This is amazing. Like wow. i have been gone for a while and I come back you guys have developed a whole new and improved ecu solution.

very very cool.

 

We aim to please

Got this little puppy out and meeting the needs of something like 100 different vehicles now (more than that surely, we just haven't listed some of the lower demand vehicles all out, we'll keep expanding the list though)

We're looking to keep expanding the DIYPNP line as it's a very flexible way to do PNPs for a huge number of vehicles, and we're trying to keep it affordable too (just dropped the price a bit). Next on the list, in no particular order, are the 01+ Miata connector (have samples of these now), which was also used by several other manufactuers. EEC-IV's, S13 and S14 240's which again crosses over to many other cars, the 88pin Bosch/Motronic, and the GM 80's 56pin stuff (Grand Nationals, Camaros, most 80's GM stuff really).

There's much to come here...

 

I read everything on your facebook page and your site last night, I was like the whole time.

Now im trying to convince myself not to upgrade from my MS3.0. To bad I still need to pass OBD2 inspection and can only do that with a parallel setup:(, you guys dont have a solution for that in the works by any chance? If not I guess i'll just run the DiyPNP and feed signal to the factory ecu...again.

 

Hi,

I just installed my DIYPNP again, after removing the C27 and installing my EGT circuit.

I have one problem (that was already there before the above) - I get a knock indication all the time -which means always, even at idle.

I didn't change anything to the settings I used with the normal MS2extra. I connected the Knocksense output to the DB15 and from there to the ADC2 port.

Any idea?

 

you will probably have to turn the sensitivity of the onboard knock circuit all the way down and then start increasing it when you hear knock. You shouldn't be getting any at idle. Make a set of det. cans to listen for knco while driving. If you hear knock, then make sure your knock sensor setup recorded the incident.

 

You got me wrong there - the Knocksense is pretty much dialed in. This must be some error I made with the wiring (which I don't see at the moment - as it is wired as mentioned above) or with the settings.

The Knock is set to low input which should be correct (and is what I used to run at the MS2)

Greets

 

I notice the 90-93 wiring map earlier in this thread says in excludes '93 California cars -- which is exactly what I have. What would I have to wire differently?

 

The only difference I know of offhand is the 93CA is wired from the factory for sequential injection.

 

Precisely; there are two more injector outputs. So you'd jumper INJ1 to 4Y and 4Z, and INJ2 to 4U and 4V. No other big changes.

Zaphod, what's your voltage reading at ADC2 with the key on and the engine off?

 

Thanks a lot guys - that's really helpful.

 

To update this thread I got my DIYPNP working great. Much improved over the stock ECU. Now to chase some forced induction.

 

I have recently picked up a 2003 mazdaspeed protege for a daily, and this cars stock fuel/spark maps suck. i didn't see the adapter to build a diypnp for it. getting any new ones soon?

 

That's a Ford EEC-V computer. Mazda ordered their connectors out of a catalog, but Ford designed theirs in house and is a bit possessive about their connectors. We're trying to find a way around that.

 

awesome, when you do, lemme know i will buy a diypnp for my MSP lol

 

Does the speed proto have a different PCM connector than non-speed? (I don't think it does but don't remember)

What I'm getting at, is you can get your hands on a proto PCM, rip out the connector, and solder it into the DIYPNP. Look at what Jim did to run DIYPNP on his NB2.

 

thats actually a good idea, i didn't even think of that. ill have to look into that. I suck at soldering and whatnot tho lol

Edit: its an extra 115$ for the ecu from ebay, I'll have to go look around the local junkyards

 

Was this confirmed as being correct? Thank you for posting this btw. Does anyone have any base maps they would care to share for a '97 normally aspirated 1.8? I have a '97 installed in my '90 and would like a decent place to start. Thanks again.

 

Miata start up maps are on our website
DIYPNP Available Models at DIYAutoTune.com

 

I have tried the Basemap (94/95) in my "new" 94er 1.8er Miata. Now i have seen, that the car wouldnīt run clean. The idle is very low. At the "Required Fuel" is "13". This is to much, i think. But wich value ist the right one? What can i do now. I have the original injectors an i donīt have a wideband. I thought, that this Maps are ready to run.

I have read the manuel for the DIYPNP Extra. I have calibratet the sensors, the ignition is set to 10 degrees and the cooling fan is configured. What have i do to now? I donīt want to kill my engine.

Is the injector- and ignitionmap at the basemap ready for a standart original Miata without any modifikations (like mine).

It would be very helpful and pleasant if anyone can send me a ready to run basemap for a original 94 miata?

 

Update:

Now ich have reduced the "Required Fuel" to a value of "7". Its leaner und the idle is much better. Its near by the original idle at about 900 rpm.

But i think, its not the correct way, because the calculated value with the original 1.8er injectors must be about "13" ..... whats going wrong here?

Thats my current "Basemap" ....