Agree on that. my big fat mother of turbo on a stock motor was able to make 100 hp at 3200.

Ben, what's your VVT map look like down there?

 

What would these numbers be on a Dynapack?

 

Same turbo and plumbing on stock -96 motor and spring wastegate made 100 hp at 3200 rpm previously. So it actually went down 200 rpm with new built engine and 99 manifold.

Yes, these numbers would be on DIYAutotune Dynapack.

Sorry Zabac and JayL, Flipside manifold fits, but the throttlebody didn't and the timeframe prevented modifying this combination to fit with everything.

Old dyno:

Thank you DIYAutotune for your support!

Here are couple cellphone pictures with graph.

 

And what does your locost weigh?

 

I needz 2560. Also, 230whp at 8psi with a stock 96 motor? Seems a bit optimistic, no?

 

not at all.

 

Who's dynapac? It could be + or - ~40 hp depending on how the dynapac is setup. The two I've used that are setup how they come from dynapac would be about 10% lower on hp and torque than a dynojet. But I guess diy has a dynapac.

 

A stock Miata makes under 100whp on our dyno. Your standard 12psi GT2560R FMII or BEGi S3 will make ~240 whp.

The straight exhaust and proper external wastegate on Heikki's locost allow the turbo to perform more efficiently than on a standard Miata. He's also .040 overbore, forged bottom end, valve springs, SUBs, etc etc.

This is the first turbo VVT car on our dyno, and it's the highest power BP engine we've tuned to date. I wasn't sure how VICS and VVT would play together, but turning on VICS resulted in a 10ft lb improvement from 3600 up.

 

I failed and confused tq and hp. Its at like 180-190tq at 3k from what it looks like, which is not bad at all.

 

there's nothing bad about that dyno plot AT ALL--except for being right-side-up maybe.

 

Yeah. Looks great. And I sold my squaretop. And ben probably still has his since he totally blew me off when I tried to buy his back in the day.

 

I would be interested to see the timing map for this.

 

Sorry man, didn't blow you off. We had a baby so daddy was busy and distracted.

 

No worries man, I'm just giving you a hard time. I ended up finding one anyway

 

Displacement? Is it a +1mm overbore?

Compression ratio?

 

The MAP/RPM curve looks odd for a 2560 with a nice open exhaust. Mine (FM2, FM 3" exhaust, 2560, built engine, 99 head) makes 200kpa by 3350 RPM, whereas that graph shows 3700.

It is a 2560, right? Not a typo for a 2860?

--Ian

 

1.5 MM overbore actually, block filler used in water jackets up to waterpump to add stiffness .
Wiseco pistons with 8.8 compression ratio after decking and adjusting the squish and compression ratio.

turbo info on my for sale ad:
The compressor has GARRET A/R 60 M24 1-1 on the casting.
The bearing housing has
HJ 01 06J
14411-69F00
466541-1
Turbine housing has Garret 2
turbine inlet flange is 72 mm x 45 mm with holes for 10 mm studs. T25.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...ops-etc-69843/

Same log manifold made from weld-els used in this setup.

 

any head work?

 

Homemade porting and deshrouding, evening out the compression, milling it clean, +1 valves, Inconel exhaust, Mazdacomp subs, Supertech single spring set. Also made room for bigger cams in the future. Some photos in the build thread.

Trying to avoid high rpm float/7500 rpm harmonics issues with lighter weight followers and heavier springs. The Supertech valves are heavier than stock.

The way the power curve is, I should not spend any time above 7000 unless it is short straight between turns and I can avoid shifting twice.

 

Was VVT tuned in the spoolup area? (3000-4000 RPM)