1 - Green Mountain Rifle Barrel Co.
NOTE: A .22lr blank is not the same as a .22caliber blank. .22lr barrels are actually .218 holes, whereas the typical .22 caliber (.223Remington, 5.56Nato, 22-250, etc...) are all .224 caliber holes.

.22lr is the cheapest and most widely available caliber in the USA. Supplies are back in stock just about everywhere and prices have come down in the past year to very reasonable levels. A .22lr with the right bullet is a capable caliber for small-game up to fox size out to about 50yds, but falls on it's face shortly after that. Capable of taking larger game with head-shots at very close range... deer from a tree stand at spitting distance if we're talking survival needs. It takes to suppressing very well and you can carry a ton of it in a very small volume. CCI Velociters, Aguila Supermaximum and a few other "high velocity" rounds get close to .22magnum energy and are not to be underestimated, and still manage to stay supersonic and retain 100ft/lbs at 100yds (assuming rifle not pistol).

The obvious choice in caliber if you want to step up from a rimfire and build centerfire is .223 Remington. Barrels will cost the same and machining a receiver shouldn't "cost" any more depending on your engineering. .223 Remington is a wonderfully versatile caliber with bullets ranging from 30gr to 90gr to tackle pretty much whatever you want.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Cheapest way to get a barrel onto a custom 22 is to buy a barrel liner, and put it in a barrel you bored. For light use, aka single shot, just the barrel liner itself is fine for a 22 as long as you at least put 3d printed plastic as support around the chamber.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Just my observation... I have no experience with liners.
While I think a barrel liner alone would be safe for a bullet to travel through once fired, just 3D plastic reinforcement would not be enough to safety contain even .22lr chamber pressure. Also, the whip you'd get from even a short barrel would make the thing very inaccurate. Ruger 10/22 factory take-off barrels are $40 on ebay all day long, which are coincidentally the cost of a decent liner.

I still like a 10/22 for a survival rifle. While the receiver is fairly "large" for a rimfire receiver there's plenty of meat to grind off for weight savings... and you can get a slim of CF barrel for it. Making a lightweight stock is pretty straightforward if not interested in aesthetics... or trim the shiz out of any factory stock. Plus it's a straightforward deal to home-accurize a 10/22 trigger group to get outstanding performance. I'd much rather have a 10rd flush rotary mag than single-feed if I'm trying to take down a squirrel for dinner at 50yds.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure its fine, there's plenty of 3d printed guns that used 3d printed barrels shooting 22lr and 380acp with only the 3d print plastic around the chamber. It would be a pistol only deal if you just left it completely unsupported.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Picked this up from a friend who was needing the cash. Probably paid top dollar, but it was for a good cause. Never been fired. Plan on breaking it in soon.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

not sure if troll...