weird hiccup at 5000-6000rpm
#64
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The spark drops every time in load. However if I back off throttle minimally in boost, spark drops (Maintenence throttle mid corner). This is a recent problem, it once worked properly, even at 16psi rather than the current 11psi.
I can hold 100kpa to redline with no drop.
The spark drops every time in load. However if I back off throttle minimally in boost, spark drops (Maintenence throttle mid corner). This is a recent problem, it once worked properly, even at 16psi rather than the current 11psi.
I can hold 100kpa to redline with no drop.
Last edited by hustler; 09-16-2010 at 11:01 AM.
#67
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Ok, I\'m going to try the cap mod I guess, nothing like learning to solder a $700 PCB the night before a road trip. I\'m prepared to track my daily.
Ok, I\'m going to try the cap mod I guess, nothing like learning to solder a $700 PCB the night before a road trip. I\'m prepared to track my daily.
Last edited by hustler; 09-16-2010 at 11:23 AM.
#70
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Why would this problem develop after functioning properlyfor almost 2-years? I wonder if somethig else is wrong.
Does Radioshack sell these? How do I know poalrity? When I solder, do I heat the lead or board? Youtube's "how to solder" vies don't address that.
Thanks guys, my car wouldn't run without you.
Originally Posted by Braineack
you can probably just use the leads off the cap...then bend 90° them so the cap itself rests on the board.
Does Radioshack sell these? How do I know poalrity? When I solder, do I heat the lead or board? Youtube's "how to solder" vies don't address that.
Thanks guys, my car wouldn't run without you.
#71
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Honestly, I dunno, not quite sure what's going on.
radioshack should sell a 3,700uF cap, again, I'm unsure what size DIY uses within the units now. The leg with the longer lead goes to 12v, the short leg goes to ground.
When I solder, I like to heat up the lead I'm going to attach first, then "tin" it with some solder. Then, I heat up the area it's going to attach to, put it in place and let the solder from each merge.
I still use a $7 radio shack soldering iron for all my units. I bought a nice weller once for $0, but it died in 2 weeks.
radioshack should sell a 3,700uF cap, again, I'm unsure what size DIY uses within the units now. The leg with the longer lead goes to 12v, the short leg goes to ground.
When I solder, I like to heat up the lead I'm going to attach first, then "tin" it with some solder. Then, I heat up the area it's going to attach to, put it in place and let the solder from each merge.
I still use a $7 radio shack soldering iron for all my units. I bought a nice weller once for $0, but it died in 2 weeks.
#73
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email ben @ diyautotune.com and ask him.
if you wanna put it on the cop harness, you'd want to to buy two of the 4,700uF capacitors.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tic+capacitors
Now, IIRC, the arrow points to ground. seriously google it, i cant remember.
if you wanna put it on the cop harness, you'd want to to buy two of the 4,700uF capacitors.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tic+capacitors
Now, IIRC, the arrow points to ground. seriously google it, i cant remember.
#74
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Go to the drawers of parts that are usually somewhere in the back of the store, and find it yourself. It's hit and miss whether the employees know about those drawers, much less anything that's in them, or that it's how Radio Shack became as successful as it is today.
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