emerilnut

Ok, did some searching on the forum already, but I'm not quite finding what I'm looking for? Most of the information only has to do with turbos which will apply to me in a few months...

BUT....

I have a Jackson Racing header on my supercharged 95. I'm going to be installing an LC-1 some time in the next couple of days. In this case, is the existing O2 bung on the header going to be a good place to put the sensor? I'm not generating as much EGT as the turbo guys (only running 7psi peak boost). Jerry thinks I should just try it. But I don't want to spend an additional $100 to replace the Bosch sensor if I fry it.

Also, using the existing bung would save me like 5 hours of work because I have to remove the entire supercharger to get the header out to weld the bung... vs. just screwing the sensor in.

Thoughts? Has anyone else out there with a S/C tried this yet with negative results?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

The bosch sensors cost no more than 50bucks. Just a heads up.

If worried about heat... and still wanting to use whereever that location is... get one of the heatsink thingies sold for the o2 sensors.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

where does the JR header put it? I cant remember, I thought it was fairly low. I wouldn't worry about it.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

If you got the XD gauge, watch it after a boosted run for the overheat error code. E8 flashes I think (I've seen it before installing the heat sink). If not, install the LED somewhere and watch it to see if it reports an error code.

Another option is just hold off, since you're supposed to be ripping the SC out anyway.

B

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

on a standard gauge it will just show full rich and not output for a few second :gay:

emerilnut

The little lump after the junction of the cyl#2 and cyl#3 pipe is the bung. Is that far enough down you think?

LunaticDriver

that seems like a shitty spot to me due to the fact that it is only getting a read off cyl #2 and #3... like what if the other two are running like **** you'd never know... I might be 100% wrong t hough.

rappadan

iTrader: (2)

get it put in right at the collector. That should be right by the trans it it should be accessible or someone to get in there and weld in the bung.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Stan you might be able to drill out and weld a new bung in the side of the pipe, with the pipe still on the car.

I *may* get my rear swap done this weekend. If that happens, come by and we'll put your car in the air, and take care of it real quick. If you can weld, you can use the welder, or if you are brave you can let me try. Or we can just JB it into place.

I am up to something like 4 bungs welded on dp's now, but they were all off the car.

<-- expert bung welder

B

emerilnut

hmmm.. interesting offer. I have no problem with the welding part cuz I have a welder too... it's the taking-the-S/C-off-the-car-to-get-the header-out part that I'm not looking forward to. I'm not sure that we can weld this thing at the 9 o'clock position without taking the header out...

Don't you think I can use that original bung?? or do you think it's too close?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

It would probably work and be fine. The thing that bothers me is that the bung is positioned to only sniff what comes out of 2&3. Just seems to me that the average of all 4 cylinders would be a better reading.

That header goes all the way to the cat converter right? If so, there should be plenty of room to get a new bung on the driveshaft side of the pipe, with it still on the car. Won't be as easy as having the pipe on a workbench, but should be possible.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Does that mean you are also an "expert bung hole driller"?

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Just a note... ideal orientation for a wideband o2 sensor is 12oclock... or slight variation from that. It minimizes condensation in the sensor which can kill it quite fast.

LunaticDriver

Lc-1 booklet states anything from 9o clock to 3 o clock... 12o clock being the best.

that being said mine is at like 1:30 o clock

emerilnut

Yeah, orientation shouldn't be a problem. The fact that the bung can be seen on the photo from the side indicates that it's above 9 0'clock. Also, I've looked at it and it is so. The other thing is that it's on a downsloping part of the header so nothing could pool up there anyway by way of moisture.

I'm just worried about the heat not knowing what the EGT is for my car. I've heard that the upper bound for these sensors is around 900F.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

I need to know. Emerilnut, did you end up using the existing JR bung? If so, how did it work out for you? If not, were you able to install another one further back without removing the header?

I'm in the same situation you were in and was curious about your solution.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Way to search . Kudos to you.
However, I'm pretty sure that Stan's solution to the WB/SC conflict was to get a turbo. But I haven't seen the man in several months now, not sure if he went forward with the install or not.

soloracer

iTrader: (10)

I TRY to find existing info before asking dumb questions. Doesn't always stop the dumb questions though!

Could be he gave up on installing the WB first. I think as of April he was still on the SC though. Maybe he'll chime in if he hasn't dropped out....

I gotta say that JR bung IS in a stupid spot! I'm less worried about o2 sensor damage than I am about having meaningful input to the LC-1.